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Thread: A/C button no longer turns on compressor. Ideas?

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Posts: 11-20 of 47
2009-06-13 01:23:47
#11
yeah thats a good assumption, haha, check for leaks and fix the oring/s and recharge the system and you will be good to go.
2009-06-13 20:42:56
#12
u have a leak somewhere in your system, my b13 had a leak from the a/c compressor and replaced it with a new one and converted to r134a. all i did was replace all the o-rings flush out the condensor all the lines and evaporator. and install brand new o-rings, new drier and expansion valve, add 6oz oil pag 100 oil, 4oz on the compressor and 2oz on the drier. pull a vac for 1 hour and recharge. and system is working great now and super cold on 105 degree weather. best thing to do is stay R12....


since its r134a already.. replace all your o-rings with new r-134a o-rings from autozone, from all your lines, drier, and compressor in. and exh.. i bet u have some 18 year old r-12 orings on there still.. once done that pull a vac for 30 min i do 1 hour for best results. then simply charge with 2 cans of r134a 12oz. dont overcharge undercharge is the best way to stay.. then charge some leak dye or add some leak dye when your installing your new o-rings onto your compressor.. and you should be fine...

your low side pressures should be around 35-45psi at 1500rpm or so and about 200-250psi or so on high side depending on your weather conditions.

your high pressire switch is on your drier, and low is on the compressor btw

did u add oil to your system already?
2009-06-13 23:15:26
#13
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
one of your pressure switches is bad. I cant remember if there is both a high pressure and low pressure switch on our systems. The high pressure switch would be on the high side line and the low on the low..

Ashton, you rock sir!

I was having AC issues as described above, the vehicle at Mikes shop, with him scratching his head and studying wiring diagrams.

I SEARCHed out solutions on the forum, and subsequently read this thread.

Mike called me this afternoon, and before he could speak, I asked about.....wait for it.....the pressure switches.

Mike explained that after monkeying around with the AC, checking all the grounds, fuses, fuse box, testing wires left and right, checking the pressure itself, scratching his head and cursing, etc...etc...etc... Mike went back and RE-tested the pressure switches, before he called me.

One of the wires going into the switch had an intermittent connection issue. Tricky little bastard, but Mike finally tracked it down, solder, shrink wrap, butt-connectors, etc..etc...whatever....and the PRESSURE SWITCH is fixed. AC works like a champ.

Mike laughed, and said "You've been reading the forum, haven't you?"

You called it Ashton. Thanks for the insight.
2009-06-15 23:55:26
#14
Originally Posted by Se-rious_93
u have a leak somewhere in your system, my b13 had a leak from the a/c compressor and replaced it with a new one and converted to r134a. all i did was replace all the o-rings flush out the condensor all the lines and evaporator. and install brand new o-rings, new drier and expansion valve, add 6oz oil pag 100 oil, 4oz on the compressor and 2oz on the drier. pull a vac for 1 hour and recharge. and system is working great now and super cold on 105 degree weather. best thing to do is stay R12....


since its r134a already.. replace all your o-rings with new r-134a o-rings from autozone, from all your lines, drier, and compressor in. and exh.. i bet u have some 18 year old r-12 orings on there still.. once done that pull a vac for 30 min i do 1 hour for best results. then simply charge with 2 cans of r134a 12oz. dont overcharge undercharge is the best way to stay.. then charge some leak dye or add some leak dye when your installing your new o-rings onto your compressor.. and you should be fine...

your low side pressures should be around 35-45psi at 1500rpm or so and about 200-250psi or so on high side depending on your weather conditions.

your high pressire switch is on your drier, and low is on the compressor btw

did u add oil to your system already?



Excellent! Now, how exactly you flush out the condensor all the lines and evaporator? pull a vac for 1 hour??? How you do that?

Can I use this? - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Until last week my a/c did not work good whenever the car was at idle or low speeds. Last week I took my car for an a/c check up. They put a can of freon(R12) and some oil. NOW, every time the weather is hot or the car is very hot inside the a/c compressor start turning on and off very fast. It does not happens in the morning or in the evening, it just happens when the weather is very hot or whenever the car is very hot inside.

Too much freon??? Also, the compressor been making some noise for a long time now.

I'm planning to get a new compressor, dryer and anything else needed to do the job myself. But I want to do it right!

Another alternative is, to install everything myself and take it to get re-charge with R12.

Any recommendations?

Can somebody do a write up with details and step by step on this subject? How to convert your a/c to R134.
2009-06-16 02:47:07
#15
Originally Posted by Mr
Can somebody do a write up with details and step by step on this subject? How to convert your a/c to R134.


Seriously. This is one part of the car I really don't understand.
2009-06-24 22:52:42
#16
Originally Posted by Mr
Can somebody do a write up with details and step by step on this subject? How to convert your a/c to R134.


Anyone kind enough to do this for those of us who just don't get it? Thanks!
2009-06-25 19:17:56
#17
Ok so I figured out what was wrong....there was a crack in the high-pressure hard line where it connects to the compressor!

So I bought a line from the pull-a-part yard for $4. Awesome.
I'd like to evacuate the system before I put new freon in it.

Are there any special tools I can buy to do this myself? I don't want to pay a shop to simply hook up an evac machine.
2009-06-25 21:16:55
#18
Originally Posted by lennySE-R
Ok so I figured out what was wrong....there was a crack in the high-pressure hard line where it connects to the compressor!

So I bought a line from the pull-a-part yard for $4. Awesome.
I'd like to evacuate the system before I put new freon in it.

Are there any special tools I can buy to do this myself? I don't want to pay a shop to simply hook up an evac machine.


Your system is already evacuated - the cracked line took care of that. Once you replace the line, you will want to put a vacuum on it. If you are starting over, you may want to take the time & effort to convert to R134A now.

From what I've been told the electric vacuum systems are the way to go - the compressed air versions seem to be lacking (what I've found from searching & told by techs). I was trying to find if AutoZone, etc would allow you to rent the vacuum or not - turns out my neighbor has one, so my searching ended.

Good luck. I'm trying to figure out why my AC struggles in slower/stop & go traffic (fan maybe?).

Josh
2009-06-25 21:19:28
#19
I had firestone pull the vacuum on mine for like $20 a few years back. It's not that bad if they don't have to do much, search shops locally.
2009-06-26 03:49:26
#20
Originally Posted by Fosters
Your system is already evacuated - the cracked line took care of that. Once you replace the line, you will want to put a vacuum on it. If you are starting over, you may want to take the time & effort to convert to R134A now.

From what I've been told the electric vacuum systems are the way to go - the compressed air versions seem to be lacking (what I've found from searching & told by techs). I was trying to find if AutoZone, etc would allow you to rent the vacuum or not - turns out my neighbor has one, so my searching ended.

Good luck. I'm trying to figure out why my AC struggles in slower/stop & go traffic (fan maybe?).

Josh


My system has already been converted to R134 thankfully.

How important is vacuum? Can I just squirt some freon back in it and call it a day?
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