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Thread: Electronic Water Pump

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Posts: 21-30 of 33
2009-02-18 12:42:42
#21
Sorry for coming back so late in the game.

Originally Posted by dr.fowler
Is this wrong? Am I reversing the direction of flow in my mind?
Yes, you're reversing it. It flows from passenger side to driver's side.


Originally Posted by dr.fowler
Further confusing me is that when I read your diagram, I don't see anything that represents the upper water neck on the driver's side.
As Char said, it's labeled [Water outlet] in that diagram.


Originally Posted by dr.fowler
Just to be completely clear on this, if the water pump is mounted on the lower rad hose, it will pull from the radiator and push into the thermostat housing. Am I right?
Yes.
2009-02-18 13:11:29
#22
This is another thread where we are overthinking things.

The factory water pump is where it is only because thats where the crank is and you got to spin the thing with the belts.

A water pump can go anywhere in the system because all it does is move water.

All the T stat does is allow the motor to get up to operating temps. Once there it allows the water to flow through the motor.

So.

If you have a electric controller that reads temp and it turns the water pump on and off depending on temp then your electic temp controller becomes and or acts like the T stat.

So when putting in a electric water pump, get rid of your T stat.

I run mine without the T stat and I also run mine without a controller so it is permantly on when the car is on.

In a warm climate it is not a problem to run without a T stat, in a colder climate you must run a electric temp controler as the car will never get close to operating temps.
2009-02-18 13:18:05
#23
Now there are many ways to counter act having the car run to cold without a T stat.

1. Electric controller
2. Restrictor where the T stat goes.


This means take out the t stat and have aluminum flat washer things made with diffrent hole sizes made. These hole sizes can start from 1/2 inch and go up in increments of 1/8. Just try out a few of them untill you get a temp you like.

I have made these things and have them in my arm rest but have never put them in.
2009-02-18 13:18:54
#24
If you can rig the pump off the back, more power, but I doubt you will get it there. Now, if you can get custom fititngs ont he radiator and the engine coolant neck, then you can put the pump anywhere really. I suggest running the pump to the side, either fender, and not deal with it being between the motor and radiator. This gives you more capacity, more flexibility for mounting and more reliability. I have -16 fittings I believe on my coolant neck and on the radiator for this purpose. I can put the EWP about anywhere I want to this way and make sure it is fastened down really good.

Use whatever pump is easiest to mount Dr. Fowler and DO NOT use the thermostat, especially with a pump controller! The Controller is your thermostat! You are on the right track man!

Brent
2009-02-18 13:24:29
#25
I have had my electric water pump on my car for 4 years now with no problems.

Mine is mounted between the T stat housing and the radiator.

I made a bracket that bolts it to the 2 17mm bolts on the front of the tranny. My Electrict weater pump is secured. The hose on the bottom from pump to rad is more than long enough to take up any engine movement. I dont have any anyway engine movemnet anyway as my JWT engine mounts stop that.

This electric water pump thing is very simple to do. If you have a Mizner pump I can even duplicate my bracket.
2009-02-18 20:23:03
#26
Thanks guys. I agree that I'm overthinking this. My main concern is that I'm in Wyoming, which is definitely what I'd call a "cooler climate"! If I ran the pump constantly, I'd never get up to the right temps. The Davies Craig controller seems to be the best one out there... It operates in 3 phases, a cold phase, a warm/running phase, and then fully on at full hot temps. It's the only thing I've been able to find that will modulate the pump and keep me from always being cool. I'm actually considering ditching my koyo rad, as I've heard that these pumps are so efficient that you actually get overcooling with a big radiator. We'll see how it goes. Thanks for your input guys, I really appreciate it. Andreas, could you just shoot me a pic of your bracket and how it's mounted? I have a bracket that came with it, but I don't see how it can work. It's supposedly specifically for the SR20, but looks all wrong.
2009-02-18 21:13:51
#27
deleted
2009-02-19 01:41:36
#28
I honestly have not read every post here but here is where my Meziere is, and it is wired to ignition, the thermostat has been drilled. the i used the bracket that came with the meziere that bolts to the tranny but had to modify a bit to fit the b15 trans.
2009-02-20 20:22:26
#29
Andreas, what would you say is a good temp to set my controller at as full hot? That would be the temp where the pump circulates at full power until it gets down to 85% of full hot.
2009-02-20 21:17:12
#30
Originally Posted by dr.fowler
Andreas, what would you say is a good temp to set my controller at as full hot? That would be the temp where the pump circulates at full power until it gets down to 85% of full hot.


I would say to have the pump come on at 170 degrees during summer and 190 degrees during winter.


The fans come on at 212 degrees and shut of at 200 degrees.

The car switches from cold map to regular running map at 150 degrees.
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