Thread: Weekend Plan - Suggestions?

Ok. Back a few months I dyno'd my 93' Se-r and got some low numbers. If you didn't read that thread then here it is:

http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/12468-dyno-losing-power-need-help-2.html

This weekend my borther (also on forum, p11 w/ sr20) and I are planning to get some much needed car time in, weather permiting. I bought timing gun and compression tester a few weeks back. My course of actions will be:

This Weekend:
1. Check ignition components
2. Check timing [if retarded I will set it back to stock (around 15*)]
3. Check compression in all 4 cylinders

I'd rather know I've got good parts than be skeptical about the ones on there, so in next couple weeks [granted that i get good readings on everything I do this weekend] I will:
1. Buy and install tune-up parts
2. Get a new Battery
3. New Stg2 clutch and new flywheel

MY QUESTIONS:
1. For the compression test, what range am I hoping to get? [1993 Usdm sr20de]. I had the numbers before but I lost it, and haven't been able to find them again on forum.
2. Is reseting the ECU an option? Will this help any?
3. Any other suggestions?

Any help will be appreciated..

Compression Test Procedure
(from 1996 SR20DE FSM)

1. Warm up engine.
2. Turn ignition switch off.
3. Release fuel pressure.
4. Remove all spark plugs.
5. Disconnect distributor coil connector.
6. Attach compression tester to #1 cylinder.
7. Depress accelerator pedal fully to keep throttle valve wide open.
8. Crank engine and record highest gauge indication.
9. Repeat on each cylinder.
* Always use a fully charged battery to obtain specified engine speed.
Compression pressure:
- Standard = 178 psi / 300 rpm
- Minimum = 149 psi / 300 rpm
- Difference limit between cylinders = 14 psi / 300 rpm

10. If compression in one or more cylinders is low:
a. Pour a small amount of engine oil into cylinders through spark plug holes.
b. Retest compression.
* If adding oil helps compression, piston rings may be worn or damaged. If so, replace piston rings after checking piston.
* If pressure stays low, a valve may be sticking or seating improperly. Inspect and repair valve and valve seat. If valve seat is damaged excessively, replace them.
* If compression stays low in two cylinders that are next to each other:
a. The cylinder head gasked may be leaking, or
b. Both cylinders may have valve component damage.
Inspect and repair as necessary.

Good Plan but your time will be better spent determining the condition of existing parts.

1. Check the condition of your regular tuneup items:
- Spark Plugs (worn, burnt or oily) - Replace if old or burnt (if oily, you need new valve cover seals)
- Spark Plugs wires (arching, cracking, torn boots) - Replace if bad
- Distributor Cap (signs of cracking) - Replace if bad
- Distributor Rotor (worn down/burnt tip) - Replace if bad
- Condition of Throttle body/butterfly (dirty & gummed up) - Clean TB cleaner if dirty
- PCV Valve (rattle when shaken) - Just replace it; cheap
- Cracked/Hard/Loosely fitting Vacuum Lines - replace
- Fuel filter (cheap gas & age kills them) - replace if clogged or old
- Fuel Hoses - check for cracks and leak - replace any suspect hose
- MAF - dirty on inside of little hole (tiny wire inside) - Get some CRC MAF cleaner and follow the instructions closely.
- Air Filter - Change paper filter if dirty OR Clean & Re-Oil for reusable filters (not too much oil)
- Oil (dirty oil) - Change the oil & filter (Synthetic will help your engine last longer)

2. Next - now that you are good & dirty, this would be a good time to perform the compression test on all 4 cylinders.. Download the FSM (Factory Service Manual) for the appropriate values. Just make sure that all the cyclinders measurements are approximately the same..

3. The fun part & where power is returned. Finish the tuneup by finding someone with Nissan Datascan on a PC. Then:
- Check using DataScan or your digital volt meter, the TPS ohms. Check at both closed throttle & WOT throttle. Using DataScan, turn ignition to on position but dont start car. Just read the DataScan TPS onscreen meter for the values by pressing the gas pedal all the way for WOT & releasing it for closed.
- Check for codes. WRITE DOWN the actual codes. Now, you will know what error the engine HAD and what remains to be fixed...
- Then Clear all the codes; RESET the ECU.. Fixed Error Codes will not return later. YES.. This helps alot...
- Put the engine in timing mode - Using Nissan Datascan makes this very easy.. otherwise DO the Nissan RainDance
- - Set the idle first - SR20DE's likes idle around 800-850 using the idle screw
- - Set the Timing using a timing light - Set the timing to 15deg or 17deg (for extra horsepower)

Note: if you dont know someone with Nissan Datascan, search threads for the steps necessary to put the ECU into Timing Mode. Otherwise, your idle & timing will be WRONG...

4. For Gas mileage improvements & better performance:
- Change the Oxygen Sensor
- Reground your MAF

After this you will be ready for a shower... But you should see/feel a performance increase... The car should feel peppier...

Still got time?? Or idle is funky?? Or Missing a little??
Things to check to get her purring...
- Check the condition of your injectors.. Are they leaking? Clogged?
- Perform olm test using your Digital Volt Meter (DVM) to determine if all electronics are functioning within specs:
For air problems, test: IACV, MAF Sensor, and Air Regulator.
For fuel: Fuel filter, Cannister (& its hoses), FPR, Injectors, Fuel Pump.
For Idle: IACV, Timing, Air Regulator, Vacuum Hoses, TPS and MAF. On second pass: EGR, EGR Pipe, BPT, Throttle body Butterfly (cable releasing & letting it close all the way), and PCV. Test the Knock Sensor just to be sure its okay...

