How to:Install a clutch
I did this writeup after my last clutch install...I searched and used other peoples posts and write ups when I did mine, but each one lacked some info. I decided to do a more detailed version combining all the info,along with some things I added.
Please feel free to add anything I may have forgotten,as I am sure there is something.
A few notes before starting,based on my recent experience
I did this by myself,but I recommend that you try to have someone help.It would make things alot easier and faster.
The car has to be very high off the ground for the tranny to clear.
I found it easier and safer to back the car up on ramps,set the parking brake, and then raise the front of the car up slightly higher than the back.This gives you alot of room to work,and is alot safer,since the car is almost level,instead of pointing up at the sky.
I put jack-stands under the front sub-frame ,kinda behind the front control arms.This helps give you some room when you are working under the car.
I have a motorcycle/ATV jack .It works great for lowering the tranny, and rolling it out.
Parts needed
Tools needed or recommended (assuming you don't have air tools)
How-to (this was the order that I did things)
1) Loosen lug-nuts,and axle nuts(32mm,BABB) before jacking up the front of the car.
2) Jack car up high enough for the tranny to clear the drivers side fender and wheel well. I put the rear tires on ramps and raised the front a little higher than level. I put the jack-stands behind the front lower control arms,there's a nice flat spot on the sub-frame.
3) Disconnect and remove battery,and air intake down to the throttle body. If you unhook it at the TB,you can usually remove most of the intake in one piece.
4) Unhook Clutch cable from the pivot arm on the transmission.Now is a good time to replace the cable if you want.
5) Unplug any harnesses you see connected to the tranny ,and unhook ground wires.
6) Unhook speedometer cable from top of tranny(or unplug the sensor,for 93 and up electronic speedo). Hard to get to on top of trans ,under intake manifold,firewall side of engine. Has a collar that should be hand tight(probably not)...I used pliers on it,which can be tricky too.
7) Remove front wheels,and splash guards from under the engine in front and on the drivers side(if you have them,still)
8) Find the FILL plug on the front of the trans(1/2 in. BABB or ratchet).Remove it first,just to make sure you will be able to fill the trans when you are done.If you drain it and then you can't get the fill plug out ,you will not be happy.(ask me how I know).Then put it back in loosely,since you will be filling it up later.
9) Now you ready to find the DRAIN plug under the trans(3/8 ratchet).Drain the gear oil.
10) While it is draining,start removing the axles.Go to the drivers side first.
11) Remove passenger side axle.Same as drivers side, except you also need to remove the 3 bolts in the axle carrier(12mm).
12) Get back under car,put the drain plug back in,and get rid of the drain pan.
13) Unhook shifter linkage(12mm nut and bolt) and disconnect any electrical connections under there. I did not need to unhook starter wires.
14) Remove the 4 bolts toward the back of the car that hold the tranny to the block(3 are 14mm,the other is 17mm) careful selection of sockets,extensions,etc .are key here.These can be fun to remove. Pay attention to what bolts go where.
15) Support tranny with the jack and remove the tranny mount bolts under battery(3 bolts 14mm). These bolts will be easier to remove if you have just the right amount of support with the jack,so the bolts aren't supporting the weight of the tranny.
16) Remove all remaining bolts that hold the tranny to the block.(all are 17mm except the starter bolts which are 14 mm). The starter just kinda stayed in place after the bolts were removed,but I guess you could take it all the way out if you want(why?). Pay attention to what bolts go where.
17) Now double check that all the bolts are out,and all electrical connections are unhooked.You are ready to remove the transmission.
18) Slide transmission toward drivers side,while lifting up.You may need to CAREFULLY pry them apart a little to get them started. If it seems like there is still a bolt holding it somewhere....there probably is one.Look again.It should come apart fairly easily. This is where a second person comes in real handy.One person can get under and one holding it up from the top.
19) Remove clutch, pressure plate(12mm) and flywheel to access rear main seal.Resurface flywheel before reinstalling.
20) Replace engine rear main seal at this time,if applicable.
