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Thread: MAJOR sludge problem!!! Need help!

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Posts: 21-30 of 41
2009-08-02 22:08:08
#21
Originally Posted by Vadim
Alright yours doesn't look as crusty as mine was.

First thing, if you just bought it, take it back. That's about a dead engine.

Here is the problem, if you have chunks of sludge, anything you use to disolve sludge might break it away. Then that chunk can clog up oil pickup, oil pump, and bunch of good stuff.

I personally used 1qt of ATF and 2.8/3 qt of regular oil, that helped clean it up a bit. Thanks to Miko for that suggestion.

I have used Auto-RX, but it did not do too well in my motor. Mainly because my seals were leaky, thus it would leak out before doing any good. Thus I wasted a good $50 om Auto-RX.

You have to be careful with Amsoil. For two reasons, expect your seals to be bad and starting to leak. If Amsoil is too thin, it will leak out, just like synthetic did in my sludge monster. Another thing is, if you can't mix Amsoil with regular oil, then you may have a problem with foaming, etc. Since you have plenty of sludge that's made from regular oil.

Like I said return it if you can, otherwise expect a motor that will always have problems. Taking the motor apart and soaking it in diesel can help.

You can also try doing diesel flushes. Basically fill the car with 4qt of diesel, and run the motor for no longer then 10 minutes. Flush it out, maybe do it once every oil change. Problem with diesel though, you might eat your seals away, which need replacing anyway.

With any flushes, you will need to drop the oil pan, and remove oil pick up filter and clean it. Otherwise it will block the net, and oil PSI will drop.

Start changing the oil often, I did around 1k intervals, thus I used the cheapest oil possible. Even with that my car still pulled 125whp with intake cam and pop charger haha.


Be ready to replace the following parts:
- Timing Chain Tensioner, my motor killed 2 of them. Sludge gets into the oil holes, thus they either stay opened or closed all the time
- Oil pressure sensor is a goner most likely, luckily they are like $10
- Expect your front main and rear main seals to be gone
- PCV valve is probably sludged open or shut
- Replace oil squierters, they are a pain to clean and even then mine still got clogged. Remember how I said about chunks of sludge floating around?

Marvel's Mystery oil increased my oil consumption majorly, stay away.

Expect your injectors to be gone, mine were covered in sludge, my cylinders were leaking through piston rings and causing a lot of blow by, thus constant oil build up through PCV and valve cover breather.

If you want pictures, I can post them up, but like I said, if you can get another engine!



Dude my car runs great and didn't look anything like yours. My compression is 270psi across the board. I also did a leak down test and passed with flying colors and the the motor pulls VERY strong. My oil pan was dropped and repaced because it was dented and guess what ....NO sludge!

My pvc valve is fine, my injectors were perfect(no buildup or sludge), my intake manifold was fine, etc....Just because you had a bad experience doesn't mean everybody will. I also have no oil loss whatsoever and the car pulls like a healthy VE should just ask Jonathon(board member), so again I think my situation isn't even comparable to yours.

If I am wrong I will let you know.

btw its a VE not a DE, I know that doesn't make a difference, but just thought I would throw that out there.
2009-08-02 22:20:09
#22
270 is very high for comp #s! You may have gunked up cylinders but don't run the Gunk stuff. That stuff is crap. Definitely make sure to clean the screen for the oil pickup, and I hope you have an oil pressure gauge installed.

Honestly I don't think your motor looks too bad but don't use M-1 for 1k change intervals. Use the cheap stuff like quaker state high mile or valvoline. Otherwise tis money down the drain.
2009-08-02 22:24:03
#23
Just sharing some experience, I was very hesitent to replace the engine due to lack of tools/space/money. So until I got around to have the space and money, I tried just about everything to save the engine.

Yours doesn't seem as bad, but I'm just trying to help you save some money and avoid the steps don't really work.

Gunk stuff probably wont work too well. Your best bet is Auto-RX or the cheaper ATF alternative
2009-08-02 22:27:19
#24
Originally Posted by Benito
270 is very high for comp #s! You may have gunked up cylinders but don't run the Gunk stuff. That stuff is crap. Definitely make sure to clean the screen for the oil pickup, and I hope you have an oil pressure gauge installed.

