Thread: Other performance oils ....

is the 0w-30 the authentic german oil? or?

yup bottles still say made in germany.

man this has already been discuss. theres like a 20 page thread about this on the sr20 convention section and several other sections..

You have to look on back of the bottle. It says "Made in Germany". The GC is only available in the 0-30 weight afaik.

I'm going to use the 5-40 Shell Rotella.

thats what i use^

imo oil really isnt oil, esp when you have alot of money in your setup then a oil becomes a cruial part of your car. eneos makes 0w50 for all out turbo applications.

the other post about oil is really vauge, some ppl have stock setup run this oil, but he is asking what to use in a high performance high output engine, what oil would be best for that.

in the other post you just have ppl chiming in who could just have your basic sr20de that really doesnt suffice the need to know as far as what performance oil is good when they might not have a performance engine

my local tuner raves about the eneos and they do alot of their oil changes with the stuff, ive used it but i am partial to amsoil so its hard to say one from another

Redline is not very common overhere in The Netherlands. However, I get just standard gearbox oil, not too expensive and add a sillicone based tube of stuff in it, this stuff will create a film over all moving parts. After about 1500 miles it starts getting noticable. A lot of resistance is removed and shifting even gets better. Also the clunk/not in reverse problem can go away for the biggest part.

Now I'm no circuit racer and after chaning gear oil, I never managed to get so much miles on it it had to be replaced again, but this stuff kept me going for atleast 40k miles, after that idk.

For motor oil, I've used El Cheapo's and thats good oil for oil consuming engines like a quart per few k miles, by refilling it you keep the oil good enough anyway and the engine is about to get toast, so who cares.

El Cheapo oil really does make your fuel economy suffer after 3k miles on a good engine. It also makes more noise after 8k miles so it really is crap. However this oil also conforms to standards like SAE or DOT etc etc. Its all on the bottle.

But the better oil has certain additives like more graphite which makes sure, in case of metal on metal, not the engine starts wearing but eats a little graphite. Cheap oils usuaully run out of graphite before the change interval occurs.

Of course there are a lot of other additives just like in petrol and those idk what they do with it.

But I was using Penzoil for several years and it really is good oil. Somehow my trustworthy garage doesn't run Penzoil no more so I went with their Elf oil. Elf is really good stuff, it makes the engine rev more happily and even one of my cars that was sitting for 2 weeks still has a noticable nice rev in it, which I don't have in my other Nx.. That Nx got his oil changed after 5 years of standing still and I can be pretty sure it was cheap oil. So I'll be planning that to switch after 3k miles.

I also heard more then once irl, Mobile 1 is very good oil. But I have no first hand experience with it.

I wouldn't go for magic oil with a steep price, I would be getting a well known brand. Atleast there is a brand on that oil, which means the maker has every reason to do it right. And it's true, what's used in Formula 1 cars, is good for our engines too.

There are few other good brands common in Europe but I don't seem to remember those brands atm.

No sorry I don't mean oil is oil in general. I meant oil is oil as in that 5w40 M-1 for turbo diesels should work in my SE-R w/ GTiR setup. But i am still unsure. I always have used Amsoil and GC since M-1 changed a few years back. One time I used Royal Purple in my VE and it burned through a lot of it.

I wasn't referring to what u said Benito.

Oil is oil. It's just that I love my car or else I would throw the $15 per can 15W40 in it instead of the $28 10W40. But the latter oil I throw in **** cars like 1.1 liters 60HP beercans, though some of my American friends consider my Nx2000 to be a beercan.

So, a 7.5k rpm revving engine, is it wise to put in El cheap oil and expect to last it till the next interval and preferable a few k over it? I think not. I can't say for sure this will wear out the engine sooner and lead right foot also makes a difference, also running crap gas or something decent makes a difference.

But I never saw my car hitting 300k miles because the first one rusted away, the second one got sold, the 3rd one was rusted beyond repair when I bought it (I was stupid then) and got scrapped after 3 years, the 4th one got totaled 6 weeks ago and the 5th, thats the car I'm driving now and that one got it's whole interrior removed and I removed the rust from the inside (Nx can rust pretty well inside) I'll be happily driving another 3 years without fear till I believe it's time to get the interriour out again just to check for rust. The outside also will be worked on rust prevention. But to give you an idea, the inside took me 3 full days. I expect another 3 days for the outside.

