Thread: Where to buy turbo oil drain barb / bung? Also 90° or straight?

I'm going to need one, yes.

Turbo is top mount, middle mount, bottom mount?

Bottom mount. The straight fitting that is currently on the block is too close to the compressor housing in order to drain properly from the turbo.

I'd consider a 45 before I went to the 90. The 90 is going to run you right into the block I think. Or heating up the drain tube and bending it. Or maybe dr fowler's solution in this thread? Link

There will also be a 90* fitting off the oil drain flange on the turbo. That will face the block. Then the steel braided return line will make a right turn to the fitting on the block.

I see what you're getting at finally now. I'm worried you won't get adequate drainage during long sweepers but I'm sure you've already thought of that. I still think a 45 would be better, but it's your setup and I'm sure you know more about it than I do. Let me know how it turns out.

Well it's either that, or the protech gets cut and the flange gets raised (runners get shortened) by an inch or so. I'd really rather not **** with the manifold, though I know the guys have steady hands. SOMETHING's gotta work. We'll figure it out tomorrow when I get up there.

I ran into this problem with my T25 setup. I ended up switching to all AN fittings. I used a 45 degree 10an fitting off the block. This pointed the end almost right at the turbo.

I guess I never updated this thread with my pictures.

Facebook album permalink (in case the images don't show up in the future).

Hey Ben, I just bought a GTi-R kit and will be putting it on soon, gotta question about this though. I know ideally I would take the engine out for this, but what is the best way to go about doing this? I would like to leave the engine in, so to do this I'll have to remove both oil pans, correct? If I leave them on it'll be full of metal shavings which is bad, I know. So how hard is it to remove the oil pans to get this job done?