Thread: Manny's VET Open-Motor Surgery

$300+ headstuds isn't in my budget.

GTiR bolts will do just fine. I figure I could send the block to Mazworx.

Why not get AEBS studs?

http://www.kteller.biz/product.asp?cookiecheck=yes&numRecordPosition=1&P_ID=220

Every pic of AEBS head studs look just like the ARP ones. Down to the nut and washer

I looked in AEBS, but nobody has been able to fully confirm that they are longer than the ARP.

I talked it over with Lance & Dre.

ARP SR20 HEAD BOLTS ARE EVIL! THEY ARE THE GRIM REAPER OF HEAD GASKETS.

WHAT I BELEIVE THE PROBLEM IS WITH ARP HEAD BOLTS IS THE AMOUNT OF THREAD USED THE SECURE IT INTO THE BLOCK. THERE IS NOT ENOUGH THREAD TO ALLOW IT TO "BOTTOM OUT" IN THE THREADED HEAD BOLT HOLE IN THE BLOCK. THE LACK OF THREAD ON THE BOLT MAKES THE BOLT FEEL THAT IT HAS BOTTOMED OUT, BUT ACTUALLY HAS STOPPED ABOUT A QUARTER INCH SHY, BECUASE OF THE POOR DESIGN. THE BOLT IS A FREE RUNNING BOLT UNTIL IT IS PULLED BY TIGHTENING THE HEAD BOLT NUT. WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE NUT IT PULLS THE BOLT AGAINST THE THREADS IN THE BLOCK, WHICH IS THE ANCHOR FOR YOU HEAD. BUT SINCE THE ARP DOESNT BOTTOM DOWN IN THE BLOCK, WHEN YOU TIGHTEN DOWN THE HEAD BOLT NUT, YOU ARE ACTUALLY PULLING ONE THE FIRST COUPLE OF THREADS IN THE BLOCK, BECAUSE OF THE INTERFERENCE FELT WHEN INSTALLING THE STUD INTIALLY..(WHICH IS MISTAKEN THAT THE STUD HAS BOTTEMED OUT). WHEN PULLED ON THIS WHAT I CALL INTERFERENCE, IS WHY THE HEAD LIFTS UNDER HIGH BOOST APPLICATIONS. THERE IS NOT ENOUGH ANCHORING EFFECT FOR THE HEAD TO HOLD ONTO... ONLY THE FIRST TWO OR THREE TREADS IS ALL THAT IS HOLDING THE HEAD DOWN. UNFORTUANTLY I DIDNT FIND THIS OUT UNTIL I BLEW THE HEAD GASKET ON MY VET TWICE. FIRST I THOUGH IT WAS TUNING, BUT THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE TUNE, THE SECOND TIME. WHEN MATT CAME DOWN WITH THE GREDDY HEAD BOLTS, AND I TOOK A LOOK, THEN I REALIZED WHAT WAS HAPPENING. THE GREDDY HEAD BOLTS I THINK ARE DESIGNED PERFOECT, THAT IS WHY THEY COST SO MUCH. IF I HAD KNOW THIS BEFORE I WOULD HAVE INITALLY BOUGHT THE GREDDY AND THE VET WOULD PROBABLY STILL BE IN MY CAR. BUT HEY..THATS THE WAY IT GOES.


DRE I GOT TO CALL YOU OUT ON THIS ONE...

HERE IS A PIC OF THE EVEIL ARP HEAD BOLTS WHERE THE SCREW INTO THE BLOCK..



THERE YOU CAN SEE THE LACK OF THREADS PROVIDED TO "BOTTOM OUT" IN THE BLOCK.

HERE IS A PIC OF THE AEBS HEAD STUDS.


THERE YOU CAN SEE THAT THE AEBS HEAD STUD. THE PORTION OF THE BOLT THAT HAS THE SHANK ON THE END IS THE SIDE THAT SCREWS INTO THE BLOCK. WHICH WILL ALLOW IT TO "BOTTEM OUT" WHICH WILL MAKE FOR AN EXCELLENT ANCHOR FOR THE HEAD.

DRE'S A PUNK.

But All In All, I Have Learned In What We Are Into ... Well Atleast Most Of Us, Upgraded Head And Mainstuds Are A Waste Of Money, And Can Cause More Problems Than Needed. New Factory Head Bolts And Mains, Even The Stronger Gti-r Mains And Heads, Will Hold More Than We Will Probably Ever Need. I Also Like The Theory Behind The Stretched Design Of The Factory Head Bolt Than The Free Design Of The Aftermarkets.

That pic shows nothing diffrent. I am 100% sure that is the top of the stud.

That is used to drop it on so that it aligns up properly.

That is not the bottom of the stud. Also if it was you would have less thread bite, think about it for a second and you will understand.

Ok we have agrred that is the bottom of the stud but it will have less thread bite and thread bite is what we are looking for.

So the GTIR bolt is the best way to go.

Bring it to Mitchells I will look at it and we will go from there.

You get the stretch bolt from the factory bolt and 1mm more bolt for more surface area bite.

HERE IS SOME INFO ABOUT THE AEBS.



YOURE STILL A PUNK.

HERE YOU CAN ALSO SEE THE 1/2 INCH HEAD STUD FFROM MAZWORX ALSO HAS THE SHANK AT THE END OF THE STUD WHICH BOTTOMS OUT IN THE BLOCK.

NOW DONT TELL ME THE OTHER SIDE IS THE ONE THAT SCREWS INTO THE BLOCK.