Thread: HOW TO: Change Timing Chain Tensioner

The swap is a easy 1,2,3 swpa to upgrade to the new tensioner. I removed the upper chain guide after I found that the new motors with the new tensioner dont have upper chain guides.

Awesome thread. My NX has the morning start click click click click click so I will be buying one of these.

So I bought one of these from Jrios at Nissanparts.org. He said Nissan recommends removing the upper chain guide when you do this. He also said the older style tensioners aren't even made any more.

Is the upper guide the 2-3'' metal piece between the cam sprockets? That's what I was thinking it was, but I think I have seen a couple pictures where a bigger looking piece was labeled as the upper guide?

Also, in a thread linked from this thread, Ashton says you have to put the engine to top dead center to do this, but no one else has mentioned this. Is it necessary?

Final question: When cranking the engine by hand to get the tensioner to pop out, is it important which way you turn the pulley?

Yes, take the top guide off that is between the two sprockets held on by two bolts.

The reason you put it at tdc when doing this is to get the pressure off the rockers. Kind of hard to explain without a video but when there are lobes pushing hard against a rocker, once you pull the tensioner out, there will be nothing holding the chain tight and it will cause the cam to turn back slightly. Almost guaranteed to jump a tooth on that sprocket when that happens.

When I put the tensioner back in I usually just use a long screw driver or pick to unhook and let the tensioner out. Then I will turn the motor over a few times and recheck the cam timing to make sure it didn't jump a tooth anywhere.

Thanks. I think I understand what you're saying about why putting the engine to tdc is important. If you put cyl #1 at tdc though, wouldn't there still be pressure on the lobes/rockers on the other cylinders that would cause the cam to rotate after removing the tensioner? Sorry if that's a dumb question, I'm a n00b (obviously).

Do you think zip-tying the cam sprockets together (say at the top and bottom of the sprocket) in addition to zip tying the chain to the sprockets would help?

Man, now checking cam timing is involved... time to read up on that...

Yes, at tdc there will still be a little pressure on some lobes, but it's a small enough amount that the cam will stay put. Zip tying the chain to the sprockets is always recommended.

After you are finished, turn the motor over by hand a couple of full revolutions and put the no.1 cyl back at tdc. Then make sure the the dowel(not the dot on the sprocket) of the intake cam is at 10 o'clock, and the dowel of the exhaust cam is at 12 o'clock. Then make sure there are 20 rollers of the chain BETWEEN the dots on the cam gears. Then you are finished.

Awesome. Thanks!

I have a question about this new tensioner. All 98's and above SR20DE engines have this new tensioner? No timing chain guides either on these motors?

assuming ga16's also have this? mines not noisy at all but it does have 110k on it so i might as well do it huh?