Each test takes about 5 mins to perform, but will usually weedout the dead or dying electrical components. The FSM is your friend.

Whew..... That was alot of typing.. But hope this helps... Plan ahead and you will get more done..

Solid advice from the previous 2 posts -- read carefully and follow it.

Buy only Nissan ignition parts (wires/cap/rotor). And never use anything but NGK spark plugs on a Nissan.

I'd recommend setting your timing to 17* rather than 15*BTDC. This will give you a few more ponies and better gas mileage but still allow you to run regular gas. If you run high test you can go to 19*. Listen for detonation, but you probably will not have any problems with these settings.

Thanks for the write up. Most of what you recommended in #1 I had in mind to take care of.. The 1st 4 items in #1 are being replaced.. along with the pcv valve and fuel filter.. the air filter needs to be cleaned/replaced. The engine oil is good.. I did oil change myself recently.. Mobil 1 all the way. The other things I have to check on.

Only thing is I would rather check the compression 1st to ensure internally everything is solid.. before I use my energy/time to get all the other components up to par, which would be the next step. Would suck to do all of #1 and then piston rings are bad or there's valve damage (which I doubt but I'd still like to know for sure).. Anything wrong in that sequence? 2 then 1, 3 and so on..

Any shop where you can pick up trusted nissan oe parts at a store or is online the only option? Currently was going to order parts from rockAuto, gspec or courtesynissan. I'd figure this is the best bet for cheaper prices.

Just avoid the BS and go with a vendor who will get you the right stuff the first time for a decent price. I order from Greg at Gspec. Keep in mind parts take some time to ship from CA.

Kewl.. Hope it helps to target items that should be checked..
Some very knowledgable members has posted some very usefull info here.
I would definitely follow their recommendations.. As this is becoming a very informational thread but this is NOT normal. Its very unusual to post this much repeat info, as the same info can be found using the Forum Search.. Some of the details is STILL missing, so download a FSM and lookup the detail settings & test before you start.. That will save you lots of time when actually doing the tuneup... Just my .02..

Sup BillC... Thanks for the comment. We need to get together in March!! Convention Caravan maybe??

The order is completely up to you.. I usually just make a list and check off each item as I go to save time.. The reason my order appears differently, I try to order things in sequence of like events.
Example:
- Some things is best done with a cold engine (spark plugs, throttle cleaning, gas filter, etc.)
Then some testing is also done with engine off (ohm testing - IACV, Air Regulator, temp sensor, etc)
Other things is done with ignition ON but engine OFF - (MAF ground, TPS, dizzy/injector click test, etc)
Finally, the remaining stuff is done with the engine running (after engine is warmed up to Operating Temp) - Timing, idle setting, vacuum leak testing, EGR & PVC testing, etc.

So, I do the cold engine stuff first, then do some DVM sensor testing, then do stuff that gets hot quickly, finish my DVM sensor testing with ignition on, take it out for a short test run to reach operating temp and finally my engine running testing/tuning.. Kinda hard to change the O2 sensor on a hot engine (spark plugs can get hot too!!).

But thats just me... Really.. No order is necessary.. Its the satisfaction of doing it yourself, getting the car purring, and KNOWING its right ! !
Have fun this weekend.. The Weather is suppose to be WARM in the Atlantic NE this weekend!!

Have u looked up Howto do the Nissan Raindance yet?? (VERY IMPORTANT)

Dont know where in NY you live, but we have many great members in the NYC area that may help you out if you are close (Stanton, ChrisCar, Pretty White, & many others).

Forgot to answer the parts question...

To get the best prices, order online before Tuesday night. Your parts should get there by Friday. Locally is just the Dealer for OEM and is only used in an emergency on Saturday (before the parts dept closes at 3PM normally; Some is 6PM).

We support our forum vendors FIRST and then other online vendors if the prices are better..

Some people have had luck using AutoZone, Pep Boys and others... Substandard Remanufactured parts at a Jacked-up price. They come with a lifetime warranty, but you will spend alot of your lifetime removing/returning/reinstalling that lifetime remag part!! I dont trust the stuff but thats just me.. As BillC stated above, Ignition parts, alternator, and compressors should always be Nissan OEM (NEVER anything Remag aftermarket).

You would do better using OEM Used Junkyard Parts than remag parts for these components.

+1^
Or so-called non-OEM "name brand parts" - my one time using Bosch cap and rotor instead of OEM parts on my U13, rotor came apart and well, you can see the rest:





The rotor came apart due to a crack in it, bolt backed out and did the rest.

Amazingly, the car still ran and even went through emissions with a hole in the cap and several of the contact points ground away to next to nothing. It actually ran with the rotor pieces flying around inside the cap, and the rotor looking just like that. Ran just a little rough at idle, and seemed down on power.

I have easily 250k plus miles combined on B13, U13, and my V35, I never use any ignition parts other than OEM and NGK/OEM spec. Well, almost never - once, as you can see above.

All plans on hold. In hosiptal. Had emergency surgery to remove my inflammed appendix.. Will post when I'm back on my feet..