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Thread: Brake setup

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Posts: 21-30 of 32
2007-12-31 12:32:08
#21
Originally Posted by Wilser93
which VW rotor are you referring to? I could probably search it on the old site but who wants to go there anymore...


Corrado, you'd have to drill out the center alittle.
2007-12-31 12:37:01
#22
Originally Posted by jerryeads
Been arguing with some of my favorite folks over in the classic section on this - What will make you safest on the street or fastest on the track is proper f/r balance, usually referred to as bias. I've learned (a few times the hard way :-) ) to believe whatever Dre says, but I don't know what the final bias is on his setup. With ad22vf's, stock rears, el cheapo rotors and Bobcats, the stock mc resulted in too much front bias - the rears (duh, of course) were helping even less than with the itsy bitsy stock fronts.

There are three solutions:
1. increase the swept area of the rears (e.g., maxima conversion). Unknown in terms of proper bias.

2. Install adjustable bias valving. Ideal; all you need to do is go out to the track (or an empty parking lot) and adjust for maximum braking (without having the rear end come around to say hi). BUT you have to cut into the system.

3. Dig up a new (yes, new, can't be had for sure as rebuild as the rebuilders don't differentiate nx vs. classic) nx2k mc with the proper valves (or take them off a wrecked one if you know they're original).

The nx2k bias valves (the funny looking six-sided pots screwed into the mc with the lines screwed into those) were set by the development engineers for those fat front brakes and small rears. 3 works pretty well; made a noticeable difference, especially with the worthless tires all my research led me astray to (BS RE950's). Greg can find the mc.


Greg himself was/is running the Ad22's with Axxis Ultimate up front, Maxima with OE pads in the rear with the Altima's m/c. He said the front will lock up first and they're great street/track setup.
2007-12-31 12:40:42
#23
Originally Posted by jerryeads
1. increase the swept area of the rears (e.g., maxima conversion). Unknown in terms of proper bias. 2. Install adjustable bias valving. Ideal; all you need to do is go out to the track (or an empty parking lot) and adjust for maximum braking (without having the rear end come around to say hi). BUT you have to cut into the system. 3. Dig up a new (yes, new, can't be had for sure as rebuild as the rebuilders don't differentiate nx vs. classic) nx2k mc with the proper valves (or take them off a wrecked one if you know they're original).


A fourth possibilty to improve balance if not totally resolve the problem: Increase the coefficient of friction of the rear pads up to the same level as the front pads. This should reduce the front bias without making the rears lock up first.
2007-12-31 19:23:01
#24
Originally Posted by billc
A fourth possibilty to improve balance if not totally resolve the problem: Increase the coefficient of friction of the rear pads up to the same level as the front pads. This should reduce the front bias without making the rears lock up first.


Thats true, it's just a very fine line, having the front lock up early offers a buffer of sorts.

On the street an emergency maneuver/panic stop with even a slightly unloaded rear suspension or a slick spot can toss the balance into a bad area.

I tried this out in a friends miata and it worked really well, once we got it worked out, doing braking runs in an empty parking lot when wet really helped keep things in a safe range
2008-01-01 21:55:54
#25
Guess I'm just more compulsive than most - see sig. RacerX did his homework on a wet pad (parking lot), I presume changing several different pads with different coefficients to optimize balance. I also presume Greg did the same sort of homework with the Maxima rotors/calipers (how'd he deal with 5 holes vs. 4?) and pads, but that sounds like a compromize, not an optimize. What bias valves did he use with that setup? Bill's certainly correct that fiddling with pads will also balance the system, but optimally that would require many sets of pads with graded coefficients. Most dedicated race cars have an adjustable bias valve accessible to the driver - because the bias will change with tire heat and wear - but that's over the top for our purposes in these cars, I'd wager. If I were as good a driver as I'd want to be I'd set up with both locking same, but as Racer pointed out, different conditions change the relative bias, so all in all it's indeed a street requirement for the fronts to always lock first. BUT, the more you can get out of your rears just prior to lock 4 the harder you'll stop, however you go about getting there.
2008-01-01 22:03:14
#26
Originally Posted by Keo
Corrado, you'd have to drill out the center alittle.


Not on the one I had. The rotor bolted on with no modification whatsoever.
2008-01-04 17:42:12
#27
Originally Posted by Nismo1997
Gonna need more info, whats the car gonna be used for? If you have spare cash to spend, Willwood brakes are the way to go! If its gonna be a street car, which you listed is good enought.


+1^

I love the 4-pot front Wilwoods on my B13 with the Corrado slotted rotors, Hawk HPS pads, B14/U13 master cyl and maxima brakes rear w/Nissan pads. I recently replaced the lines with set from Greg at Gpec - kevlar wrap/stainless, really stout lines, much tougher design than the goodbridge SS lines they replaced.

I have Brembo 4-pots on my other car, so I'm used to decent brakes - the braking on the B13 is just phenomenal. There's a little more flex in the Wilwood feel than with my Brembos, but wth, they're $3k a set instead of ~$800-900, and they don't have to stop a 3400 lb car, either.

More pics and info here:
Project SE-R - Wildwood - Fastbrakes
2008-01-04 17:59:19
#28
Originally Posted by Wilser93
which VW rotor are you referring to? I could probably search it on the old site but who wants to go there anymore...


I'm using the VW Corrado 0.81 x 11.0" rotors, but my only caution is with my B13 at least, they needed hub rings to fit properly. Just a little spacer - click on the pic to see it with the rotor:



With the upgraded MC I actually have just a slight amount of rear bias, it's a Nabco 97 Nissan U13 No-ABS MC that Dave C pulled out of a B14 project car of some sort. I can only lock up the rears if the road has some loose rock or sand, on clean pavement, the setup just stops. With the Kuhmo MX's, I have to do something really extreme to lock up the brakes - I've tried, considering they are non-ABS the fact they don't lock F or R easily at all tells me the balance is almost perfect.



The GSpec lines you can really see the difference compared to the last SS lines, worth every penny:


More pics and info HERE
2008-01-04 20:36:46
#29
I ran NX up front with panther pads and maxima rear calipers with axxiss ultimate pads. I used an altima non abs MC with stainless lines and the bias was great.

Brent
2008-01-06 03:27:44
#30
what's this I hear about the P10 rear calipers on the B13? Anybody running this setup? What rotors do we have to use with these. I'm planning on upgrading my rears so I'm debating which route is best. I'm planning on running Axxis Ultimetes all around.

Also pros and cons of the Altima MC as opposed to NX or B14 MC?
I notice we have several options as far as MC's, just seeing which one is favored over all.
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