Hawaii, good work. Timken was a pain for me to get as well, so I jus ended up googling it and I ordered mine from:
Colonial Seal Company :: A Style :: A 12x22x6.5 NBR - OIL SEAL
I also got new bearings as well: Brand: NACHI. P/N 6200-2NSE. Size: 10x30x9
The oem parts if you guys didn't break it while taking it off is: ARS Oil seal and NTN bearings.
Although I've never heard of anyone needing to replace a bearing in their distributors in the sr20, I've experienced a faulty dizzy bearing in my b series honda engine back in the day. The symptoms; loud screech, coming from the area and if bad enuf like mine, it will kill ur motor since it would make ur camshaft stop spinning. U could damage valves or even ur whole engine if ur going fast enuf. Luckily for me, my car died while I was idling and I had to tow it back home. I didn't know what it was so I kept driving it....hehe. I ended up replacing the whole dizzy back then. I remember when I took out the dizzy, that thing froze and the shaft would not spin. So now, I figured while I have everything apart, ill jus replace it.
Some tips.
1. I used the screw for ur fuel injector cap to pound out the shaft. The thread is the same and I had a few extra screws laying around. I jus threaded the screw in and hammered the screw instead of the shaft
2. To unscrew everything, I left the screw in for the rotor so I can put a socket on it to hold the shaft and unscrew other components off
3. I believe the thicker seal would work as long as the ID is close wit the shaft as the seal is sealing the shaft pretty much. Wit the tighter 12mm fit, I actually damaged one so u have to be careful that its on the shaft before u proceed to hammer the bearing on. Also, as I rebuild more of these, I find the newer oe on the G20 has a spacer between the seal and the bearing. however, I've never used a thicker one myself. Since the seal sits so close to the shaft, it makes sense that as time progresses, the spinning shaft wears out the seal. So makes me think we need to replace these more often.