Thread: Delete ARV and IACV?

this prob causes a CEL right? If so I can't do it. I gotta pass emissions here.

I don't think it causes a CEL. It will throw you a code though I think.

I didn't realize (or think about) just opening the throttle plate. I have a hand valve setup running to PCV inlet on mine which works just great, but I might have to try using the throttle instead. I will do tomorrow.

On a side note, the blockoff plate is incredibly easy to make. Just pull the IACV assembly off and map out the bolt holes on steel sheet metal. Then just cut whatever shape you want that covers the air holes, stick a rubber gasket sheet in between and bolt it on. I am planning to make an actual thick one out of an aluminum plate soon, but the sheet metal does do the trick.

The biggest PITA is getting the air regulator out I think. =)

Edit: Here's a pic of my current setup. Look up and right and you'll see the hand valve and line.

i like the hand valve idea because you could adjust it easier for cold weather and stuff.

You'd need a block off plate for the IACV. AAC (under the manifold) can just be removed and the ports blocked off, or connected together.



When Alex would start his car, it wouldn't hunt for idle, or idle high if that's what you're asking. It would fire up and sit right at 1000~1100rpm. Pretty rock solid, too.



Nope, no CEL.

think this will be my next mod while saving up for engine parts. I'll make 2 block off plates cause I bet Aaron wants one. Will modify my harness too since I'm doing a tuck. I'm guessing us with real time won't be able to control idle with the ECU any more though.

Nope =)

But a manual idle is better anyways unless you have a really good computer controlled valve. Will be easier to keep solid and after warm up it won't run any worse than a normal idle valve.

finito... is that how you spell it. lol Now where's the RTV??????

Damn that was fast

You got it man!

but how is the cold starts without these?

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