Thread: "Project A/C to beat the heat" "Pics Inside"

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eBay Guides - Freeze-12 Refrigerant R134a

If you go to the freeze 12 home page, they no longer offer the regular freeze 12. They now offer something a little different. I think I'll try and find someone who is licensed to use R12... I really don't want to have to convert my '91.

Mark

Same for me, especially since I have read a few places that most of those "alternatives" will contaminate the r12 or r134a in a shops evac system, so most of them won't touch it.

I am currently changing the compressor clutch out with the lines still attached to the compressor in my NX because I don't want to release the r12 that the system is still charged with ( no leaks ).

R12 is getting so damn expensive. Hell, with them shutting down R134a plants worldwide, you can expect prices to get pretty ridiculous in the next couple months. 134a 30lb cans are going to be going for $300. That's buying bulk! You're talkin $15-$20 for a tiny 11oz can of the plain ole crap. That means roughly $50-60 just to fill the system.

I got all my new stuff installed, went well. Except for the evac when the mech told me the high side was great but the low side has a blockage. The expansion valve is blocked, but before I try to figure out how to remove it im curious if its possible to flush or reverse flush the core to remove the blockage. Ideas?

If the flush/reverse flush is not possible, can anyone point me in the right direction of getting the evap core out? Ive been searching without much success. Thanks all.

Go R134a if you are already going to replace all of those things. And get a condenser for that as well. The R134a condensers are bigger. Also, the expansion valve can be very difficult to get off without damaging the evaporator.

In general, you can splice a lot of pieces/parts together, as long as they fit. To keep things cheap, my B13 is running a compressor from a B14 (R134a), a condenser from a B13 (R12), and evaporator from a B13 (r134a). I think the receiver/dryer was for a B13, the only piece I bought new. My a/c blows plenty cold, although it might do a bit better with an r134a condenser but that was more expensive for me at the time.

One of the big issues with compressors is getting one with the same bolt pattern as the mounting plate. As far as my experience goes, all mounting plates use the same bolt pattern to bolt up to an SR20DE engine, but the mounting bolt pattern for compressor to mounting plate changed several times. I also think some of the a/c hardlines ran a bit differently to/from the compressor.

In all, I got the major components mounted up in my car, then I figured out what size and type of fittings the hardlines needed and then pillaged the Nissan section of my junkyard until I found ones that fit, with new o-rings of course.

I don't know about flushing it, but the evap core is pretty easy to get out. I think it helps to remove the glove box, and of course the metal a/c lines that attach to the firewall. Other than that, I think it is just a few bolts holding it in, then you just wiggle out the black box that it sits in from under the pass side of the dash.

I may be lacking in the "wiggle" part lol. I got the glove box and brace out, then all the bolts and elec conn I could see attached to the black box. I will just have to give it some minor abuse. Thanks for the reply, at least I know im on the right track now. I picked up a can of A/C flush to clean the evap core with, then I should be all good with the new exp. valve.

Cold a/c here we come!

I'm sure you've already done this, but since you didn't mention it I thought I would reiterate the removal of the a/c lines from the firewall. In the engine bay, the male threads sticking out of the firewall that the metal a/c lines attach to are part of the evap core, so you can't get it out without freeing those first.