Thread: Head gasket residue removal

What do you guys use to remove the residue from your head gaskets? I ask this because every time I ask someone about how to get it off a head they say brink it to a machine shop. I am convinced that it does not have to be milled to get a clean surface. Hollar at me.

I would try using a razor. Be very careful not to scratch the surface though.

Gl homie.

Dudeman

yea but the razor doesn't get it all off there is always that lil bit that you don't want to press xtra hard on the razor because you know you'll gouge the surface. Is there a liquid that will melt it all off and leave a lack luster shine?

i would have the head milled especially if youre doing a replacement due to an HG failure either way the aluminum warps from heat ever so slightly ...its just safe insurance and i think its like $30 to get it milled

just my .02...goo gone might work as well

I used goo gone before it did not seem strong enough, Is there anything else you would use? What about aircraft remover has anyone tried that stuff before. I hear that stuff is real toxic. You have to use dish washer gloves when using it.

I always used a combination of brake clean and elbow grease.

Agreed. The reason you take it to a machine shop is to make sure the mating surfaces for the head gasket are perfectly flat. Not to remove the old crap

I've always used a nylon brush/disk on my 90* die grinder. The nylon won't scratch the block, but removes all the old material in under 10 min easily. If you have an angle die grinder I would not hesitate to do that.

That's exactly what I did and it came out mint. Screw razors and stuff that takes forever and will never get it off. Just use the softest pad that gets it off and your good to go.

ive used both the nylon brush on a drill and a wire brush on my drill, if you are gentle the wire brush works great, Of course it will have microscopic scratches on the deck but nothing to be worried about. Ive done this every single time and never ever had a problem with headgasket failure because of it.

Now that is technically not the proper way to do it. If you want to do it perfect take the head and block to the machine shop. The nylon works great as well but i dont usually have that on hand. The nylon takes a bit longer to get the material off but it does come out a bit smoother.

i would not hesitate at all to use the nylon or wire brush on a drill. Again ive done too many to count on all different types of vehicles and never had one fail.