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Thread: How To: Rebuild a T25/T28 Turbo (PIC HEAVY)

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Posts: 61-70 of 78
2009-09-20 00:46:16
#61
hey thanks sooo much tekkie i just re read the instructions and loosened the nut and tapped the turbine down and i think it popped in place a little more. it seems to not interfere. ill wait till later to find all the pics to clock it but i think it needs the mallet to be pushed in (i just used finger pressure before and it click so i thought it was ok.
2009-09-20 02:38:45
#62
Ah cool, glad you figured it out. There's a piston ring that "snaps" in to place against the CHRA. if you don't feel the solid click as it seats, then it's not seated all the way down. That little difference of 1mm is what you encountered.
2009-09-21 01:11:08
#63
Yes just buttoned it up today
so I guess it just needed a light tap
2010-04-02 05:45:26
#64
please look at theese pics and tell me if i can rebuild that thing. I dont know how it happend, i wanted to rebuid that because of high oil consuption so i disassembled that i saw that blade... BTW There were no oil at ex. housing, but quite much of oil at compressor under the blade.
thanks

2010-04-02 11:56:25
#65
I wouldn't rebuild it, if you sent it to me. There's a strong possibility that the compressor wheel is now out of balance, and it will wear on the bearings faster.

HOWEVER, for an additional fee, I'd replace the turbine/compressor wheel assembly if you requested so.
2011-02-26 03:54:01
#66
This is an awesome write up with pics I just found. I am about to tackle mine in the morning and this will be my "first" Turbo rebuild. My T25 is coming off my Mitsu Eclipse 1998. I really like the marking to make sure balancing is maintained. I have the Kamak T25 Rebuild Kit off eBay. Any surprises on Gaskets? I stopped my local Mitsu Dealer and got the Turbo to Exhaust Manifold Gasket for $15. Rip, I know. Any other gaskets will be needed for this rebuild as I see none in the kit.
2011-07-28 19:38:49
#67
So when you get shaft play it doesn't effect the original balance at all? Sorry for the newb question. I'm thinking of trying this myself. Definitely something I was thinking of having sent out to do.


In this thread its mentioned that Jensen should go get the turbo tested to make sure that balance was maintained. How did that turn out?

What shop was used to determine if the balance was still correct?
2011-07-29 15:04:28
#68
Jensen didn't end up sending it off to check balancing, but it didn't need it. The turbo is running fine now, no leaking, no boost issues.

If you were to send it off though, look for a local Diesel overhaul shop that has a turbo test-stand. Otherwise, send it off somewhere like Gpopshop. If you do a google search for turbo testing, you'll see there are plenty of shops that can test your turbocharger for a nominal fee. If you send them a new wheel they can balance it for you for an additional charge.

Shaft play only affects the "factory" balance if either wheel comes into contact with the housing and is damaged. When the bearing seals go out, the bearings typically aren't completely damaged. In some rare cases where you run the turbo KNOWING it's blown for hundreds of miles though, you'll do damage to the bearings that will cause the shaft to wobble and damage both the turbine and compressor wheel.
2011-08-07 02:11:08
#69
Are there torque specs for the torx screws?

What components did you clean in gasoline?

On the exhaust wheel side it looks like there is no nut. Am I seeing that correctly?
Last edited by TrackJunky82 on 2011-08-07 at 02-19-12.
2012-01-12 18:34:51
#70
with the little paper filter that is on the compressor housing when you take it off, does everyone just scrape it off and bolt it back on with no replacement or goo?
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