Thread: Even more build woes...

Replaced the plug wires today with absolutely no change.

Started playing with the tune, and ended up having to bring the latency up to .72 from .50, and then brought the k value up from 218 to about 235. I'm actually picking up consistent readings on the wideband, now. Maybe I'm just smelling fuel because I'm not used to having such large injectors?

She seems to run a little better, consistency wise. Still want to quadruple check the ignition timing and then do some more fine tuning at idle, to get it more solid. Then I'm going to have to tune the boost edge of the maps for timing and fuel.

Looks like I'm getting the hang of it, map wise It's not backfiring on decel anymore, either. More to follow.

Sounds good man, glad to see things is working out for you.

Thanks

After playing with it some more today, I noticed some pretty solid hesitation/bogging below 3K. After 3K, she revs beautifully, and doesn't give me any issues.

Looks like I'm going to end up doing some more searching on another issue.

Did end up doing a pressure test today, and found no leaks. (I take that back, I did find a small leak that I caused, because I accidentally knicked the silicone seal around the MAF housing. Going to re-seal it though).

Smell raw fuel when I do the pressure test around 25psi, though. Not sure where it's coming from, but I did the stethoscope (sp?) method and couldn't hear anything anywhere.

Also removed the intercooler piping before the MAF and tried to run it N/A. It ran solid for a short while then started doing the identical bogging/lean/junk idle. Of course, after 3k she woke up and revved something fierce.

Well, off to search

Alrighty, so after doing some searching on both sites, most either point to the TPS, MAF, CTS, etc.

Now, as far as TPS, is it possible that I get correct values, and it's still faulty? I show .46vdc at idle, and around 4.07vdc at WOT according to NissanDataScan.

Coolant temps seem fine, once the motor hits around 212 in NDS, fans kick on and coolant temps drop to around 202~206. (Sitting in idle, no air blowing across the radiator).

MAF voltages seem correct, around 1.2 at idle, around .8 or .9v with the key in the ignition and car off (can't remember exactly what voltage, IIRC it's .9).

Plugs are gapped correctly at .030", timing for what I could tell with the timing gun is at 15* while I was in timing mode (pretty sure it was in timing mode.) Dizzy is rotated towards the firewall a bit though, which I thought was a little off.

Did hear a sign of detonation last night, sounded like a marble hitting something, but only heard it once, not multiple times. Looked at the concrete this morning and there's a lot of black **** behind the exhaust Well, not A LOT, but quite a bit. Looks like under 3K it's bogging due to a rich condition.

Going to pull the o2 sensor today and see how nasty it looks, may end up replacing it just in case. (only has around 5K miles on it, so I'm hoping it's not FUBAR'd already.)

That's good. You are making good progress. I don't know if others have had this issue, but when my computer sees over 4.05V at WOT the car doesn't run as strong as it should. Whenever I would go full throttle the car had noticably less power than 80% throttle. I changed the tps so at WOT it reads less than that and the problem went away. Full throttle charges like a bull.

Just in case you ever have an issue there.

out of curiosity have u pulled ur fpr vac line to see if it smells of fuel?

Nope, that I have not done. It's a brand new Nismo unit, too. Hopefully that's not the problem. Fuel pressure reacts accordingly when I adjust the unit.

yeah i just wondered, i was having some weird fueling issues and it ended up being my niso fpr what threw me off was mine was also adjusting up and down, but it was leaking, causing me to have starting issues and bogging...i removed the nismo fpr and put on the stock fpr and the car acted 100% better..just thought i would throw it out there...on mine i pulled the vac line an it smelled of fuel thats one way to tell if it leaking or not because and obviously the vac line is supposed to see vacuum only and not fuel, but if it leaks pastthe diaphram then you get a vacuum line that smells of fuel...

Gotcha, so just yank the vacuum line and start the car to see if I get a fuel smell, or see fuel coming out. I'll add it to the list of things to check tonight.

Okay guys, do you think it could be the TPS?

The voltages are good, however I noticed that the car revs more freely with the top harness connector removed from the TPS. It revs a lot more freely, and doesn't seem to bog at all. Could it be possible that the signal is being distorted somehow?

If so, I need to go hunt down a TPS tomorrow.