21) Replace axle seals on tranny at this time. Be careful not to damage the trans or the mating surface of the seals when removing,or you will have leaks. I use the old seal to drive the new ones in,since they are the same size. Make sure to put the seals in straight and only until FLUSH with the case,or you will have leaks.They will go in farther if you are not patient and careful. OEM Nissan axle seals do not need any prep they have a coating on them that seals them.I have read that some people use RTV or gasket sealer on them,but that would make them hard to remove later.I have not had any leaks when they are installed correctly.
22) Install new throwout bearing and clips. A little grease on the shaft won't hurt,just don't get all crazy with it.
23) Install flywheel ,and clutch assy,using the alignment tool to line it all up right.
24) Reinstall tranny onto engine,making sure to line up the dowels(pegs) and don't force anything.
25) Put all the bolts back in the tranny,install the axles,hookup the electrical connections and shifter linkage.
26) Back up top...Hookup the speedo cable,clutch cable,remaining electrical connections and grounds.
27) Reinstall intake and battery. Put splash guards and wheels back on.
28) Get car level to FILL WITH GEAR OIL.
I use a clear hose on a funnel to fill. Tranny is full when fluid runs back out the hole.4-quarts or less depending on how much was trapped in there after draining.
29) Wash your hands,pat yourself on the back,and go for a test drive!
Just Print this out and go to it!!
Jay
Please feel free to add anything I may have forgotten,as I am sure there is something.
A few notes before starting,based on my recent experience
I did this by myself,but I recommend that you try to have someone help.It would make things alot easier and faster.
The car has to be very high off the ground for the tranny to clear.
I found it easier and safer to back the car up on ramps,set the parking brake, and then raise the front of the car up slightly higher than the back.This gives you alot of room to work,and is alot safer,since the car is almost level,instead of pointing up at the sky.
I put jack-stands under the front sub-frame ,kinda behind the front control arms.This helps give you some room when you are working under the car.
I have a motorcycle/ATV jack .It works great for lowering the tranny, and rolling it out.
Parts needed
- Clutch and pressure plate of your choice
- TOB(throw out bearing)and clips,pilot bushing
- Alignment tool
- new cotter pins for axles(or try to re-use the old ones if possible)
- Axle seals(optional)
- Rear main seal(optional)
- Lightweight flywheel(or resurface the stock one)
- 4 qts. Gear oil of your choice(Redline MT-90 is what I use)
- Funnel and hose for filling tranny,without making a huge mess
Tools needed or recommended (assuming you don't have air tools)
- 1 or 2 jacks,one for supporting the engine,one for lowering the tranny(trans jack or ATV/motorcycle jack works great)
- Jack stands,and ramps if you have them
- Lug-wrench
- BABB (Big Ass Breaker Bar)1/2 "drive
- 10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm,sockets and wrenches 3/8 "drive
- Ratchets,socket extensions, and swivels
- 32mm socket for axle nuts(1/2 "drive for BABB)
- needle-nose or regular pliers
- phillips and flat screw drivers
- pry-bar
- hammer
- block of wood or small 2x4
- disposable gloves(Walgreen's 3.99 for 100 vinyl gloves)I prefer vinyl,they are stronger,but latex(like the hospital ones) will work
- Hand cleaner
- Rags,and/or paper towels
How-to (this was the order that I did things)
1) Loosen lug-nuts,and axle nuts(32mm,BABB) before jacking up the front of the car.
2) Jack car up high enough for the tranny to clear the drivers side fender and wheel well. I put the rear tires on ramps and raised the front a little higher than level. I put the jack-stands behind the front lower control arms,there's a nice flat spot on the sub-frame.
3) Disconnect and remove battery,and air intake down to the throttle body. If you unhook it at the TB,you can usually remove most of the intake in one piece.
4) Unhook Clutch cable from the pivot arm on the transmission.Now is a good time to replace the cable if you want.
5) Unplug any harnesses you see connected to the tranny ,and unhook ground wires.
6) Unhook speedometer cable from top of tranny(or unplug the sensor,for 93 and up electronic speedo). Hard to get to on top of trans ,under intake manifold,firewall side of engine. Has a collar that should be hand tight(probably not)...I used pliers on it,which can be tricky too.
7) Remove front wheels,and splash guards from under the engine in front and on the drivers side(if you have them,still)
8) Find the FILL plug on the front of the trans(1/2 in. BABB or ratchet).Remove it first,just to make sure you will be able to fill the trans when you are done.If you drain it and then you can't get the fill plug out ,you will not be happy.(ask me how I know).Then put it back in loosely,since you will be filling it up later.
