Thread: abnormal front motor mount

A little messy but it did the trick!!

LOL!

This kind of solutions I like most.

I looked at your build thread and you have 2 resonators. Does your friend's car have 2 resonators or any resonators? I heard the Vibrant mufflers are pretty quiet but you have to admit the 2 resonator situation is a little unorthodox to compare to something else.

-G

you say the vibrant muffler is quiet compared to your friends but the set ups are different ie. 2.5" vs. 3", my car just like your friends is a DE and mine has a 2.5" magnaflow vrs exhaust and no resonators so it is loud, I need to make it quieter but I rather not sacrifice the cat for a 5" resonator which is what I see most people do around here, I was leaving the fireworks tonight in cityplace and I was glad I brought the SR20 200sx everyone was going slow and somehow I found an opening, laid down the gas and got out of there quick, I just dont like how the car pulls to the right when heavy accelerating but Im thinking thats the motor mount causing that

they are not the same so you will be wasting your time, you go cheap the first time it will cost you more money down the road

Tearoffguy is who I am talking about...He has a de with 2.5 vrs/magnaflow catback.It was too loud with the resonator from vrs.He had the cat removed,and put a 36" glasspack on.That quieted it down alot!!




If you are gonna heep you cat,just add as big of a res as possible,and go to a Vibrant muffler.The magnaflow mufflers are just too loud in my opinion.


If you guy have any more questions about my exhaust,please pm me or post in my build thread.I hate to threadjack this guys thread
Back on topic....sorry to get off topic.

For the mounts...If you want a cheap fix,3m window urethane will fix them up,and the stuff is black so it wont stand out as much as the white construction adhesive.(although I am sure it works,too.)

•to replace motor mounts, they are unbolted and the engine is raised off them. you can use a Mobile Crane (cherry picker) to lift the engine. the mount is replaced with a new one.
•Install the engine mount bolts loosely on the block. Leave them loose during engine installation so that the mounts can be more easily aligned with the frame mount brackets.
•a Rolling Head Prybar is handy when aligning mounts. use the pointed end to line up the mount bolt holes before installing the mount bolts.
•Do not use the engine mount bolts to pull a V-type engine into place. Use shims if necessary to fill any gaps between the mount and block. The Automotive Engine Rebuilders Association reports numerous cases of block distortion resulting in scuffed pistons in cylinders, near mount that were forced tight.

that is off of the autozone website at

AutoZone.com | Product & HowTo Info | | | REPLACE

Well, you can trust us. I've had an SR20 since 91, and I've never heard of this happening to an SR20, even with a solid dogbone mount.

You need to remember, those warnings are for engines in general, so it may not apply to all engines, or at varying rates.

You know, I reread that part you posted from Autozone. It is referring to the torque you use when you torque down the bolt.

It is also warning against torquing down when the engine is still misaligned. (which is why it mentions shims)

I don't think this has anything to do with the stiffness of the mount.

.....and we dont have a "v-type" engine^^^