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Thread: Best and worst cars to work on...

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Posts: 51-60 of 73
2012-03-26 19:56:47
#51
The easiest cars to work on are those that are not mine. I have this ease of diving into things when they are not mine. I'll take way more apart much quicker to get to the bottom of things than I do on my own cars.
2012-03-29 15:15:27
#52
Originally Posted by BenFenner
The easiest cars to work on are those that are not mine. I have this ease of diving into things when they are not mine. I'll take way more apart much quicker to get to the bottom of things than I do on my own cars.


so true. I only sweat when I work on my own car
2012-03-29 15:46:50
#53
Worst Car = Pontiac Aztek. (Front wheel drive v6 with a Van type front end).
Best Car = My old 86' VW Jetta. That POS was the most reliable car I ever owned. The only major things I ever had to do was change the wheel bearings and brake pads.....
2012-03-29 17:20:09
#54
I didn't think my 4 cyl Accord would be painful to work on but oh was I mistaken. Granted, I don't have nearly the mechanical expertise as most of you, so I don't know all of the tricks of the trade but I'm slowly getting over my fears of doing more complex things on my car. Anyway, when I wanted to replace my rotors and brakes (which I've done before), I didn't realize that there are two retaining screws that need to be removed to release the rotor and apparently these screws rust and sieze. Thankfully I got them out with an impact driver but they're not even necessary, so I didn't reinstall them when I was finished. However, that easily doubled the amount of time it would've otherwise taken to do the job.

Clutch master cylinder was a pain because of where it's under the hood, so when I went to replace it I had no idea of how I was going to reach it to disconnect the hard line, but I got some crows foot wrenches and managed to replace it. What I am scared of is the day the starter goes, because on the 4 cyl models its directly in back of the intake manifold and there's no way to get around removing it.

Oil pan requires removing the axle, lower control arm, clutch slave cylinder/bracket assembly, transmission mount, and just a shitload of other stuff, so that wouldn't be a fun thing to fool with either.
Last edited by jharris on 2012-03-29 at 17-30-21.
2012-03-29 23:59:55
#55
Originally Posted by jharris
I didn't think my 4 cyl Accord would be painful to work on but oh was I mistaken. Granted, I don't have nearly the mechanical expertise as most of you, so I don't know all of the tricks of the trade but I'm slowly getting over my fears of doing more complex things on my car. Anyway, when I wanted to replace my rotors and brakes (which I've done before), I didn't realize that there are two retaining screws that need to be removed to release the rotor and apparently these screws rust and sieze. Thankfully I got them out with an impact driver but they're not even necessary, so I didn't reinstall them when I was finished. However, that easily doubled the amount of time it would've otherwise taken to do the job.

Clutch master cylinder was a pain because of where it's under the hood, so when I went to replace it I had no idea of how I was going to reach it to disconnect the hard line, but I got some crows foot wrenches and managed to replace it. What I am scared of is the day the starter goes, because on the 4 cyl models its directly in back of the intake manifold and there's no way to get around removing it.

Oil pan requires removing the axle, lower control arm, clutch slave cylinder/bracket assembly, transmission mount, and just a shitload of other stuff, so that wouldn't be a fun thing to fool with either.



some accords idk which years.. replacing the front rotors is plain stupid.. you need a press..=( to take apart the hub and replace the rotor smfh..
2012-03-30 00:18:23
#56
Im in the middle of doing a oil cooler on a 6.0L in an E450 ambulance. Talk about a pita you guys dont have a clue....have to remove the left side engine mount to get the lower alternator off. that is just coming off so i can get the idler assembly off to get to the fuel line bolted to the front of the head, but the job does pay 11hrs
2012-03-30 01:48:42
#57
Originally Posted by byronchrisp05
Im in the middle of doing a oil cooler on a 6.0L in an E450 ambulance. Talk about a pita you guys dont have a clue....have to remove the left side engine mount to get the lower alternator off. that is just coming off so i can get the idler assembly off to get to the fuel line bolted to the front of the head, but the job does pay 11hrs


Wow! Hopefully it won't run over that 11hrs, that sounds like a mess
2012-03-30 03:13:44
#58
Originally Posted by brianb13
some accords idk which years.. replacing the front rotors is plain stupid.. you need a press..=( to take apart the hub and replace the rotor smfh..


On some older Accords and Civics the rotor is held on by the axle nut. I've witnessed the aggrevation caused by trying to get that sucker loose. For all the glory Honda gets, they really do some stupid stuff sometimes.
Last edited by jharris on 2012-03-30 at 03-17-07.
2012-03-30 04:20:52
#59
Originally Posted by BenFenner
The easiest cars to work on are those that are not mine. I have this ease of diving into things when they are not mine. I'll take way more apart much quicker to get to the bottom of things than I do on my own cars.


Originally Posted by 95b14
so true. I only sweat when I work on my own car


+2. I actually enjoy working on a friend's car, but working on mine I just can't relax.

-G
2012-03-30 04:36:19
#60
I just remembered, 2.2 chevy s10.

WTF, I don't think GM put any thought as to how to place the accersories.
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