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Thread: VE-T blogger, dynos, movies, and pics.

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Posts: 241-250 of 277
2008-10-27 03:27:53
#241
I dont feel the JWT ECU is a problem what so ever. Yes you can get a tunable ECU and it will work better but running 22 PSI on pump gas is not smart at all. Then when things go wrong instead of blaming yourself for pushing the limit lets blame the JWT ECU.

I am 100% sure at 18 PSI that JWT ECU was not having any detonation problems. I still think my guideline is a safe way to look at boost on a SR20. Again it is a guide line and not written in stone.

At some point things go south. The old saying the straw the boke the camels back. Lets say I can bench press 200 pounds I might not be able to bench press 201 pounds. There is a limit and when you go over things go bad very quick.

My firends turbo VE is making 513 WHP on a JWT ECU and has been running fine for the last 6 months or so. He runs 93 octane to 17 psi and runs 103 octane to 25 PSI when he goes out racing.

It is so much easier to keep things safe than to push the limit and pay out your nose to rebuild.
2008-10-27 03:34:54
#242
Originally Posted by Andreas
I dont feel the JWT ECU is a problem what so ever. Yes you can get a tunable ECU and it will work better but running 22 PSI on pump gas is not smart at all. Then when things go wrong instead of blaming yourself for pushing the limit lets blame the JWT ECU.


Yeah i may of come across a bit negative. I was moreso implying if you want to be on the cliff edge of a motor/setup then you need to be monitering the motor very very closely with a mick hair fine tune, and if you were keeping the Jwt ecu the simple solution is to turn the boost down.
2008-10-27 05:10:37
#243
I agree with you andreas, this tune is very safe and has proven to be reliable. I do push this motor quite a bit. Some would say I am an idiot for doing so, but there is only one way to find the limit. Hit it, then back it off a bit.

Another thing you guys must realize is this.





















This is Utah. I am at 4500+ elevation. A 500whp car here is making a lot less power. I made 442whp, with a 18% correction for elevation, temp, and humidity. That means that uncorrected I only made 375whp. That is a lot less air than at sea level! 15psi at sea level is like 20psi here. It is a huge difference!

I pushed the limits, and now I found them. I will not be hitting them again. I want to be able to make 450ish on pump gas and less than 20psi of boost when I put the new manifold on. I don't see why this is not possible. But at least I didn't blow it up right? The car runs great, pulls great, and the clutch cannot keep up
2008-10-27 06:59:32
#244
Originally Posted by Coheed
The motor runs fine. I did a compression test 1 week ago and got 100 across the board. Not great numbers, but the numbers are higher than that. My small miata battery could barely crank the engine. So I am guessing that the real number is around 145-150psi. Still, even so the motor runs just like it did 3 weeks ago. Very very strong. I did not lose 80whp since the last time I dynod. It's just the rpm pickup didn't work and the calculation is wrong.

I was being sarcastic when I said the 2* and more fuel killed the power. There really hasn't been that big of a difference. Maybe 10-15whp on the same boost.


Interesting......

Originally Posted by Coheed
This was about 14* base. I was running 18* base before. But that doesn't show why I made so much less. it shows the graph stopping at 6800rpm or so which is incorrect. I thought the motor was blown, but after driving it there is no way. I took her out last night on 18psi and it still hauls. Nothing wrong. Just different dynos.

There is no way 5psi is only 20whp. More like 60+whp until I get over 20psi.


Im glad it still hauls, but hauling in your little world doesn't mean something is not wrong with the motor!

Originally Posted by Coheed
nope, boost drops to 23psi. I am using a bleeder boost controller. Boost spikes at 24psi and drops to 23psi. I don't think there is wheelspin at all, but I think I am running into a flow restriction somewhere. Adding more boost doesn't make any more peak hp, but adds some midrange. I think it is the log manifold and smaller turbine housing holding me back at this point.

cam switchover on this run was 6500rpm, so you can see when it hits. This cam profile is not the best, but I can tell that the cams are far from being maxxed out.


