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Thread: Even more build woes...

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Posts: 41-50 of 167
2008-08-08 13:58:50
#41
I'm getting the GSP VVL pulley. I'm pretty sure it's going to have the ribs for the A/C compressor, but I'm using 4 rib belts, so I'm not overly worried. I removed A/C a long time ago and switched to the Gatorback 4 rib belt.

So the motor will now be a 78E with a 53J head, (SSS motor with lowport DE head), VE oil pump, GTiR pick up tube, VE spacer and VE pulley. LOL! It's starting to sound more and more frankenstein!

One thing I have seriously considered at this point, is removing the PS pump in the future, and relocating the Alternator to the rear of the motor. Would clean up the "front" of the motor quite a bit, and then I'd only need one belt to drive the accessories. We'll see what happens. I read a thread somewhere that someone had mentioned the use of the Altima bracket for the alternator to be moved to the back of the motor.
2008-08-08 19:02:53
#42
Remove power steering, run electric water pump! One belt, alternator up front. WHen you only have that one, it is nice.

Brent
2008-08-08 19:13:29
#43
relocating the alternator in the rear is not as simple as I think it was. I got a RWD alt bracket and it hits the oil filter housing. go electro water pump and call it a day.
2008-08-08 19:26:41
#44
Tekkie, I thought I was the one who made it clear that the back of the VE pully was diffrent than back than the DE pully. Anyway

What people need to understand is that the every pully with corresponding spacer is the same height. What makes these pullys clear the original oil pumps is the clearancing of the pully itself.
2008-08-08 21:49:23
#45
Originally Posted by coach
Remove power steering, run electric water pump! One belt, alternator up front. WHen you only have that one, it is nice.

Brent


I just don't want the alternator up front. It takes away from the niceness of the manifold/ wastegate combo. The intercooler piping can be routed differently without the alternator up front, too.

Originally Posted by Keo
relocating the alternator in the rear is not as simple as I think it was. I got a RWD alt bracket and it hits the oil filter housing. go electro water pump and call it a day.


Thanks for that info. Can't the oil filter housing be changed out for a different one? I read somewhere where someone used the B15 (I think?) oil filter housing that put the oil filter underneath and to the rear of the motor...

Originally Posted by Andreas
Tekkie, I thought I was the one who made it clear that the back of the VE pully was diffrent than back than the DE pully. Anyway

What people need to understand is that the every pully with corresponding spacer is the same height. What makes these pullys clear the original oil pumps is the clearancing of the pully itself.


Yes, you were the one that made it clear. I'm a photographic kind of person, though. I didn't doubt you, just that I'm hard headed (as previously mentioned).

At any rate, I ordered the GSP VVL pulley and VE spacer. Should have her on the road (to get inspected/registered) on Saturday. Then I can call Calum and see if he's able to come down and work with me on the 740cc 4bar setup
2008-08-09 12:08:55
#46
Originally Posted by TeKKiE

One thing I have seriously considered at this point, is removing the PS pump in the future, and relocating the Alternator to the rear of the motor. Would clean up the "front" of the motor quite a bit, and then I'd only need one belt to drive the accessories. We'll see what happens. I read a thread somewhere that someone had mentioned the use of the Altima bracket for the alternator to be moved to the back of the motor.


Yeah I have heard of cup car guy using or tryng different brackets and re locating the alt. I really like the idea it would make for some really free flowing exhaust options and side exhausts, but I also foresee some fitments issues.

I think VE may have lower mount oil filters too maybe someone who has one could verify this? I remember some discussion about oil coolers and inline filters because the filter was such a pain to get to The electric water pump is good one too.

I don't know how plausible it would be but I was toying with the idea of using an MR2 electric PS pump. I have heard of manual rack Hondas doing this. Most likely a good deal of trouble would be involved getting it to work right. Maybe someday
2008-08-09 17:20:46
#47
Anyone here know off the top of their heads if the Bluebird lower pan permits the GTI-R pick up tube for clearance?

Installed the GSpec Pulley this morning (beautiful!), and still had no oil pressure on crank up. Pulled the VC this time to be sure, and I didn't have anything coming from the oil squirters. Also, the oil filter is dry. IIRC, I pulled the lower pan off to inspect before, and kinda saw a outline of the pick up tube's mouth. I checked the pan for dents, and went ahead and banged it out just to be safe. Apparently it's not enough, I guess?

Anyone have any thoughts on shaving the mouth of the pick up tube down? I really don't wanna have to replace the upper and lower pan (I'm assuming that the upper pan only fits one type of lower pan?)

Thanks again (as always.)
2008-08-09 19:25:46
#48
All of the AWD det GTI-R pans are the same (FWD VE and DEs are the same as each other but different from the AWD cars) so it should clear just fine. I don't know what the threads are though you might need to drill and tap for larger bolts for the pick up.

I have seen in a few repair manuals new oil pumps getting lubed with petroleum jelly. I haven't ever had to do this myself but it should help prime the pump and get some suction going IMO. Maybe put some oil in the filter to. Some forms of pumps in general won't work at all unless primed.

If the pickup tube isn't sealing that could also be causing the problem. It could just be sucking up air. Do you have a gasket or RTV between the pick up and the pump?
2008-08-09 21:05:14
#49
Originally Posted by TeKKiE

Thanks for that info. Can't the oil filter housing be changed out for a different one? I read somewhere where someone used the B15 (I think?) oil filter housing that put the oil filter underneath and to the rear of the motor...


I tried with both housing, Lowport and B15 it still hit. you can shave the bracket, but I'm to lazy for that.
2008-08-09 23:24:34
#50
Originally Posted by jere
All of the AWD det GTI-R pans are the same (FWD VE and DEs are the same as each other but different from the AWD cars) so it should clear just fine. I don't know what the threads are though you might need to drill and tap for larger bolts for the pick up.

I have seen in a few repair manuals new oil pumps getting lubed with petroleum jelly. I haven't ever had to do this myself but it should help prime the pump and get some suction going IMO. Maybe put some oil in the filter to. Some forms of pumps in general won't work at all unless primed.

If the pickup tube isn't sealing that could also be causing the problem. It could just be sucking up air. Do you have a gasket or RTV between the pick up and the pump?


I'll pour oil thru the filter assy and see if it will prime once I've pre-loaded the oil pump. I kinda see what everyone's saying that if there's no oil in the pump, it's kinda hard for it to draw any up. I figured it would at least trap the air and create suction, no?

Oh, and I reused the metal gasket between the pump and pick up tube. I've actually got two, and used the better one.
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