Thread: I pulled the motor... Now what???

(I dont know if this is the correct section or not, so mods please feel free to move it)

Ok guys, this all started out as a simple SR20 T3/4 Turbo project.. Swap some low boost parts on and see how she runs...

Like so:



That was day 1.. Now heres day 3:



So needless to say its gone beyond a simple install. I want some input on what to do when its out. Im already replacing the 2 IM gaskets, Lower Oil Pan gasket (is there a upper oil pan gasket? autozone couldnt find it), Head gasket, TB gasket....
Im going to be running a Vaccume log and all my vaccume lines are getting replaced, Im installing a set of 440 injectors, replacing my clutch/flywheel/Throw out bearing + main rear seal....

Im planning on cleaning the block, and engine bay as well as paint the engine bay black. Im also going to install a complete set of ES MMI's when i do the reinstall.

I am wondering what else I should do when the motor is pulled.. I really dont have a time frame for it. I expect it to be out for atleast a month or so.


Also a few re-install questions. To get the motor out we took it out the bottom. Im going to reinstall through the top with a lift. Can I install the IM, compressor, turbo manifold and transmission and drop it all in the car and just connect the wires and lines, or will it not all fit?

Thanks!!!! Ill be using this thread to post questions I have about the project.. Thanks for your help!

your on the right track, i would replace all the gasket,s depending on the mileage of the engine the water pump, examine the oil pump, basicly look over all parts that would be a PITA to replace when the engine is in the car.

Humm good point.. About the head gasket... Whats the easiest way to replace it. Im going to have to remove the upper and lower oil pans to do the main rear seal and to tap for oil return..

Any tips?

connect the harness before you put it in the car and go through the bottom again. To do the headgasket you have to take the head off(not for you judging by your questions IMO)

Neither oil pan has a gasket just rtv

I left the both manifolds (intake and exhaust) on to put the motor in.

whats up bud
the lower and upper oil pan gaskets are grey rtv, dont use any rubber or cork gasket from the stores, most oil pans are bent up and pretty much need the custom rtv
the rear main seal is right behind the flywheel, i dont know if you took the old one out but you saw my thread about the new one being half its size so dont get scared lol
other quick things
torque flywheel to 65lbs and use red loctite
pressure plate bolts to 10lbs and then again to 20lbs
thats most of the things i ended up searching so hopefully it helps you out man.
I just got done putting my motor back together, and hopefully it'll be going in the car tomorrow then i begin my short wiring tuck

suggest having everything on the motor assembled.. its alot easier to just worry about mount placement then hardcore angles on which to connect the intake manifold

yea dont use loctite on flywheel.. thats not good.. maybe its good for him but no mechanic in there right mind would do that unless there tards.
duesmandella.. again dont get offended but no if it doesnt come from factory that way.. its for a reason.

lol im not offended, but im more from the spec v world where if your not using red loctite your flywheel could come off. Not only that but even the person that had my motor before me had loctite on it. Id rather be safe than sorry, call me a tard all you want im not worrying about **** backing out

Good advice....putting the harness on the engine first saves a bunch of headaches.
Through the bottom FTW
Go prothane mounts ,not ES

If you have a flywheel bolt back out you did something wrong. The only thing I use locktite on is the TB screws and thats it. Locktite isnt recomended for anything on these cars, sure you can use it on yours but dont tell other people to use it.
Here are the tourque specs for a clutch install:
1) PP bolts. (6-12mm 16-22 ft/lbs)
2) Trans bolts. (6-17mm 51-59 ft/lbs, 5-14mm 22-30 ft/lbs)
3) Pass axle Bolts. (3 just tighten it reasonably)
4) Axle Nuts. (2-32mm 145-203 ft/lbs)
5) Strut Bolts (4-17mm 72-98 ft/lbs).
6) Shift Linkage Bolt (1 120-156 in/lbs at tranny, 156-204 in/lbs at shifter)
7) Trans Mount Bolts (3-14mm just tighten it reasonably)
8) Starter Bolts (2-14mm just tighten it reasonably)
9) flywheel to crank is 65

If i feel that its the safe thing to do im going to tell someone. The original poster knows about the spec v instances where flywheels were backing out, it didnt happen to one random person doing his first flywheel, its happened to alot of people.
I didnt know it doesnt happen with sr20's but i wasnt taking that chance.
Its only loctite, your not cementing the bolts in there