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Thread: Why I will never buy ANYTHING from CLUTCHNET EVER AGAIN.

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Posts: 11-20 of 53
2009-01-29 01:13:28
#11
Originally Posted by Johnny
Hell I could understand if the car was being pushed and it broke even. But the car was Idling... I REFUSE to deal with clutchnet ever again.


Based on the rust from where the rivet bind the plate to the spline hub that has been messed up and rattling for a while. It just finally gave out. You are lucky it didn't do it in a dangerous situation.

Your clutch wore out and also broke in 12k miles (separate areas)... that speaks highly of the quality.
2009-01-29 01:26:45
#12
Originally Posted by wnwright
How is this not clear?

I can clearly see that there are marks going across the rivets holding the friction pads on that are also on the pads... Indicating you wore it down to the rivets...


OK Ill say it again lol. YOU dont understand what your looking at. The Clutch's friction pads are NO WHERE NEAR being close to worn to the rivets. The damage you see if from a rivet that holds the center portion of the clutch breaking off flying outwards and then getting caught between teh presure plate and disc and spinning. You have to press the clutch in to get it into gear. When I pressed if in that when all that happend and then I shut it down.

And it does speak highly of there quality. There a reason why ACT's unsprung hubs use WAY more rivets in teh center section then clutchnets. And Im guessing this is why...FUK CLUTCHNET. My car couldve been running again today! But nooooo
2009-01-29 01:34:44
#13
Whats even weirder is how you were praising their stuff left and right and then this happened. Sucks man.
2009-01-29 01:37:06
#14
^^I even did some advertising for them right!....and this is what I get. NOw I gotta to some back tracking lol cause they showed there true colors.
2009-01-29 01:47:40
#15
Here is johnny's problem; Those wear marks all of you see are from the fragments of the rivets that hold the hub to the disk flying outward due to centrifugal force and getting caugh betweent he PP, Flywheel And disk when cluthc is dissengaged. thatr is why there are deep grooves.

If infact he had worn it down to the rivets like i have seen form some seriously boosted dsm's the rivets would almsot be stretched out in a clockwise direction from the metal coming incontact with the other metal surfaces.

The rust on the hub where the rivest go doesn't necessarally mean that it was brekaing for a while, it is a raw metal with a coating, remove the coating add moisture (even humidity) and you have rust.

Common things that lead to this happening are;
1. Hanging of the gearbox upon installation =/(inataller **** up)
2. flywheel or pp is warped and or PP contact surface it strected so it is not a complete circle. (This will cause the disk to be pulled outward during rotation thus separating the rivets in the hub from the disk.
(caused by alignment pins in flyhweel not being installed, dumping the clutch too often)
3.Sh*tty product

BTW; search the other forum for a thread titled Ebay clutch gone worng look!
made tat thread of my journey through soon to be 3 clutches form a junk flyhweel(pins not being installed leading to missaligned PP) I'm banned so i cant get you the link =/

hope this helps all of you
2009-01-29 01:53:29
#16
Originally Posted by Johnny
OK Ill say it again lol. YOU dont understand what your looking at. The Clutch's friction pads are NO WHERE NEAR being close to worn to the rivets. The damage you see if from a rivet that holds the center portion of the clutch breaking off flying outwards and then getting caught between teh presure plate and disc and spinning. You have to press the clutch in to get it into gear. When I pressed if in that when all that happend and then I shut it down.


Whatever ... So if it so "NO WHERE NEAR" then how are the lines consistent across? Obviously something of the same height drug across evenly... Take an angle picture for me. And stop repeating how it happened, you are trying to talk down to me and it is disrespectful especially when I've already said I understood what happened.
2009-01-29 01:58:05
#17
My brother had a very mild ClutchNet clutch, and it disintegrated within 6 months, IIRC.
2009-01-29 02:07:04
#18
Originally Posted by novadose914
The rust on the hub where the rivest go doesn't necessarally mean that it was brekaing for a while, it is a raw metal with a coating, remove the coating add moisture (even humidity) and you have rust.


Is that how rust works? Wow never knew that.

What I am talking about is the lack, rubbings, coloration, and intensity of it.

You can see where the rivet was rubbing before it broke, where the spline hub rubbed when it spun, etc.
2009-01-29 02:41:25
#19
wnright- Im not trying to talk down to you. Your just trying to tell me something that isnt true of a clutch that I had in my hands. But the argument is niether here nor there. Who cares. The clutch is in the trash now where it belongs. Im gonna order an ACT tom. The bottom line is that Clutchnet will never see a cent out of me anymore and you should never order anything from them either. ****em!

Hopefully it works with the Clutchnet Pressure plate.
2009-01-29 02:51:56
#20
Originally Posted by Johnny
On top of that...After just getting off the phone with George. He basically told me that the little guys dont matter to Clutchnet and he wont replace the clutch because its out of its 90day warrenty even though it fell the fuk apart. He offered me a %25 percent discount. WTF! I want to spaz out and harm this guy.


Eh, at least he's offering you a discount. You have to remember, race clutches in general won't have the longest warranty, and its usually just that, 90 days or so. If you drive it for 3 months, and it doesn't break, it was free from any defects when manufactured.

The ACT 6 puck that came on my car left me stranded as well. It's going to happen, just buy another disc.
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