Thread: CA Smog Failed

I've passed with the current header on for the pass 6+ years.
It's just now that I'm having trouble with the high NOx. Hopefully
it's the EGR since it has never been cleaned out before.

Probably the most common point of failure WRT EGR is a clog in the metal tube that runs from the header up to the intake manifold where a smaller tube continues up toward the BPT valve. This is what activates the EGR and it has a section near the juncture of the large and small tubes that is constricted.

You will see a rubber hose that comes from the smaller tube up to the BPT valve. With the engine off, remove that rubber tube and replace it with a longer one so that you can blow into it to see if the pipe is clear. If there is any resistance, you probably need to clean the upper portion of the metal tube. In most cases this will require you to disconnect the metal tube from the header and the manifold and rotate it so that you can (barely) see the constricted part where the smaller tube comes out at the top. Clear out any plug with a dental pick and use pipe cleaners and carb cleaner on the rest of the small tube.

This happens more on B13s but I'm suspecting that you could have a similar issue.

If this doesn't get you past the test, here is something else that might help. A free flowing exhaust messes with the pressure in the EGR control tubes and can interfere with proper EGR activation. Some forum members have had success with placing a restrictor plate in the exhaust after the cat that has a one inch hole in it to increase back pressure. Just fashion something out of metal plate and use it like a gasket to pass the test, then remove it.

^ Well I still have my stock exhaust, so could I just slap that back on for the test?!

Re: temp gauge. I don't think this is the problem but my SE-R 97, ran cold with the original thermostat, and took a long while to warm up when cold out.
Replaced the thermostat and helped warm up a lot, runs hotter in traffic ie normal !!.
If you have not replaced it, its due anyway.
I suspect this will help HC more than NOX.

13* is good.

When I failed I was using 89 octane. If I were to lower my timing to 13* and used 91
octane would that help lower my NOx ?!

Without a doubt. If the engine pings, the nox level will skyrocket.

Quick question but will they fail me if they notice I lower my timing to 13* ?
Or is there a certain range that the timing could be set at in CA ?

I think that you are OK. The factory spec is 15 plus or minus 2, so 13 is within spec. I can't see them checking it anyway, but I've never tested in the Republic of California.

In the Republic of California, they do check your timing that"s why I recommend 13*. Sometime if you are lucky, you will get a lazy smog tech that won't check it.

Like Billc said, the factory spec is +-2* from 15*.