Honestly I don't think your motor looks too bad but don't use M-1 for 1k change intervals. Use the cheap stuff like quaker state high mile or valvoline. Otherwise tis money down the drain.



I thought 270-280psi was usual for a VE?? Anyway money isn't a problem because I get m-1 for like nothing, so its not a big deal.

Now your saying I shouldn't try the gunk for a twenty minute idle then drain and put in some new oil and filter? I mean it really shouldnt hurt?? So your saying just change the oil every 1K miles and see if it gets better??

I definitey will be taking the pan off to take a look.
2009-08-02 22:29:26
#25
Originally Posted by Vadim
Just sharing some experience, I was very hesitent to replace the engine due to lack of tools/space/money. So until I got around to have the space and money, I tried just about everything to save the engine.

Yours doesn't seem as bad, but I'm just trying to help you save some money and avoid the steps don't really work.

Gunk stuff probably wont work too well. Your best bet is Auto-RX or the cheaper ATF alternative



THanks for the advice. It was either the gunk engine sludge cleaner or seafoam.......I picked the one that said for removal of engine sludge
2009-08-02 22:36:26
#26
Originally Posted by jonwepa
I thought 270-280psi was usual for a VE?? Anyway money isn't a problem because I get m-1 for like nothing, so its not a big deal.

Now your saying I shouldn't try the gunk for a twenty minute idle then drain and put in some new oil and filter? I mean it really shouldnt hurt?? So your saying just change the oil every 1K miles and see if it gets better??

I definitey will be taking the pan off to take a look.


Good; If I were you I would not spend money on M1 for short OCIs. It won't do you any better. Throwing money away is never good.

I'd spend the money on auto-rx or amsoil flush. Return that gunk for a few qts of whatever 10w-30 is on sale.

270 is very high for VE. Factory spec is like 210 iirc. Mine read 235-240 across the board and I thought it was high. When I tore it down it had some caked on stuff in the head and on pistons. That's what I attribute those high comp #s to.
2009-08-02 22:42:04
#27
yeah IF you can return it like Vadim said i would. Otherwise your best bet is 3 parts oil & 1 part ATF AND i would chnge the oil using dino oil every 1k miles.



also be weary of that oil pick up, i would make sure that strainer isn't clogged, otherwise clack clack clack ...
2009-08-02 22:59:52
#28
My old DE looked just as bad. Never gave any problems I just changed the oil very frequently and it helped alot most of the sludge went away after about a year and half. I constantly abused it without a hiccup. I don't like using engine flushes because there is only one place where the chunks would go, to your oil pickup and may clog.
2009-08-02 23:02:05
#29
Originally Posted by Benito
Good; If I were you I would not spend money on M1 for short OCIs. It won't do you any better. Throwing money away is never good.

I'd spend the money on auto-rx or amsoil flush. Return that gunk for a few qts of whatever 10w-30 is on sale.

270 is very high for VE. Factory spec is like 210 iirc. Mine read 235-240 across the board and I thought it was high. When I tore it down it had some caked on stuff in the head and on pistons. That's what I attribute those high comp #s to.


I am ordering amsoil flush as we speak and from what I just read the compression should be around 225-230psi. Maybe mine was so high because of the gunk....anyway I am not trying to return the motor because it runs well and I mean really well. I will check thepan now when i change the oil and see if there is anything in the pick up, but like I said before it doesn't seem to be gunked up anywhere else except the head. I dropped the pan before because when I got it it was leaking and the screen was as clear as it could be.

I will keep you all updated!
2009-08-02 23:13:08
#30
Originally Posted by jonwepa
I am ordering amsoil flush as we speak and from what I just read the compression should be around 225-230psi. Maybe mine was so high because of the gunk....anyway I am not trying to return the motor because it runs well and I mean really well. I will check thepan now when i change the oil and see if there is anything in the pick up, but like I said before it doesn't seem to be gunked up anywhere else except the head. I dropped the pan before because when I got it it was leaking and the screen was as clear as it could be.

I will keep you all updated!


Dude mine ran great too. I tore it down for fun really when I went for boost. I wouldn't worry about it but a good flush will help imo. Don't worry though.
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