BenFenner: The direct ignition is stock Maxima coils. They have 3 leads, +12V from the ignition switch, ground from the chassis, and then a signal coming off the AEM. The coil packs look fine, I've blown coils early on because of a short, the result would be a big bulge in the plastic casing. I can almost eliminate the coil packs themselves.
HKS, The standalone is completely independent in every way to the rest of the wiring. I cal literally disconnect every sensor and pull the EMS in about 10 minutes.
squabzter: I'm getting a feeling you may be right, about the cam sensor, actually, I'm hoping it's wiring or a cam sensor, I'm getting a worse feeling about the timing. It wouldn't be an individual coil, the V6 can run on as little as 3 cylinders, I've seen it. All 6 plugs/coils are having erratic spark patterns.
Coheed: answer above.
Phatsomax: thanks for joining to help. I'm starting to get the feeling you're right, but I'm hoping you're wrong. If I jumped the timing chain, dropping this engine is nearly impossible. It's wedged in there like canned tuna.
Still, if I were off, a little, wouldn't I still be able to start? I've been off a tooth before on my first SR20, the car still ran decent. And if I were off a lot, I'd imagine I'd have compression problems or bent valves.
I imagine the UDP is like the chain tensioner, and I don't know the CKPS/CPS means. The AEM still utilizes the VTCS solenoids so I still have a variable timing map built in. Also, I'm using a MAP system. The MAP is a 1bar GM MAP sensor.
Topdog:
The Portal
Nismo87: Can't use a timing light without the engine turning over, even so, I'm not sure if the induction sensor would pick up the signal from a direct coil.
squabzter: If the timing was off before this incident, I didn't notice a thing, the engine makes ~300hp/tq at the crank. My last dyno was 260/260 at the wheels. Never mis-shifted or over-revved. I would know, because that's how my VVL bit the dust. For the record, my compression was around 200psi in every cylinder (all plugs out, plenum removed, 10 cranks)
I'm praying a rewire will solve the issue. If not, I'll remove the valve covers to see how the cam pick-ups/sensors are doing. Worst case, the engine has to come down and I have to break into the timing cover.
If that happens, I may just do a cam swap while I'm at it. I never, ever, ever, ever, ever, want to have to drop this engine. The exhaust is routed in such a way that there are no flanges. The headers are welded together at the y-pipe merge. Removing the engine requires me to cut the exhaust.