These turbos do have limits my friend, push more boost all you want and add the piss outa your initial power hit. Your top end won't gain piss when your outside the efficiency range of a turbo.
Im not saying your particularly to this point, just stating what happens.

Originally Posted by Coheed
I should also say this. I set my boost at 23psi on the bleeder on the way down to the track. The temp outside dropped as we were waiting and I only was actually putting out 20psi peak dropping to 19psi! The temp changed my boost setting. I didn't think of even looking at the guage while I was racing. I was just too busy with everything else. I don't think the extra boost would have helped anyway. I was pretty much at the limit of the tire's abilities.

I get done racing and was playing on the freeway. Car was pulling insane, but when I looked at the guage it was only reading a steady 19psi. Poop.


So just curious, you really trust your boost gauge that much? I have been in this business long enough to not trust my engine to a boost gauge....And what octane are you runnin???? And how are you monitoring knock??????

Originally Posted by Coheed
I have decided on a twin scroll T3 setup from Protech if the price is right. I am looking for a really good piece and I may even make it myself. So I am going to keep the gt3076r and make it twin scroll. It should boost really quick and make the 500whp I want.

My buddy has his all-trac that runs 10s now with a 1.8 60' @ 130mph. He made like 690awhp on a mustang dyno. I would like to have a car that can somewhat keep up. I will need to make just over 500whp and do a lil weight reduction to get into the low low 11s.

I am focused on making awesome mid-range power with this turbo and keeping the rev limit low for reliability. I have a set of the stock sr20ve cams. If they made more power than the VET cams on this "new" manifold I would be surprised. I am loving the VET cams.

I would like to do a full cam comparo, since I have a dyno real close and real cheap.


Why in gods green earth are you going to drop that kind of cash for a TS t3 mani? I think this subject has been kicked to death, but my goodness you will not gain that much spool!!!!! turn knob for .5 lbs more boost, problem solved. But hey you run 24 psi on 91 mixed with 100+ so no problem!....oh boy.
And second why are you going to drop that money in the first place, please go by a better tuning solution first.... Calum, AEM, ect.....

Originally Posted by Coheed
Well I dynod again. This time best pull was 334whp. I gained very little by removing the air filter and I took the exhaust off.


And the numbers different again......

Originally Posted by Coheed
This was pump with a couple gallons of 100 mixed in. I ran 24psi, but this time it was humid out and I think my spark plugs are dying. The gap keeps closing to around .020 after only a few hundred miles. hmmmmm. The only thing that changed between runs is the timing. I changed timing on my car and since I couldn't get it in timing mode I just set it barely off center. I just went outside a sec ago and realized that I put a scratch where the dizzy was supposed to go at 15*. I was way too conservative. Experience tells me that I was about 3-4* retarded over the old run. Oh well, live and learn.

Taking off the air filter only made 6whp on the very top end. Removing the exhaust made loads more mid-range. I like it except for the noise and the smell. After doing the pulls and taking some guys for a ride I noticed the car felt a lil down on power, and I have a partial throttle misfire. Sigh, the signs of a small gap.

Here is the sheet. you can see the comparo from my old run vs new. The new one looks really jaggy and since the exhaust wasn't hooked up we couldn't get afr.



I gained over 50whp in the midrange over the run with the exhaust. WOW! Sure I didn't make any more peak power, but with the timing back in I maybe would have seen a bit more. I don't have a clue how much more power 3* more would make.


Why do I feel like this is a big guessing game with you and the dyno..... Please a get something you can tune....

Originally Posted by Coheed
Now that I think about it, this pull was in 4th gear. I know the clutch was slipping, I really wanted to do 3rd gear but everyone there made around 15whp more by dynoing in 4th over 3rd. The supercharged caddy did 417whp in 4th and 389 in 3rd.

