Thread: Intake, exhaust, parts, parts parts!!

What from Fastbrakes kit are you running? The Wildwood setup or the NX setup? We are currently looking into caliper options for a better front kit, the Wildwoods are great but a little too pricey for the market.

For the rears ... Ill have to do some research.

the front's for a gti-r are identical to an b13/nx2000 ad22vf front caliper setup.
so im using the 11" wilwood dynalite kit for a b13/nx2000.

i believe the gti-r front suspension is nearly identical to a b13/nx2000 where the rear is diffferent.

i don't know if building a new front brake kit would be worthwhile as fastbrakes already has several options, but i guess thats up to you to decide.

I guess people are looking for a 4 piston setup that will fit under the 15 in wheels taht costs less than the fastbrakes wildwood kit.

for the rears I would need a car to take measurements.

Almost done, just had to get some bits to deal with my somewhat huge MAF adapter (believe that will be in the kit, my unique problem only). The fit of the TB to MAF section is very good, as is the welding and tube fabrication, the tubing past the MAF is very clean, and lines up well with the exit hole, even if you have a FS battery under the hood (I don't).

I had a really short and smaller diameter piece there before, the longer and larger pipe definitely had a noticeable, positive effect on the throttle response over the Popcharger with a really large cone. The cone I was using is the same size as my CAI on my VQ35DE in my G Coupe, so was the popcharger ring.

Lack of very quick throttle response was really ticking me off this last Autocross season until late Oct, I was running a K&N WAI with JWT venturi ring/popcharger on the car. Out on the road as a DD, you think, "Hey, nice power, nice sound", when it's more likely more like next to no power, just more sound. Out on the course at slower speed, it used to feel like unless I was very high into the powerband, I was just dying for faster throttle response, and that hesitation just kills your corner exit speed during the time you're not really accelerating from 25-30 mph up to full course speeds.

On a 80-85 deg day, w/o the benefit of driving at speed for any length of time, the underhood air temps are very high, easily 110-120 deg. Then you get 30, 60, 90 seconds to make your run after sitting around idling for 5-10 minutes in staging - the WAI is sucking very hot air for the entire run, as you have the heat you started with plus running the piss out of the motor for a minute or so. It wasn't overheating, I have Koyo with water wetter, UR UD on the water pump to avoid cavitation, the usual measures. It was just I could always count on my fastest time in late morning when I got the course down, by the time the temps went up outside, progressively slower times or the same times. The car's not traction challenged, the engine just gets noticeably down on response and power in the heat with the setup I had last season.

Not trying to reopen the WAI vs. CAI debate, just my observations on what I've found running the setup DC had, then a WAI with JWT ring, now this intake.

SO, this intake is looking pretty good so far, should wrap up checking fitment and taking a few more measurements in the next few days. Being all Aluminum 3" tubing, it's not a boat anchor like steel, so I won't add even more weight to a front-biased car.

I'm liking it

^^^ this is the ve cai intake?
If so I would like to check it out.
Maybe you can make a me a deal on the intake and exhaust together at thr same time for my nx.

Yes this will fit on the VE. We can talk a deal for the kit price. PM me for pricing. the NX kit should be done this week. Yo are right around the corner.

A bolt in 2.5" or so mid section "B" pipe. for the B13.

PM me for a price

Just about done here with the testing fitment and measurements, some observations on the intake bluebomber has sent to me and the kit he's putting together -

Very good quality materials and fabrication. Nicely 3 inch aluminum mandrel bent tubing from the TB out to the MAF. The bungs have a tight, precise fit and nicely done welds, a nice 360 deg bead outside, no gap inside:







The placement of the MAF is spot-on in relation to the distance to the TB. With my old short intake, this distance was too short:



Cheap intakes even weld this piece in two sections using stock bend tubing, and if you have pinholes, cracks, or any issues with this piece, you're ****ed - the motor will lean out and stop running, which is why I pay a lot of attention to the section from the MAF to the TB. Placement that allows the three B13 tubes to attach without extreme angles also a big plus.

You really want to keep the MAF out closer to where it lived in stock trim, not so close to the motor. Mike K mentions this distance in some of his SR tuning advice. This is where this intake places the MAF. The difference as I mentioned before running this is very quick throttle response. Someone smarter than I am would have to explain why this is so, but it's clear that the popcharger venturi ring in that close plus a very large K&N sounds "good" (if louder and deeper exhaust is your goal) but down under 5000 rpm, the throttle response sucked. Autocross you live and die by good throttle response on corner exit.

Most knock-off eBay short ram intakes make this mistake, and all they do is make a lot of noise and no power. LOL, I recently looked at an eBay special "CAI" for about 40 bucks, the filter I would generously call a roll of toilet paper, the welds look very lacking in fillet/bead support for the bungs, prone to cracking or breaking. If any of these three bungs fail on the first intake piece, you get air flowing in after the MAF, a lot more than it's giving fuel for. Extreme lean conditions under high load usually leads to broken motor bits.

The two pieces after the MAF give you nice ability to adjust the final placement of the air filter in the fender. One thing that bothers me about using one piece here is you have very little say over where the filter lands. If you don't like it extremely low, too bad if you have a single piece. AEM for example tends to place the filter lower than I am comfortable with.

Piece #2:



However AEM and Injen both do some other things well, like a quality powdercoat for both finish and heat soak resistance, which is what this will have - the bare aluminum is for fit and testing. I've noticed cheap intakes are usually very shiny, since polishing is cheaper than coating and does nothing to help with heat issues, but it raises the bling factor for people who want shiny things under their hood, the "chrome it all" crowd.

Sorry for all the delays, I finally have my cutout done using the supplied template to allow the 3" tube to exit into the fender well. If you live in New England lately you may have noticed it's been damn cold, and I also was waiting on a MAF adapter I ordered to use for test fit instead of my huge martian standard one (bluebomber makes his own and it will be included in the kit, much nicer than the "universal" 3" MAF adapter).

The elbows where silicone joints are clamped use a very good quality material, a lot like my Thermaflex tubing. Cheap silicon in pretty colors has a bad habit of cracking over time unlike quality stuff. If you're OK with using duct tape I suppose that's workable.

I see a lot of CAI/WAI discussion around "just buy the cheapest eBay intake, then go get a decent filter at Autozone" or similar. I've looked at a lot of these lately and that's just not true. The first tubing piece is critically important in dimensions, materials, and quality of fabrication, it has a significant impact on how your motor behaves, how responsive it is. If anything fails there, you're screwed. The pieces after the MAF are also important, but there assuming good materials and nicely flowing bends, adjustability is key when you're trying to route a 3" tube through a cutout between the inner fender and esp if you have a normal battery.

I'll post back when it's all assembled as a true CAI, then take it apart and send it back, I expect they'll be available soon thereafter.

Overall, people who want the cheapest possible intake available, that's not the market for this setup. Ditto for someone who needs an AEM sticker or similar, or just wants to spend up to a hundred bucks more. The people who like this will be looking for quality and performance at a reasonable price, good fitment, and not having to carry that roll of duct tape around in case your intake falls apart

I'm in the middle category where I want the things that work and can hold up, and on that count I'd say this rates a big "thumbs-up".

looking good!i'm definitely interested in the intake..lmk when it goes into production