Thread: HOW: Most OBD II: Remove the Rear O2 Sensor

Yep, so far I've driven about 350 miles without a ECU reset, still no CEL so will see as I drove more

I d like to know about the three wire rear oxygen sensor & how to do it?? skeemr

I d like to know about the three wire rear oxygen sensor & how to do it?? skeemr 96 SER

any update with a solution to 3 wire o2 sensor solution

this is just an idea im messing with....

i looked up the rear o2 sensor and it cross references to a bosch 13783. which is a skinny heated 3 wired o2. now im guessing i could solder those 10 watt resisters in between the o2 sensor heater wires. Now im just tryin to figure out a solution for the signal wire, what if i did this, im thinking if i soldered the 1m ohm resister and 1 microfarad capacitor in parallel between the signal wire and an ground wire that might do the trick? does that capacitor and resister send back a changing signal back to the ecu?

Im no electronics expert , but seeing how the o2 sensor signal would ground itself through the exhaust pipe anyhow, providing a ground wire to your simulated sensor (1uFarad cap + 1Mohm reisister) should do the same thing.

Now im going to test this when my parts from radioshack come in, i will also throw in my oem ecu to test it with. so i dont **** up my jwt

tested it , been running a week now with about 200 miles and it works with the external ground wire. i grounded it to my drivers seat bolt. and the simulator sits under the seat. no code so far so good

Does your solution remove the sensor entirely? Am I reading that right?

You are adding a ground wire to the three wire setup, correct?

I'd be interested to know more.

yea its a sensor delete, yea im basically adding a ground wire, ive driven at least 1000 miles with no thrown codes, im assuming this is a fix. i just drove to maine and threw no codes as well. but for those who do this, make sure you 10watt resistors are put in a spot where they cant cause a fire, i just left mine wrapped in elec tape and inside a plastic container wrapped in more tape. those 10 watt resistors burned right through it all and started burning into my carpet under the seat, guess i should have left it out.

but yea for the 3 wire guys, just connect your 2 heater wires to the 10 watt resistor and wire the cap and resistor from your signal wire to a seperate ground wire in paralell, i grounded mine to the seatbolt.

when i did this i bundled all my components together in tape, and i think i damaged the smaller resister and capacitor from the heat. cause its throwing a code now after a couple trips, any how ill go back and re do this. im having some doubts about this solution while it doesnt throw codes the sensor never gets into a ready state
i also noticed this thread, dunno if theres any truth to it,
trinituner.com ::: View topic - sr20 oxygen sensor voltage

but maybe the 4 wire and 3 wire sensors operate differently with the ecu? perheps the 4 wire sends a varying voltage back to the ecu. and the 3 wire sends a different resistance? i dunno can anyone figure this out?

im in ny and cant get this car inspected unless it throws no codes and all but 1 sensors show not ready

Mine would throw a code after a good amount of miles. Now that was with my 99 ECU that is programed for 4 wire one.

With my 96 ecu, programed for the skinny 3 wire, it doesn't seem to be throwing a visual code, but I noticed Nissan Data Scan is picking up Rear O2 as being faulty.

I talked to DC Scotty about this matter, and he did mentioned that the resistors that I used are not the best choice. I'm going to try out a different set, that are designed for heat, and will see how it goes. I might just reinstall the O2 haha.