9) Now you ready to find the DRAIN plug under the trans(3/8 ratchet).Drain the gear oil.
10) While it is draining,start removing the axles.Go to the drivers side first.
- Unhook the brake line from the strut by removing the clip,and pushing up on the fitting.(screwdriver on clip). There is no need to remove the calipers if you do this.There will be enough slack to let the hub assy rotate fully,without putting any strain on the brake lines
- Remove the axle nut
- Remove the 2 bolts that hold the strut to the hub assy(17mm)
- Grab the hub assy and pull toward you to detach it from the strut.The entire hub will swing away towards the rear of the car.Pay attention to the brake lines,not to damage them.
- The axle should slide out the back of the hub as it flops over.If not,put the axle nut back on a few threads.Use a 2x4 or block of wood and a hammer to "persuade it".Once it is freed up,remove the nut and it should come out.You can also turn the steering wheel all the way toward the side you are working on to get more clearance for the axle to slide out.
- Once the axle is out of the hub,you just yank it out of the tranny.You can pry it out if you want,but be VERY CAREFUL not to hurt the tranny case or seals when you do.
11) Remove passenger side axle.Same as drivers side, except you also need to remove the 3 bolts in the axle carrier(12mm).
12) Get back under car,put the drain plug back in,and get rid of the drain pan.
13) Unhook shifter linkage(12mm nut and bolt) and disconnect any electrical connections under there. I did not need to unhook starter wires.
14) Remove the 4 bolts toward the back of the car that hold the tranny to the block(3 are 14mm,the other is 17mm) careful selection of sockets,extensions,etc .are key here.These can be fun to remove. Pay attention to what bolts go where.
15) Support tranny with the jack and remove the tranny mount bolts under battery(3 bolts 14mm). These bolts will be easier to remove if you have just the right amount of support with the jack,so the bolts aren't supporting the weight of the tranny.
16) Remove all remaining bolts that hold the tranny to the block.(all are 17mm except the starter bolts which are 14 mm). The starter just kinda stayed in place after the bolts were removed,but I guess you could take it all the way out if you want(why?). Pay attention to what bolts go where.
17) Now double check that all the bolts are out,and all electrical connections are unhooked.You are ready to remove the transmission.
18) Slide transmission toward drivers side,while lifting up.You may need to CAREFULLY pry them apart a little to get them started. If it seems like there is still a bolt holding it somewhere....there probably is one.Look again.It should come apart fairly easily. This is where a second person comes in real handy.One person can get under and one holding it up from the top.
19) Remove clutch, pressure plate(12mm) and flywheel to access rear main seal.Resurface flywheel before reinstalling.
20) Replace engine rear main seal at this time,if applicable.
21) Replace axle seals on tranny at this time. Be careful not to damage the trans or the mating surface of the seals when removing,or you will have leaks. I use the old seal to drive the new ones in,since they are the same size. Make sure to put the seals in straight and only until FLUSH with the case,or you will have leaks.They will go in farther if you are not patient and careful. OEM Nissan axle seals do not need any prep they have a coating on them that seals them.I have read that some people use RTV or gasket sealer on them,but that would make them hard to remove later.I have not had any leaks when they are installed correctly.
22) Install new throwout bearing and clips. A little grease on the shaft won't hurt,just don't get all crazy with it.
23) Install flywheel ,and clutch assy,using the alignment tool to line it all up right.
24) Reinstall tranny onto engine,making sure to line up the dowels(pegs) and don't force anything.
25) Put all the bolts back in the tranny,install the axles,hookup the electrical connections and shifter linkage.
26) Back up top...Hookup the speedo cable,clutch cable,remaining electrical connections and grounds.
27) Reinstall intake and battery. Put splash guards and wheels back on.
28) Get car level to FILL WITH GEAR OIL.
I use a clear hose on a funnel to fill. Tranny is full when fluid runs back out the hole.4-quarts or less depending on how much was trapped in there after draining.
29) Wash your hands,pat yourself on the back,and go for a test drive!
Just Print this out and go to it!!
Jay
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Originally Posted by Topdog781 
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