Thread: Clutch failure UPDATES PROBLEM FOUND

First off, why don't we have a drivetrain section?
Anyways, as I posted earlier, I was having issues with my clutch and how it wasn't disengaging. I thought I was possible overcentering the clutch so I slacked up the cable and still nothing.

I went and got the 1"-3/4" reducer trick, and still nothing. Car refuse to go into gear.

Then I got to thinking, the way it's been making noises and the weird feel sounded familiar.
I remembered this:
ah crap. Transmission rattle.. pedal vibrates - HybridZ
Which ended up being this:
Clutch disengagement issue resolved - ACT clutch issue (Prox, this may apply to you) - HybridZ
(basically the rivets that hold the PP "fingers" stretched)

So I guess it's back to being carless for a few days while I tear the trans out... This is starting to get really annoying...

I'll post my findings, but I have a feeling the pressure plate has failed. This clutch was grabby and never slipped, but it kept getting more and more difficult to get into 1st and reverse once it warmed up, and I kept having to adjust the cable.

This has been thinking its a pressure plate failure. What do you all think?

EDITED for clarity

could be a bad cable or clutch. There might be something wrong with the arm as well. How old is the clutch? how old is the cable?

Edit: What clutch setup are you running? flywheel?

Stock flywheel and supposedly a 6 puck clutch and a better PP. I was dumb and didn't confirm this when I swapped the motor in.

At first pedal feel was great, still had adjustment in the cable and engagement wasn't too low like with the clutch in the previous engine. Problem just kept getting progressively worse.

The clutch arm can only be checked with the trans out right? I really don't feel like dropping it...

If it got progressivly worse it sounds like a cable. I would replace it with an OEM one.

I just went out and measured it. I get about 1.25" of travel at the arm on the tranny from fully out to fully pressed.

Does that sound about right? Or is my cable done for?

You say the clutch wasn't engaging but then you say it's hard to get into first and reverse at times. Does it grind when going into 1st and reverse? Because that's not trouble with clutch engagement, that's trouble with clutch disengagement which is a completely different animal with a whole different set of things to look for.

You could have nailed the problem with the pressure plate, but I'd first make absolutely sure you're not having trouble with clutch cable adjustment first.

Your TOB **** the bed, your TOB clips are broken into a million pieces, your PP fingers are messed up and your disc is cracked and spit out two springs.

Oh wait that's what happened to me . I still bet one of those things are your problem though.

Changed in the OP.

I've tried loosening, tightening, X amount of freeplay, etc, and nothing. I took the cable off the clutch arm and measured the travel, and it's about 1.25" as well, so I don't think it the clutch cable.

I think the PP **** the bed. I know how a failed throwout bearing feels/hears/etc. Dammit!

My TOB had no clips on it and was cracked all over. It did not make a single noise when I adjusted my pedal. I like you thought it was the travel of the arm. I changed out all the hydrolic and it still didn't work.

Here's my story if you care to read it. It's kinda long http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=82197&highlight=manual

UPDATES

I was weary that it was gonna have an eBay special clutch.
I think I was right.

It looks like a "F1 Racing" blue 6 puck piece of ****.

I wonder why it doesn't disengage?
Wait... Aren't these supposed to be in the clutch disk?


What's this on my bellhousing?


Oh, Mr. PP got up close and personal with the bellhousing...


Waco Tango Foxtrot?!?!


Hmm... I know these sprung hub disks are supposed to be good for preventing chatter and driveline shock. What about hand shock?
YouTube - El Cheapo Clutch

Well, going with a new OE replacement until I can afford a better one (it was a recent one from my DE). It was surprising easy to drop the trans by myself. I hope the OE replacement can hold a stock boost DET.