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Thread: Delete ARV and IACV?

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Posts: 41-50 of 72
2009-08-24 16:51:53
#41
this is how I would adjust idle with a block off plate. A valve where the ARV was.



Since I'm using the modified IACV though I just need to add the solenoid and I'll have two idle settings.
2009-08-24 17:03:44
#42
That valve would be a major pita to get to. I'll either use the screw or the cable lol.
2009-08-24 17:27:49
#43
^ i like the way you used a aac valved and just modified it, that seems like a pretty easy way to use it as a block off
2009-08-24 18:25:41
#44
yep I used a small hack saw, some aluminum I had sitting around and some high temp rtv. Should work great and i'll be able to use the idle screw which is what I was going for.

as long as these 2 ports are blocked (along with the obvious exterior) should work fine.
2009-08-25 04:25:22
#45
i am using a VE that has a cold idle the actualy forces open the tb plate when its cold and i have no issues.my cold tps is .65v and fully warmed its .52v.i have my idle value set for tps value of 3% or less.for the aicv i just turned the fans on and the headlights and did the idle setup like in the guide and car sits between 5+ or minus on the learned value depending on if the lights are on/off with the fans. now the ve doesnt have a air regulator that may be part of the issue with the ems or stock setups.
2009-08-25 23:56:26
#46
Ok I blocked off the ARV lines, and used the plate for the IACV spot. That does NOT work lol. The car will only idle somewhat normal once it's actually warm. Otherwise when you start it it'll idle for a second and then just quit. Only way it will idle with things this way is if I set the idle well over 1k rpms.
2009-08-26 05:10:47
#47
Originally Posted by GT2871RBLUBIRD
i must note that if you have a engine management system like aem or realtime, cracking the throttle plate screw to sustain a idle can cause a problems, i had a aac valve issue and i decided to crack the throttle plate to adjust the idle and i noticed for my particular application it cuased a decelleration problem , becuase the throtle wasnt completely closing causing the ecu to not compinsate the rich fuel before decel which caused me to have a hesitation on decel.

basicly when the throttle closes the ecu dumps some fuel before decel to smooth out the decel, well if you ecu cant see the throttle completely closed it doesnt dump the fuel before decel casuing a hesitiation issue.

now if you have a aem or reatime or other sort of aftermarket ecu you can adjust the ecu to see throttle closed at the particular ammount of throttle that is cracked open to sustain the idle this will fix that particular problem, if not then you might get stuck with this mod causing a hesitation issue.

just saying


In theory, you could re adjust your TPS sensor to account for this, no?
2009-08-26 05:12:34
#48
Originally Posted by AaroNX
Ok I blocked off the ARV lines, and used the plate for the IACV spot. That does NOT work lol. The car will only idle somewhat normal once it's actually warm. Otherwise when you start it it'll idle for a second and then just quit. Only way it will idle with things this way is if I set the idle well over 1k rpms.


Yea, mine idles at around 1200 right now warm I think. That is about as low as I can go without stalling on cold start, but I don't mind. There's no huge advantage to having a slightly lower idle anyways other than a tiny but improved MPG city.
2009-08-26 09:04:26
#49
yes basicly trick the tps to think that with the throttle crakced xx% that its actually closed, this will solve the problem
2009-08-26 12:34:52
#50
nothing like the drone of 1200rpm of a (NA in Aarons case) car with 3" exhaust. This is the reason I'm doing the two idle settings. although I don't understand some of the issues me and Aaron where talkling about earlier last night. He was still getting vacuum out of the IACV feed with the IACV block off plate and ARV capped. i'll look at my manifold to see whats up. Wish we didn't live so far off. lol
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