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Thread: odyssey PC680 Opinions

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Posts: 31-40 of 43
2009-01-07 14:04:15
#31
do you guys think this battery can handle an electric w/p or would i be better off just relocating a full size batt?
2009-01-07 14:10:01
#32
I have that battery and I have an electric water pump for the past 3 years.

The battery has very little to do with the system when the car is on. What is most important is a damn good alternator. The batterys mane job is to start the car. Then you need to have an alternator that puts out enough power to supply the load ofr the electrical system and at the same time keeping the battery charged. If the Alt can not supply enough power for the electrical system the battery goes dead.
2009-01-07 14:17:07
#33
Originally Posted by Johnny
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v517/johnnywangwang/024.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v517/johnnywangwang/000_0741.jpg

Vadim, heat rises. I never understood why all these guy routed there intake to the top of the engine bay. This it a simple way to route your T25 intake that will suck in cooler air when the car is moving. Stock T25 lower intake piece with an AEM Dryflow filter. I still have this if you want to buy it cheap...or you can just steal the idea. I ran this setup until I switched my turbo for a bigger one. Now on the bigger one I run a similar setup


Yep I understand that hear rises, I am just limited to the 45* bend that has some plugs welded onto it. If I could get another shape or and just weld the recirculation and vc breathers onto them, then I will be better off.

I actually was thinking about running a straight pipe from the turbo and keeping the filter under the battery tray.

Now I also have a Pop charger, so I need 6" clearance hehe.
2009-01-07 14:31:16
#34
Originally Posted by Andreas
I have that battery and I have an electric water pump for the past 3 years.

The battery has very little to do with the system when the car is on. What is most important is a damn good alternator. The batterys mane job is to start the car. Then you need to have an alternator that puts out enough power to supply the load ofr the electrical system and at the same time keeping the battery charged. If the Alt can not supply enough power for the electrical system the battery goes dead.


I figured that was the case... just wanted confirmation from someone that knows more about it than I do. Thanks Dre.
2009-01-07 15:29:54
#35
would these batteries take a small speaker amp?
2009-01-07 15:31:18
#36
Originally Posted by dmp316
would these batteries take a small speaker amp?


please read a couple posts above
2009-01-07 15:55:04
#37
Ok thanks Dre reading>me
2009-01-08 01:55:25
#38
Miko, have you had this battery on your car with a system? Cause I have. Ive been through so many systems and batteries on these cars its not funny. From Running 2 1000watt Soundstream Class A amps (these amps are way cleaner but these pull way more current then the regular old class D's out there now) powering 2 15" Cerwin Vega Vega Series subs with teh amps turned all the way up, to small 300watt Soundstream Class A's powering one sub and an amp on the highs.

With even a 300watt amp this battery is not up to par. I dont care how big the alternator is. Your lights will blink horribly, your car will accelrate to the beat ect. Theres a reason people get big batterys to go with big alternators for systems. Putting a small 4 channel on the car will work with this battery. But I dont even think a cap will help with the blinking lights at all.
2009-01-08 02:14:44
#39
I dunno if by good alternator you mean stock nissan OEM or an OEM comparable that is upgraded to provide more capacity. My stock OEM alternator actually went to **** within a couple months of using the Odyssey.
2009-01-08 13:17:42
#40
Originally Posted by Johnny
Miko, have you had this battery on your car with a system? Cause I have. Ive been through so many systems and batteries on these cars its not funny. From Running 2 1000watt Soundstream Class A amps (these amps are way cleaner but these pull way more current then the regular old class D's out there now) powering 2 15" Cerwin Vega Vega Series subs with teh amps turned all the way up, to small 300watt Soundstream Class A's powering one sub and an amp on the highs.

With even a 300watt amp this battery is not up to par. I dont care how big the alternator is. Your lights will blink horribly, your car will accelrate to the beat ect. Theres a reason people get big batterys to go with big alternators for systems. Putting a small 4 channel on the car will work with this battery. But I dont even think a cap will help with the blinking lights at all.



I agree with what you are saying but the battery on a heavy duty stero system car is not there to have power pulled from it on a continuos basis, it is there for high surges.

The battery is there for compensating large surges or big power draws when the bass hits. The alternator is not designed to compensate for large fluctuations and this is why they go bad on heavy duty stereos. The battery backs up the Alternator for these reasons.

You need to understand that while a car sits at idle very little power is being put out and or passed to the battery, it is on a slow charge. This is when the battery backs up the alternator. When people pull up to events and play theirs systems full out they are at idle, this is when a big heavy duty battery is needed.

Now while the car is in motion let say at 4000 RPMs going down the road the alternator is more equiped to start to handle heavier loads.

Here is a example. If you have you car at idle and then turn on the lights and fog lights you will see the lights dim a bit. Now when you rev up the car to say 2000 RPMs the lights will come back to their original brightness.

On my STI, I had the same small battery, 400 Watt 4 channel amp for the speakers and 250 Watt Bazooka for bass. I had no problems with the car at all. Now STIs have heavier designed Alternators than say an SER.

There is a reason why they build specific Alternators for high powered car steros.
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