Thread: SIGNS OF A BAD MAF sensor

true, but this was a nissan dealership with consult II, and they are reputable for being a very good dealer, so not all professionals are shady, they simply advised the solution they could without spending as much time as I did on the car. any shop that's based on a per hour labour rate will not tackle electrical without telling you it's gonig to be a $500 bill for the 8 hours it takes to do the job.
I'm simply saying that not all pro's are shady, but not all can narrow down the problem in a reasonable amount of time.

its stick with a vvl engine and ve 333 injectors.

checked fuel rail and all injectors and spraying, im thinking the distributor i put was bad too, i ended up putting my old one back i also tested it on my brothers car and it worked fine, so car is back to normal but its still shutting off and its hard to crank it because it wont stay on and just die, if i try it later it will start fine again but when im driving or a stop it will die. Checked my wires from the maf and theyre all good.

im about to give up now, one last ? im getting 12v from the 12 volt wire, but im just getting .1 volts on the signal wire shouldnt that be 5 volts coming of that wire? Im also gettin a reading of 1.14 v from the maf.

heres a video

seems to me that your maf sensor is working properly. At idle you'll hover around 1.4v from my experience and progressively get higher as you increase throttle. Hence the 5v, that is max.

Now, if you've replace the dizzy and are still having the same problems it's more than likely not your dizzy either that is causing problems even though you may have codes popping up left and right for it along with other things. Maybe o2, and evap. but just because it throws the code doesn't always mean it's right.

So, I'll tell you what someone told me...change your eccs relay and be done with it.
Here's some threads I started they may help a little. I'll even give you some pointers on the part #'s the right number is NOT 25230-79981, even though the idiots at nissan may give you that #. The relay you need is 25230-79971. I'd start there after hearing everything you've said.

http://www.sr20nation.com/showthread.php?t=217
http://www.sr20-forum.com/turbo/20192-more-det-problems.html

Oh, and PS, a great way to check your injectors is run two wires off of a 9 volt battery and touch one to each terminal on your injectors and listen for the click...you'll know if they're working that way rather than pulling the fuel rail and all that jazz.

Bump for this, I'm having the same issue with my VVL, I was getting a code for the coolant temp sensor, changed it and I'm still getting the code. In the middle of all this, one of my injectors was stuck open, changed it, thought it would fix the problem, nada.
My symptoms are similar to yours, car runs fine 95% of the time, then bam all of a sudden, idle acts weird, horrible throttle response, then sometimes, car just stalls, won't restart until I keep cranking off and on for 2 to 3 minutes, sucks a$$ in rush hour traffic with cars honking at you.
We gotta get to the bottom of this. Seems like a lot of people are having this problem with no solution.
I wanna check the continuity on the ECU. Any help to get me started?
I feel your pain bro >:I