Thread: Electronic Water Pump

I feel pretty confident placing the electric water pump in the white line (from [Cylinder head] to [Thermostat]) pumping towards the [Thermostat] would give you stock like results. That is a hard line that you can cut and put the water pump in-line with I'm pretty sure.

Edit: And now that I think about it some more, there may be a problem with how the thermostat works. If when it opens it allows both the white and black lines to be open, then you're in business. If when the thermostat opens it blocks off the white line and only allows flow through the black line, then my suggestion is no good. I'm thinking the white path gets closed... So that's a no-go.

Looks like you either need to modify the block-off plate (or a junked water pump) which will be a custom fabrication job (my kind of fun) or go with the thermostat delete option.

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You wouldn't have much space on that hard water pipe. Remember he's putting in a DET iirc. ITs got that funky oil widget under the manifold on the back of the oil filter housing. Plus the starter motor and a few other bits.

That passage is too narrow also. Where were you going to put it (in the coupler/hose) ?

with little modification you could probably get the pump right where the small hose to the back of the block going to the water pump, this is the larger hose that is only 3" long or so. You would have to cut the hardpipe back some and you could use two short hoses on the pump, the meizer pump is fairly small when it comes to that area and it should fit in there nicely if done properly. I wouldnt see any reason you couldnt. It is a tight space and might be better off doing this with the motor out of the car.

Its either that or yes drill out the pintle hole on the thermostat to at least restrict some water but still alow it to flow so it heats up like it should.

OK, I think this is where the disconnect is in my thinking. I thought that the water flowed out from the motor to the thermostat, then, either recirc'ed or went to the rad. If the tstat was open, I was under the impression that water flowed up the radiator and reentered the head through the upper water neck. Is this wrong? Am I reversing the direction of flow in my mind? Here's a diagram of how I imagine the water flow in the SR20, but maybe I'm off base.



I know it's rough and ugly, but in my mind, putting the water pump on the left would drive water towards the water pump cavity and through the recirc side of the system when the thermostat is closed. Drilling out the tstat would ensure some flow and continuous supply of coolant to the pump and block, but still keeping the heat inside the block until the thermostat opened, allowing full flow at that point. Am I off here? Thanks for the input guys. This is really helping me a ton.

Further confusing me is that when I read your diagram, I don't see anything that represents the upper water neck on the driver's side. It shows the water going from the radiator into the thermostat, but also shows the coolant going from the cylinder head into the thermostat, which to me represent two different paths altogether. If the coolant goes from the cylinder head through the water outlet (meaning the pass side water neck) and into the radiator (tstat open), it represents one direction of coolant flow. Simultaneously, your diagram shows coolant flowing from the cylinder head to the thermostat, which I read to mean via the hardlines beneath the intake mani, which represents a separate and opposite direction of flow, unless there was a second switching point somewhere within the head or block. See what I'm saying? I need to go to bed. I've got myself swimming over this one. No pun intended!

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OK, Awesome, thanks for the clarification on that. It's still goofy to me, but I can accept that. I think I'll try out drilling the tstat to start with and see how it does. If it has trouble I'll pull it altogether. Just to be completely clear on this, if the water pump is mounted on the lower rad hose, it will pull from the radiator and push into the thermostat housing. Am I right?

Upon further reflection, the way that the Davies Craig controller works dictates necessarily that it doesn't really matter what happens as the coolant will only be pulsing intermittently from fully cold until full running temp is reached. It only runs full speed at the set high operating temp.

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