I got pics for those who are interested.

But for the oil, I can understand since Im no Turbo guy, that 5W30 or something like that is better, I really don't know what holds here.

So I stick with the 10W40 thats appropiate for my car and environment, but the FSM also says what oil to use where. So the same car gets different oil like in the Sahara they get different oil.

I'm 100% sure there is difference in quality between dino oil so cruel Brent is couple of bucks cheaper then top oil from Saudi Arabia. I expect American oil is also a couple of bucks cheaper per barrel. But I'm not sure.

The best oil comes from the Middle East so for dyno oil u might want to get some far away brand, just by pouring it in, sticking your fingers in it and rubbing them you can see/feel difference

But they all sell synthic oil, sooooo how the f-word they make synthetic oil? From what? dyno oil? Isn't synthetic oil bullcrap? When we can get synthetic food we all go like eew but when synthetic oil, we all tell each other it's way better then dyno oil.

So first, I believe, but have not yet found proof for it, that running 15W40 in a car that wants 10W40 is ok and u can rev it like mad there is no difference. But why I didnt test it, because I know for sure any car will last a long time on 15W40 if it wants 10W40.

On the other hand my max. driving in a second hand car was 60k miles so actually putting good/better oil in it has no real use.

But finally I vouch that Elf oil really gives better performance and I would say this can be proven on the dyno, but of course I never did, coz I can't get dyno runs for free.

But for people that use their cars just for mileage, I wonder if the extra cost of a 'sure bet' oil which is like an extra 40 bucks will save them that amount of money the next 10k miles.

I think not, so those ppl should get the best 'cheap' oil and be sure to service on time. And yes, bad oil/low oil level are audbile and can be felt at WOT.

For the enthusiasts, get something decent, overhere thats Elf I can assure and I compare the increase in performance (not taking in account the old worn out oil against fresh oil) like putting a replacement K&N or a performance muffler in it (a performance muffler not a ghetto straight thru gutted type)

It just makes the car rev more easy, makes it more racey and together with a CAI, muffler and some good sparkplugs and the good oil, u get a race version of your standard car. Consider this same HP but more torque and some more fun thats for sure. Sorry for the bad explanation. But like Benito said when u go turbo or otherwise go give hell to the engine, better use a hell of an oil.

Why I'm saying all this? Because of those mere 3HP? I'm afraid yes. I owned carb version of Nx1600 which is rated at 90HP. Then I got injection version which is rated 102HP, and that car had crap paper filter, crap oil, probably used up, crap oil filter and not the original Nissan, wrong sparks, ghetto muffler and no adjusted ignition timing.

After fixing that, using Elf like oil, K&N drop in replacement, original oil filter, proper sparks, proper Sebring muffler which is ****ing expensive, also gearbox additive like I said in the post before, injector cleaner, 98 fuel instead of 95 fuel, new dizzy and cap, it finally went from 1:12,5 to 1:14 (l/km) and was notciably 10HP faster then then carb version.

So all in all if u gonna put some headers on it or do more rigourous mods, better keep the car tuned pretty good or else u be losing out.

Now I wish I had access to a dyno just to see how mucht HP my car put out when I bought it and how much a year later, doing all I just said here and driving it properly instead of monkeying it.

Ok, getting the right sparkplugs and filters yourself and experiment with oil for over 10 years because u feel ripped off all the time is my fun, so ditching the car to some service garage almost for sure won't give u the best parts, just all the parts that are OE and some of em better. I always shop around for lowest price but for oil and filter, I prefer the more epxensive solution. And for your paper filter drivers, stock some of em for those 5 bucks a piece and swap em when u think your car starts acting up at certain rpm or act weird after 3k miles.

If that doesn't help, finally swap those spark plugs, replace the coil cable too bc it's $2 anyway and a usual culprit and check your coil. Also look in to ignition timing and crank anlge position sensor. Also use some proper gas.

Ok, I understand adding some cams is easier and gives instant HP, but consider this post to get it smooth again and not for huge HP, huge HP means Turbo. That will be my next car, first I learn the **** out of the SR20DE before smacking a T on it.