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HVAC blower/fan not working
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Thread: HVAC blower/fan not working

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Posts: 11-17 of 17
2008-12-16 01:33:52
#11
OK, I took pictures of that silver box that's blocking my way in extracting the blower motor. What is it, and can I somehow work around it? It is bolted into place in about 5 locations, none of which are easy to get to.



2008-12-16 04:45:35
#12
did you try the relays in the fuse panel. thats what was with mine.
2008-12-16 17:14:50
#13
An "I'm about to go out in the cold to deal with this" bump.
2008-12-16 21:35:32
#14
Will it ever end? I just want heat in my car! OK, I finally got the bloody thing out and now I need to figure out if I want to use the new one. After determining that a replacement I found wouldn't work, I bought one new locally, but it has a positive and negative wire coming out of it, no plug like the OEM one. Below are pics of the new one and the plug from the old one. Should I cut the plug off the old one and solder it to the new one? Should I just put male connectors on the wires and plug them into the connector on the car? Am I creating a fire hazard? To get the OEM one I'm look at spending over $100 more and waiting until next week to have heat/defrost in my car, not something I'm looking forward to especially since temps are currently in the teens. I just want to make sure I don't burn my car down since I don't usually mess with electronics.



2008-12-16 22:15:25
#15
Here is the thing, the stock one uses about a 5 wire plug correct, That is to allow the different voltages to come into the blower. Does the blower work on any settings or none at all. It could be your bower resistor pack, Pretty sure the b14's use the same thing as the b13's, But If you can test the plug to see if your getting the proper voltages to the blower that is the easiest thing to do. If you are its the motor and i would buy an oem one. I have a buddy that pulled all his stuff out of his b14 and he may have his still. It was in perfect working order. If you want it let me know. Now you could use the one you have with the positive and negative but you would have to tap into your connector, you can combine all 4 positive wires then wire it to the positive that way all your speeds should work if not choose the one you want and wire it accordingly.

I would just go with an oem one and save the wiring hacking
2008-12-17 01:00:21
#16
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Here is the thing, the stock one uses about a 5 wire plug correct, That is to allow the different voltages to come into the blower. I have a buddy that pulled all his stuff out of his b14 and he may have his still. It was in perfect working order. If you want it let me know.


Thanks for letting me know about your friend's B14 one, I might take you up on that if I can't figure this one you. The car-side of the connector has quite a few wires going into it, including from the resistor. However, the blower-side of the connector only has two wires, as shown in the pic in the previous post. It looks like the blower-side connector is just two male spade connectors, and if I connect the new one with two male spade connectors soldered on the wires to the car-side connector, it should be fine, right?
2008-12-18 21:08:25
#17
I ended up just crimping two male spade connectors on the blower motor wires and then put a drop of solder on the tip of the wire to make sure it wouldn't come out. After using a voltage meter on the car-side of the connector to determine which side was positive and which was negative, I slid the new spade connectors into the existing car-side plug. Then I wrapped the connector in electrical tape to prevent wires from pulling apart. After reconnecting everything and with a fire extinguisher by my side, I gave it a whirl and now have heat in my car, and not from an electrical fire either! Good times. I'll report back if I have any future issues with this install. The new Autozone motor doesn't move as much air as the OEM one, but it is close and worth the $100 difference in price.
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