Thread: Crossmember bolts stripped/damaged

- Kit seems a bit expensive for one use, but I might have to get it. I'll see if my Dad can help me before I pick this up. Anybody have this kit with some spare inserts I can use?



http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=5983&action=product#bottom

^Link to TIME-SERT kit.

I agree to a point but we're talking about your chassis here. If that one point fails, you cannot drive the car if the cross-member comes apart in the back. Plus there is a MM right there, it's a highly stressed area.

Also having something chase out 10x1.25 threads comes in handy, trust me there. The money I dropped on Bolt Extractors, Carbide Drill Bits, and Tap/Die hand tools wasn't cheap, but I have since run into so many jobs where I used them again. Damn bolts that hold up exhaust hangers, for example, three bolts broke off super-easy on my 2nd car. NP, drilled a pilot hole, used a tapered extractor bit, chased the threads, put in a new bolt (x3).

Hopefully you won't need to use the inserts anywhere else, so ya if you can find someone with just the spare inserts you could do the rest if you had a right thread pitch tool to chase the threads. But the O.D. of the insert is going to be larger, the inside is 10x1.25 I think for these bolts, so you need to cut new threads which means another tool - kit may be a lot cheaper in the long run unless you can hook up with someone else.

Another alternative still is to just cut new and larger diameter threads, put in a quality bolt, that's where someone with a good set of tap and dies could save you all the cost except for a bolt. I bought OEM bolts for my broken off bolt (I was able to save the threads) but honestly see no reason why any comparable flange bolt with the right threads of decent quality wouldn't work, and that would cost all of $5 or less.

I hear you, throwing money at a kit isn't fun, but there are several other places where you have the same size bolt - mostly things that bolt onto the chassis like the exhaust hanger stuff, other candidates for breakage.

I just helped Jensen re-tap his xmember bolts and holes.

I bought a metric tap/die set from Harbor Freight about 2 years ago for roughly $15. His bolts AND holes were TRASHED. Just sprayed the same diameter tap with cutting oil, and slowly rethreaded the existing holes. They look clean as a whistle, now. Used the cutter on the bolts and cleaned them up perfectly, as well.

Sometimes, you don't really need to go crazy and use time-serts or anything else. Just be patient and clean the threads and then go from there.

^I have extra bolts that are clean from previous cars. Can you link me to what you bought exactly? Maybe I can try what you are suggesting first. I just want to make sure I get the right thing. There is a harbor frieght in my area I can pick this up from.

Guess I got lucky, and the kit was on clearance at my local HF.

45 Piece Metric Titanium Nitride Coated Alloy Steel Tap & Die Set

Apparently now on sale for $63.

They have the 40 piece set for 11.99, but it's carbon steel and not Ti.

40 Piece Metric Carbon Steel Tap and Die Set

- Thanks forum member formerly known as Tekkie. I'll go to harbor and see what I need to get. So I assume the 45 piece set is the one I should get over the 40 piece set?

Personally, I would MUCH prefer the Ti kit, since the bits will last longer than the Carbon Steel bits. However, if you're only going to use it once or twice, and consider that it paid for itself, then the Carbon should do the trick.

^^ tell jensen I want my tap, die and heli coil back.

haha tell him yourself!

Oh man I've had to do this too many times. Its a freaking headache. I've decided that in order to avoid future repairs my engine pulls will take place from up top and not from below. More work, but the work to repair the crossmember bolts is an even bigger increase in work.