Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Register
SR20 forum logo

Thread: Which Rear Swaybar for a P11?

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 11-17 of 17
2011-08-19 10:00:34
#11
Does anyone know how these compare for stiffness to the Whiteline rear bars? I would like to change my whiteline bar for one that tucks into the beam so its not visible. The whiteline bar really sticks out under the rear of the car, and i'm trying to go with the 'understated' look externally (I have an N15/B14).

I've read a few things regarding the stiffness between hollow and solid bars vs their weight and i'm interested to try a hollow bar, shipping to australia for something that size would be killer though i guess, but if anyone has one of the hollow stillen bars, shoot me a PM.
2011-08-19 10:23:09
#12
Originally Posted by Dema

why would u want to get rid of understeer? u no like FWD drifting?


^This
2011-08-19 10:37:44
#13
the more solid the bar is, the stronger it is.
stillen is sort of hollow but its really heavy.
it bolts on the rear beam arms, so idk how stron it is.
i think its dumb, heavy, might fall off and usless, so i never put it on.
but if the " roll" l_l bar is too strong it can cause wheel hop when your turning and hitting bumps bc you " box " your suspension. so u bounce like a box [] and throw a differental in the mix and you major wheel hop.
but im not a racecar driver soo idk.
2011-08-19 11:01:21
#14
Originally Posted by Dema
the more solid the bar is, the stronger it is.
stillen is sort of hollow but its really heavy.
it bolts on the rear beam arms, so idk how stron it is.
i think its dumb, heavy, might fall off and usless, so i never put it on.
but if the " roll" l_l bar is too strong it can cause wheel hop when your turning and hitting bumps bc you " box " your suspension. so u bounce like a box [] and throw a differental in the mix and you major wheel hop.
but im not a racecar driver soo idk.


There is some mathematical stuff that goes on to calculate torsional rigidity based on wall thickness etc which is well beyond my brain.

However, I saw a test that was done on some supra rear sway bars a while back on another random forum. They tested a couple of them that were different thicknesses compared to stock and recorded the weight required to get them to deflect a certain degree on a bench mounted jig. Turned out the whiteline bar weighed almost double the weight of the hollow bar, and the hollow bar was actually stiffer than the solid bar and it was 25.5mm vs 22mm.

Idea would be (you'd hope) that a manufacturer wouldn't make a part that was 'too strong' for your application.
2011-08-30 19:24:57
#15
addco is widely available and cheapest
2011-08-31 00:55:03
#16
I just installed mine and I love it!

Originally Posted by Vadim
Got this bar a while ago but never got around to installing it. I purchased a P11 specific one, but the instructions said Maxima on it, thus the Maxima bar is probably the same for both cars. Some guys on G20.net have reported using the Maxima Addco without a problem.



Pushed the plastic/rubber holders in, you have to get them in through the corners.


Next you have the ABS and handbrake bolts in the way. I removed the ABS bolt and loosened the handbrake bolt. I will try to get them tightened during the day.


Next issue I came across is the bar being a bit too big, thus making it painful to get both sides in.


Using a screwdriver I propped it up and got it in. I chose the mounting point to be about an inch from the end of the bar. The closer to the end, the less force the bar gives.


Attached to the rear beam


Took a car for a spin and I was pretty impressed on how well the car responded. It seemed to have reduced understeer and the car just goes where you point it to go.
2011-08-31 03:54:03
#17
About time dammit! Fight the beam, fight understeer! Huzzah!
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)
    StubUserName

    Back to top