Thread: Time for a new "TRUE 2.0L RADIATOR" which one should I get?

I believe this radiator is the same one as made by Proliance. I have a proliance in my car right now. It has the same core thickness and a much higher fin count than the NX does. The inlet and outlet sizes are different but I still used them. If you get 1.6L rad hoses and slide them over the radiator, then cut the excess off, you will be able to slide your factory rad hose over the 1.6L hose and have a leak-free seal!

I have this done on my car right now with zero ill effects. over 13K on it so far. Now one would think that the smaller inlet and outlet would cause a flow restriction right? Well it doesn't. The thermostat opening is much smaller than the inlet and outlet of the radiator anyway and I have had zero issues with overheating since the rad was replaced. I am also using slim fans.

^Well I didn't want to get this radiator and I tried to buy a NX RAD with my WTB threads and it just didn't work out. I said if I did have to get a 1.6L inlet/outlet I might as well get the thick one. I had a guy that has a BNIB NX RAD, but it is in NC and he lives in GA. :/ He hasn't been able to make the trip up there to get, so that is still on pause.

After getting desparate, I bought this radiator so that I could drive my car to the convention, but it didn't come in time . Honestly, I was surprised when I opened the box last night. The quality is not bad. I guess the eBay intercooler/radiators could be considered to be in the same boat.



^I'm already doing that with a 1.6L radiator on my SE-R. The radiator is shot.

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^This is a rough draft I did in AutoCAD of what I will have done to it. I did this in 3D so that you could actually see what the part needs to look like. I copied the inlet piece and rotated it at 90 degrees so that you could get a better view.

RAIDATOR SETUP:

1.) SSAC header
2.) Stock Fans
3.) 1.6L/2.0L Godspeed 2"thick



^So the radiator fit perfect with the stock fans. The holes line up and everything. I just had to use my old 1.6L hoses and sleeve them into my 2.0L hoses for a tight fit on the inlet/outlet.




^Everything out, and ready to be put back in. I still need to get a bung to replace that broken egr piece that is screwed in at the bottom of the header. It will be taken care of because it looks real tacky and I didn't put it there, but it is not leaking for now.



^Radiator cap off my old radiator worked perfect.



^When I installed the radiator, I did it without the fans being attached.



^The driver side stock fan had to be modded a little to fit pass the stock battery tray/fuse box holder.



^I had to mod the passenger side fan as well to fit in smoothly. When you install the passenger side, you have to unscrewed the O2 sensor, or it want happen. The fan blade is real close to the O2 sensor, but it clears. I'll probably end of getting some slim fans for a piece of mind. I just wanted to see if I could get the stockers to work.



^Bottom driver side lined up well.




^Bottom passenger side lined up well.




^Then this ........The commentary of this is for the people I had to send a VID to that I bought it from. I got tired of them saying, we need more pics of the leak, so what's better than a VID? Anyway, I'm in the process of getting it taken care of. They said this had never happen , and that they will send me another one, but I'm just getting my money back. I'm going KOYO and Slim Fans like I should of done a long time ago. No more junk radiators for me.

I would take off that rad and get aluminum pipe that is the correct size grind off the small inlet and outlets and put the right ones on.

^That was the plan bro. Look at the bottom of post #133. I drew a rough draft up in AutoCAD of the piece I need. I just didn't put the circular tab on the back of the piece for the finished look. I had a local shop I called that was going to do it for me. I think I'm just going to get my money back and get a R1977 KOYO rad with 1-3/8 inlet/outlet and be done with it. Sometimes you get what you pay for. This time I got junk.

The raditor in my p10 is paper thin compared to the stock nx one. I think its the same as the thin b14 one.

Just to quote my post from earlier, so more people see it, after watching your video...

Just to quote for people scared of using the raditors with the smaller inlet and outlet size.

This is coming from a high hp vet guy.