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Thread: How to: Install a Walbro fuel pump (B14)

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Posts: 1-10 of 10
2007-12-16 00:54:44
#1
How to: Install a Walbro fuel pump (B14)
coalitionSE-L from roastedpavement.com has a great write up you can find here.

Using that as a starting point, I have a few helpful tips I can add.

When you are working on any part of your fuel system, it’s not a bad idea to have a fire extinguisher handy.

Disconnect your negative battery terminal. You don’t want anything electrical to have power when you are working with the fuel.

Ventilation is very important. I opened everything and used a heavy duty shop fan blowing through the rear doors. That helped quite a bit.



When I got to the sending unit, it was filthy. I was afraid some debris might make it’s way into the fuel tank. Before removing it, I used a shop-vac and some rags to clean it up.





If you have a pre-disposition to f*cking up simple things (like I do), label the send and return lines when you remove them.





Having my camera with me and taking pictures along the way was also helpful. You can always refer back to the pictures of what things looked like before they were disassembled.



I also found it helpful to have a drain pan in the car as a parts tray. You don’t want to drip fuel all over your interior getting this stuff out of the car.





coalitionSE-L decided not to cover the portion of the install following Walbro’s instructions. I took some pictures, so here it is.

Open up the plastic case surrounding the stock fuel pump (no tricks here, it uses plastic clips that you will clearly see). Set the case aside. Lay out all of your parts, old and new. Take inventory to make sure you have all the new parts you need.





Remove the wiring harness and send line attached to the stock pump. Be sure to note the orientation of the send line.





Place the metal swell ring on the filter adapter.



Place the filter adapter on the base of the Walbro pump, using the locating stud to be sure you have it on correctly.



Secure the adapter using one of the two retaining rings provided in the kit. I used a 4mm socket to push it in place.





Secure the filter onto the filter adapter. Again, there is a locating stud to be sure you have it on correctly.



Use the other retaining ring (using the same 4mm socket procedure from above) to secure the filter to the filter adapter.

Install the original wiring harness and send line on the Walbro pump. Be sure to use the hose clamps provided in the kit instead of the old hardware. Position the new pump in the stock housing.



Replace the housing cover.



Now you’re ready to put the new pump in the fuel tank.
2007-12-16 03:51:08
#2
Thank you for the great writeup Swiss!

Which reminds me that I should probably replace my fuel pump...
2008-12-19 03:53:53
#3
Originally Posted by Vadim
I put it back int he car, but the Seal O Ring decided to expand on me. This is probably a common thing with a 10 year old seal...



Originally Posted by BenFenner
OMG that thing was a bitch. Mine did the same thing. I put it in the freezer for a while and that helped a bit. I got it back in with sheer grit, determination, and sold my soul to Chuck Norris.


Originally Posted by Benito
For the o-ring seal on the fuel pump I usually snip a tiny piece out of it and lay it in there. You can lay a bugger of schmoo on the broken end if you are really anal about the seal there but I don't. Works every time.

You could just order a new one. I think they cost next to nothing.


Originally Posted by blairellis
One thing that works out pretty good for old swollen seals is using some petroleum paste or jelly to keep one or multiple parts from moving around while you put the rest in the groove.


Originally Posted by Vadim
Oh I tried to play around with it, but no dice, so I just got back from the Stealership, paid $15 for a new one. It should be noted in the Fuel Pump install thread that you should order a new O Ring ahead of time. CourtesyParts has them almost half off.


Done. I actually ran into trouble with mine too, but I forgot to put it in the thread (I wrote that a few weeks after I did the fuel pump). I cut mine and wrapped the break with a few layers of electrical tape.
2008-12-19 04:12:27
#4
Yep I highly suggest having one handy before you do the replacement. If you get it ahead of time you can probably wait for it to ship from Courtesy, otherwise its $15 from the stealership.
2008-12-19 05:09:19
#5
nice write up
2008-12-20 01:45:42
#6
Great write-up and with high resolution detailed pictures. Thank you for posting this!!

This should be the same with the p10 & p11's
2009-02-09 00:16:15
#7
on a b13, the size comparison between the stock fuel pump, and the walbro is different.

I don't have a picture of the foam insert for the outside of it, but it's kinda like a can coozie. Then it fits perfect.

Thanks for the primo write-up.
2010-08-17 19:25:54
#8
I just changed over a fuel pump on one of my b13's. I knocked the oring loose. It expanded on me, lol. I kept telling myself don't knock it out of place, but alas it came loose. I'm going to have buy a new one. I've put in a new one on separate B13 and found that the brand new oring is still bigger than the diameter of the groove on the fuel tank. Has anybody else had a similar experience of getting a new oring that is larger in diameter?
2010-08-17 20:17:00
#9
Just cut it flush and use silicone temporarily until you get a new o-ring.
2012-05-25 02:15:38
#10
does anyone know which line from the pump goes into the cap left or right,
In the car looking towards the trunk
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