Thread: Delete ARV and IACV?

The DE has a screw, it's just hidden down below on the bottom left. Its sort of a PITA to adjust but once you get the hang of it its quick. I was also able to move my throttle cable to the back of the engine and re-adjust the tension without affecting my idle. Looks much cleaner!

Here's my hack job of a blockoff plate. It's down and dirty, but it does the job. Once I get back to milwaukee I can actually machine one that is nice =/. But for now this works, even if I do feel ashamed to post it after that nice one up there! =D Did not even take measurements, just pulled the IACV, traced a rectangle, and marked hole points with a hammer and nail lol... And no those holes are not open into the mani, there is a big foam gasket between it.

So I have a plan. I'm gonna modify the Chunk of metal that holds the IACV and all that jazz to do just one thing. To Control regular idle air inlet via Idle screw. This will be my base idle. 900-1000 RPM and I'll be happy. I bought a motorcycle Air Solenoid to replace the Air Regulator and I'm going to buy a small valve for my Cold start high Idle. This way I can wire in a switch in the Cabin and flip it on for 1st/cold start. It won't be seen and gives me complete control over idle. Once the parts come in I'll setup pictures. To help aid what I'm talking about.

Wtf Ben. I just started messing with mine today while I was fixing that coolant leak I told you about.

i must note that if you have a engine management system like aem or realtime, cracking the throttle plate screw to sustain a idle can cause a problems, i had a aac valve issue and i decided to crack the throttle plate to adjust the idle and i noticed for my particular application it cuased a decelleration problem , becuase the throtle wasnt completely closing causing the ecu to not compinsate the rich fuel before decel which caused me to have a hesitation on decel.

basicly when the throttle closes the ecu dumps some fuel before decel to smooth out the decel, well if you ecu cant see the throttle completely closed it doesnt dump the fuel before decel casuing a hesitiation issue.

now if you have a aem or reatime or other sort of aftermarket ecu you can adjust the ecu to see throttle closed at the particular ammount of throttle that is cracked open to sustain the idle this will fix that particular problem, if not then you might get stuck with this mod causing a hesitation issue.

just saying

My way should allow the Throttle to fully close. And arron and me do have a Calum RT. But I would also say that the easiest way to get over the little trouble you where talking about is to set your idle with the throttle plate then adjust your TPS to read like it was closed. That way when it closes it bumps a little fuel for decelerating. But like I said I will be basically converting the IACV to manual mode.

if you have an AEM EMS you can fully configure how it control the idle control valve. i have my setup so with the under drive pulleys and lightweight fly wheel the car idles alot cleaner with heavy accessory usage. there are a few tables to control this.

yea that is what can be done, i was just saying for someone to just crack the throttle without compinsating the tps % to the throttle closed, you could get this issue.

im still running a aac valve but thinking of doing away with it. the aem and the aac valve DO NOT get along that great, i have talked to the guy who tuned my car and he said that is really common in the aem and sr20det engines that he has dealt with, seems like its a battle for the idle as the aem wants to control it, then the aac valve has a mind of its own and struggles to compinsate well with the aem.

IMO the aac valve is really inefficent but its whatever

I can see why the Idle control is not that efficiant. I took some pic's and will share what I'm doing.

To control Air the ECU uses the IACV which consists of 2 valves plus the manual IDLE screw. Here I have taken and modified the IACV to have use of the OEM Idle Screw.




The ECU uses the AAC and FIDC valves to let more air in by pulsating them on and off. I took that out by removing the AAC and FIDC valve and plugging up the holes they use to let air in. if you just remove them then the holes would let to much air in and you couldn't use the Idle screw. I modified a exhaust stud to fit in the FIDC spot and the AAC I cut the plunger and stuffed it in the IACV and siliconed it all up

Ok but other than the IACV you have an air regulator. It's kinda controled by the ECU. It has a metal spring that opens the valve depending how cold it is. The ECU sends current through the spring once everything is warmed up to close the valve. That makes a total of 3 things that usually mess up and give erratic idle. So if your using some tuner program that can access all the ECU stuff cool but that don't mean it still can't mess up. I am deleting the IACV and the AIR REGULATOR. Since I don't have all my parts I used photo shop to get my point accross.

This is the stock way. Allthough I don't have the IACV in the right spot I hope you get the picture.



Air and all mediums travel in the path of least resistant. So since the AIR REGULATOR bypasses the IACV if that messes up then no matter how much you turn the idle screw or ecu closing the AAC and FIDC valves you will still get air in the manifold. If you're just doing a block off plate then cap these lines. If you just take out the AIR REG and run tube from port to port you'll let in a 1/2" hole of air into the Manifold. I'd say it would be like 1/8 to 1/4 throttle of air coming in the engine. Also If your using a block off plate you could just replace the AIR REG with a manual screw valve to control idle. Or if you decide to use a block off plate and crack the throttle plate then just cap all lines even from the intake tube. The Block off plate won't allow air into the manifold any more.

Ok so now what I'll be doing. I want a cold idle and a warmed up/normal idle. I'll use my modified IACV with the OEM idle screw to adjust for normal idle. Then I'll swap the AIR REG with a soleniod and Air Valve so I can adjust for a higher idle. Remember like I said Air travels the least resisatant. The solenoid is to block air flow when Off. When I turn it on it lets air through the adjusted air valve and ups the Idle.



I hope this all makes sense if not we can discuss it

Your pics just gave me a headache.

I'll change em out when the parts get here.