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Thread: Crossmember bolts stripped/damaged

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Posts: 41-44 of 44
2010-08-06 19:27:52
#41
Originally Posted by TrackJunky82
Oh man I've had to do this too many times. Its a freaking headache. I've decided that in order to avoid future repairs my engine pulls will take place from up top and not from below. More work, but the work to repair the crossmember bolts is an even bigger increase in work.


Why I've always pulled motors from the top
2011-08-15 15:08:17
#42
Originally Posted by TrackJunky82
Oh man I've had to do this too many times. Its a freaking headache. I've decided that in order to avoid future repairs my engine pulls will take place from up top and not from below. More work, but the work to repair the crossmember bolts is an even bigger increase in work.


PM sent.
2011-08-15 19:33:20
#43
These 4 bolts are just a pain you have to be so careful and line it up 90% of messed up ones come from bad swaps. I've seen so many SE-Rs and you get the thing up in the air and look at those bolts the first time and you know..... some chowder-head in the past just made your life a lot harder.

If you take the engine out the top this is easy and you don't have to worry but I just think that is so much harder. Even with a leveler.

Back ot I drilled my lower rad suport and put some bolts through once it works fine. I used to check it every week just to make sure but it holds and doesn't shift. The trick is to get a thick bolt and a small stack of washers to approximate the weight distribution.

I could see this setup maybe slipping under heavy track use with a lot of weight and turns at like 100mph but then I'd just have it welded up there. It would cost almost nothing.
2011-08-16 02:30:09
#44
i just make a hole removed stock nuts and used a big washer with a new bolt and nut and after i tight it, just did some solder to the nut and washer not bolt and works PERFECT for the past years! and have been removed lots of times!
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