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Thread: HOW TO: P11/B15 transmission swap into a B13/B14/P10

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Posts: 1-10 of 51
2007-12-11 05:19:28
#1
HOW TO: P11/B15 transmission swap into a B13/B14/P10
by the great : MyprojectB13
Original thread can be found here with newer updates.


I finally finished installing a P11 transmission into my B13 and thought I would do my best to make a how-to guide for others interested in doing the same. I had read many times over that this was a simple bolt on affair with a simple swaping of a few parts, but found out myself that it is slightly more involved. There really isn't anything difficult about it, but there are some modifications that need to be made. In my post title I'm assuming that the P11 and B15 transmissions are identical. I'm also hoping that Slow96R and SR20Turbofreak will chime in with the specifics for the B14 and P10 respectively.

Clutch Cable Bracket
-The first thing you'll notice on the P11 trans is how the clutch is actuated differently. The P11 uses a hydraulic slave cylinder to engage the clutch instead of a cable.
-Simply unbolt the slave cylinder.

-You can see the holes are there to mount the clutch cable bracket from your B13. The rear set of holes is set back further than on the B13 and may allow those using small spacers to completely eliminate the spacer.
*On my specific car, my spacer and the rear holes made for too tight of a clutch cable. I used the front holes, which have a slightly different pattern, and required drilling the holes on the bracket larger. I also needed to notch the bracket to keep it from hitting the clutch arm.

Clutch Arm
-Remove the clutch arm in the P11 trans by removing the roll pins(arrows).
*There is an inner and outer roll pin, remove the inner first then the outer.

-Do the same to your B13 trans.


-Here you can see the differences between the two clutch arms.

-The most important difference is the difference in thickness at the bottom of the shaft. This prevents the B13 arm from seating fully in the P11 trans and doesn't allow the throwout bearing to line up properly.
Last edited by Vadim on 2011-06-21 at 17-37-45.
2007-12-11 05:19:59
#2
-To fix this I used a bench grinder and carefully removed material from the B13 shaft.


-Since the B13 arm sits in a completely different location than the P11 arm, the vent tube had an interference problem with the weight on the B13 arm. Nothing an angle grinder can't fix.


-Install the B13 arm into the P11 trans. Don't forget the return spring from the B13 trans.
*Install the outer roll pins first then the inner pins.

-It's now ready to go in, almost...


Motor Mount
-The P11 uses a different trans mount than the B13. It uses a top mount that uses 4 bolt holes on the top of the trans(black arrows).
-Lucky for us the trans is still drilled and tapped for the B13 trans mount(white arrows).

*The holes were pretty dirty so I used some antiseeze on a bolt and ran it through the holes. You could also use a M10X1.50 tap to clean them up.
Last edited by Vadim on 2011-06-20 at 13-03-06.
2007-12-11 05:20:34
#3
Speed Sensor
-Simply undo the electrical sensor on the P11 and replace it with the B13 sensor.
*This is for 91-93 cars with mechanical speedometers. I do not know if the P11 sensor is compatible with the electronic speedometers in the B13.



Drain/Fill Plug
-The P11 uses a 10mm allen to remove the fill plug and a 14mm allen for the drain plug vs. the B13's 3/8" and 1/2" tools.


Sensors
-The reverse and neutral position sensor from the B13 are sized differently than the P11 sensors and can't be swapped. The harnesses are also different.
*I've yet to tackle this, but I plan on rewiring my B13 with the correct harnesses to fit the P11 sensors. Stay tuned for wiring details and part numbers.

Shifter rod/stabalizer
-This is where it becomes not quite a bolt on affair. On the P11 the shifter stabalizer mounts to the trans, where as on the B13 it mounts to the rear motor mount.
-Remove the bracket from the trans.


-Because of this difference the shifter rod sits further to the passenger side and interferes with the B13 stabalizer rod mount.
-This requires some major grinding and is alot easier to do with the trans out of the car. I grinded enough off until I could get the trans to bolt up.
-I thought I had grinded enough off, until I bolted up the rear mount. With the motor in its final position, the stabalizer mount was still hitting on the shifter rod.
-I trimmed a little off the shifter rod until it fit.
*This was the hardest part of the whole install, but overall not that difficult. Pictures coming soon.

Hope this helps people contemplating the swap. This will be my 4th trans since March, so I was willing to try something a little different. Slow96R, SR20Turbofreak, and javierb14 have had good luck with this trans and big power, so I hope it works out for me. :biggthump

EDIT:
B14 - From what Slow96R told me, you need to do the same modifications for a B14.

P10 - From what SR20Turbofreak told me, on a P10 you won't have a clearance problem with the stabilizer mount. This is because the P10 uses a different crossmember that sits more to the passenger side giving you the clearance you need.[/quote]
2007-12-11 13:37:53
#4
Additional Updates:
Originally Posted by nismonx2000
Hi guys, i just wanted to show some pics of how i cut my shifter stabilizer bar so that it doesnt bind with the shifter bar. It shifts great and all the grinding was done with just a dremel tool.

As you can see, pretty much all you have to do is cut the bottom half off of the mount.




Originally Posted by PhorB13
A few things about this swap:
1. When wiring the switches, I used and matched up at least ONE of the wires with what was on the chassis itself. So for one, I matched up the two black wires, on the other I matched up the green/yellow wire. Figured that at least one of the wires would be consistent, and they were. So just a heads up about that.
2. The tap that is used/needed for the trans bracket is NOT an M10-1.25!! It's a M10x1.5 That should be edited by the original poster.
3. When cutting the shifter stabilizer so the shifter rod doesn't bind on it, be aware that the shifter in the car will have more free play. I am going to go with this as a way to gain some of that positive feel back: CHEAP alternative to shifter stabilizer bracket - SR20 Forum

I hope this helps out all those in the future doing this upgrade.


Originally Posted by gomba
Why isn't the original post getting updated with this info? Mods!

Also, this how-to needs to include that to get those roll pins out you need a punch set. We wasted about 2 hours driving around trying to find this set(after trying with screw drivers and other misc things). Harbor Freight ended up having a set. Sears would have it also.

Here it is at harbor freight and what they look like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-punch-set-93424.html


Also, it was unclear if we needed to grind down the bracket thing that's on the tranny or the shift stabilizer bracket and it's the shift stabilizer bracket and not the bracket on the tranny. Only thing needing grinding on the tranny is for the clutch arm stuff(and there's really nothing ground on the tranny itself, it's the cable arm). If you're grinding anything on the tranny except the clutch cable arm you're doing something wrong.

Other than the grinding and the punch tool, the swap is pretty smooth. I think we could have done it in half the time if done over and with the right info.

-G
Last edited by Vadim on 2011-06-20 at 17-22-41.
2007-12-12 14:14:04
#5
hey mods please move this to how to section
2007-12-12 20:25:22
#6
Thanks for moving this over, I'm going to move my images and will give you the new links to update the post.
2007-12-12 21:04:57
#7
okidoki mate
2008-02-12 19:57:58
#8
Any luck with the pics?
2008-03-01 22:50:17
#9
Im a noob into this thing since I got my b13, so that I'm just wondering... whats the sense of this switch?? I was analizing and I think that maybe it's good on gas mileage but not sure.
2008-03-02 06:37:41
#10
Originally Posted by jquesadar
Im a noob into this thing since I got my b13, so that I'm just wondering... whats the sense of this switch?? I was analizing and I think that maybe it's good on gas mileage but not sure.


They are a great deal stronger than the pre 2000 trannies. The b15 tranny also has shorter gearing than the b13/b14, and the p11 tranny has longer gearing than the b13/b14.
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