The main reason to do the compression test is to make sure your focusing on "tune" isn't a waste of time - I expect with that mileage it will be fine, but you really have to check unless you want to risk some bucks on ignition parts and such. I mentioned "reset" for the ECU because if for some reason it's not reaching closed loop, it could hose your power, but the car would still run "ok". Normally that will also throw a CEL, but I've seen that not happen, too. All that takes is flat blade screwdriver, your keys, and a few minutes - instructions are all over the forums so I'm not going to repeat here, just to say its really easy.
Timing would be my next check, and believe me, I live in NW CT (plenty of sub-freezing and even sub-zero days) and did all kinds of work outside in the parking lot in Winter when I lived in apts or condo, it is not fun, but this is the easiest stuff to do even when it's cold out. Even now, if I have something else I my garage it's the kind of thing I would not bother to move the other car for. Try changing a water pump on a Ford Bronco II, now
that sucks in Winter outside in the parking lot! Coolant everywhere, POS parts, man I hated that rig.
If you learn the very easy basics of reading Nissan ECU codes, checking or setting the timing, replacing belts, plugs/wires/caps, your Nissan will pay you back with most likely 100% reliability and it will never strand you if you take even the most basic care of the car. You will be able to deal with 99% of the common issues you might run into. I have 140k on one, 130k on another, an neither car has ever let me down. One of them was kind enough to have its only dead battery, and only flat tire while sitting in the driveway.
The good news is you chose something that pays back the time you invest instead of sucking your time and wallet dry just to piss you off and fail anyway.