Thread: How to Replace a Rear Wheel Bearing

This should be the same for all models, or at least very similar .

When buying wheel bearings try to stick to OEM or high quality aftermarket. I bought some from NAPA, not only did one of them didn't fit right it gave out after 5 months. Timken seems to be a pretty good OEM alternative. Part number #512025.

Steps

Start by removing the wheel, all break parts and the rotor. Make sure the car is on level surface and put tire blockers, because you will need to release the handbrake. Remove the axle dust cap, try not to damage so that you can reuse them.


If you buy Timken, you won't get any studs, so be ready to buy some or use your old ones.

First you will need to get them out, screw in the lug nut all the way, then give it a good whack. Try to use some older lug nuts that you no longer need.



Now comes the fun part, removing the old wheel bearing. It can be very easy or very hard. Pulley puller is definitely a big help here.


Then the next fun part is getting the rest of the wheel bearing parts.


Pulley Puller to the rescue again


Pliers got the rest


The axle was a bit rusted, explains why it had a hard time coming off


Some sand paper later:


Next would be to install the studs into the wheel bearing. Carefully hit them with the hammer to put in place. You don't want these to come loose while driving .



Install the bearing onto the axle



Tighten down the axle nut to 137 - 188ft-lb. A breaker bar helps


Good idea to also pick up some cotter pins, having extra never hurts




Install the dust cap



Install all the brake components and put the wheel on and tighten the wheel. While the hand brake is off check the wheel bearing for play by moving it in and out on the sides of the wheel and top and bottom.

Very well done!

Ha thanks, but I will say this is one of my least professional ones. I just felt like sharing without spending to much time

looks like you're missing your spliney retainer cap thing that the cotter pin goes through!

Huh where?

Yah I wasn't sure if they were on the rear or not. The cotter pin is kinda silly without it, no? =]

When I replaced mine, there was none on the rear.
It was a direct pull off and place on.

Anyone got any pictures of what it's supposed to be?

does anyone have a torque spec for the large bolt in the center of the hub?

is it like the old style hubs where you put them on lightly, just barely snug? or 100+ lbs of torque? I've heard both from reliable sources and I'm not sure who to believe, my FSM is on my PC which is not set up at my new apartment yet..

Is this procedure good for 91-94 SER's also? If not, is it easier/harder? Thanks!!