Thread: How To: Change your oil. With Pictures!

How To: change your oil. The basics.

This is an easy task for many but this write-up is for the few who need some help in learning how to do the basic wrenching.

First off you should buy your oil brand of choice. I prefer Mobil, but any dyno, synthetic blend or full synthetic should do just fine. 5w30 is the FSM recommended viscosity and it is what I use in my NA p10.



FSM oil Viscosity illustration for reference:


Next gather the tools that are needed: 14mm wrench (for the drain plug), Oil filter wrench (optional) and ramps (also optional).

Remember the sr20de takes 3 5/8’s qt when replacing the oil filter and 3 3/8’s qt when you decide not to replace the oil filter. The later is not recommended, you should always replace your oil filter when replacing your oil.

It is also recommended by most to use OEM Nissan oil filters. Reason being is they have a drain back valve on them that stops the oil from leaking out of the filter when the motor is shut down. Thus keeping the filter primed giving you less of a chance for damage when starting up your motor.

Dunkin Donuts Coffee Recommended but not required



Ok here we go; you got your 4 qt’s of oil and your oil filter?

Good. Now park you car with the e-brake on, on a flat level surface or up on ramps to make it easier. Chock the wheels if you’re using ramps just to be on the safe side.

Pop your hood



Now unscrew your oil filler cap, doing this will let the oil flow out quickly and smoothly.



Next thing you will need to do is get your oil pan and place it under your oil drain plug.

Now unscrew your oil plug and let it drain into the oil pan. Try to get your drain plug and you hand out of the way as quick as you can so the oil doesn’t run down you wrist.. It sucks when this happens.

Unscrew



And drain



While your oil is draining you can replace your filter, clean the drain plug and replace the copper gasket on it. Make sure to saturate the rubber gasket on you new oil filter with some new or old oil. Doing this ensures your new filter will have a clean tight seal on the oil filter assembly.

Remove oil filter B15/P11 sr20 view



This is the location of the oil filter for the p10,b13,b14 and 99 p11 (non Roller Rocker).



As you can see on the p10,b13,b14 and the non roller rocker p11 you have just enough room to put on the filter wrench and your Craftsman professional polished 9" ratchet (I love using that thing ).



FSM illustration of the filter location for the p10,b13,b14 and 99 p11 (non Roller).



Place your new filter on (The FSM states to tighten filter until a slight resistance is felt, Then tighten an additional 2/3rds of a turn)



Next clean off your drain plug



Take off the old copper gasket



And replace it with a shiny new one



&



Now replace the drain plug



And tighten making sure the new copper gasket is fully compressed to the proper torque specifications. (FSM states 22-29 ft-lbs)



Done? OK.. now lets filler’ up with the new oil. 3 5/8 qt’s later and you should be ready to go.



Before starting the car back up I usually unplug both connectors on the distributor and crank the car over until the oil light goes out ensuring the motor is fully primed.

Now that the motor is all primed you should plug you distributor plugs back in and start her up. Let the motor idle for a few seconds and shut it down. Now check the oil level and you should be all set.

Go drive the hell out of it!

Mike

1999 P11 filters are up top like the b13s

Thanks.. I did know that but I forgot to mention it I updated the write up with pictures of the filter location and the FSM illustration showing the recommended oil viscosity.

Mike

You can also substitute the 65F00 filter with the longer 9E000 OEM Nissan filter if you so desire.


Also if someone has never done an oil change before, you want to pull/push the 14 MM wrench towards the pass. side to loosen.

When i 1st tried to change my oil many moons ago i almost stripped the drain bolt by pulling it towards the driver side ( before knowing about lefty loosey, righty tighty ) LOL.

words to live by. i thought i was doing a good job with these oil changes, but i never knew that i should replace that copper gasket. good info.

You don't really need to replace the copper gasket every time. I replace mine when ever I get the chance. Maybe every other oil change.

Mike

So for a VE 5w30 would also be preferred?

I would guess. I don't know what the FSM calls for on it but I don't think it would be different.

Mike

Great write up Mike. I know how helpful this would of been to me when I was starting off working on the SE-R so many years ago now. We've all got to start somewhere and what a great starting point changing your own oil is.

The only advice I would add is to create a mental checklist before you start the car... after all these years I still always ask myself 4 things. Did I tighten down the drain bolt, did I tighten the new oil filter, did I put the new oil in, and did I tighten down the oil cap. Again, seemingly simple things but it's all too easy to have a phone call or other interruption come up during the 30 mins or so I typically take to replace the oil. A tip I learned a few years ago working as a tech was to wrap the oil cap in a shop towel and place it on the hood latch... that way you can't close the hood and drive off with a half finished job. It's basically an easy visual clue that you're not done with the job yet.

- Brad

i donno if you did this but didnt include it, but i myself like to add oil into the new filter. before start up on oil changes