I will soon be switching to a pull-through setup to see what the power difference is. Also, I will be doing some pulls to determine many automotive myths. Do lightweight wheels make more power??? What about a flywheel? Should be very fun and interesting to see the results.


No flywheels don't add power, they just like to help your engine realize full potential...... Why have you not got a clutch that doesn't slip also????? Was it not slipping since your first dyno graph post?

Originally Posted by Coheed
^^^ correct. The dynojet reads hp by how fast you accelerate the roller. Lightweight wheels increase acceleration, same as a lightweight flywheel. This should be able to be seen on the dyno. We will see.

I have done most of my pulls in 3rd gear because the clutch hates 4th on high boost. On the street it is fine, on the dyno I smell burning lol.

I put in iridium plugs last night and just got done driving her on the original timing mark. My power is back. Holy cow does it pull hard! The turbo spools much quicker than before and every boost hit in 2nd results in tons of wheel spin. 3rd still pulls hard with no traction problems. Just a load of torque steer.


Your power is back??? Where did it go before? I still feel this is a big guessing game.....

Originally Posted by Coheed
I am guessing the timing made the biggest difference. But the iridiums are gapped @ .032 and they still don't cut out at 24psi. I was amazed. Usually I have to run .028 or it will misfire under boost over 22psi. It held 24psi without a hitch today. The wastegate sounds so mean when it opens up. Car just has tons of bottom end without the exhaust. There is no doubt that the extra 4* of timing would make a huge difference in power! Maybe 25whp! Seat of the pants is night and day between yesterday and today. Unbelievable.


Are we still guessing, or is the seat of our pants the new standard....?

Originally Posted by Coheed
I took the iridium plugs out today to find cyl 4 spark plug destroyed. The insulator cracked and the only thing keeping it in the motor was the ground electrode. The very tip of the electrode looks like it has been nearly melted. I guess I could have detonated on that cyl, causing the insulator to crack. I never heard any detonation though. The car just started to cut out @ 22psi. Piston looks fine from what I can see in the bore. But this plug is toast after just one week. So I guess 22psi is the limit for pump gas eh? I think I am going to tone it down to 20 to be safe. Perhaps 19. 19psi should be safe and reliable for pump gas. 24psi on 100 octane.

I put some ngk 7s in there, just coppers, side gapped, and the car runs great. I guess iridiums are a no-go then. I don't wanna spend $8 per plug to have them do this.


Hey we have a winner!!!!!!! You admitted to the guessing theory!!! That truly you have no idea what is detonating or not. You never heard any though, hmmmmmm, how was this done? Do you have a knock counter? Are you datalogging your rediculous street pulls at 24psi while watching your crazy accurate boost gauge???? Wait and again...I guess 22psi is the limit....Excellent And i have no idea how you came about this resolution.
Was this 2 gallons of mixed fuel with piss 91, or 3, 4, 5, ect....????
And you now propose 19 should be safe, but we don't know for sure.

Originally Posted by Andreas
20-22 PSI is not safe on pump gas. You are pushing the upper limits of pump gas which will limit the life span of the motor. This proves nothing but in the long run will bleed your pocket to death.

Generally hard detonations will cause the top of the cylinder walls to oval out and also cause pitting around the edges or the top of the cyliner walls. The pistons generally dry out from detonation and the edges of the pistons tend to crank as the edges are the thinnest.

From my experience generally the larger the turbine rear housing and turbo turbine wheel the higher you can push the octane limit as the temps from less backpresure drop.

Please understand that there is a guide line to use to keep things safe on turbo motors.

0-15 PSI 93 octane pump
15-20 PSI 97 octane
20-25 PSI 103 octane

These numers above can be run a bit higher but again to keep things safe the limits above are a great measuring stick.

In my opinion once you have gotten to the point you are at damage hs been done and things will start to go down hill soon.

These are all my opinions and can be taken for a grain of salt.


This man is smart, and is also giving sound advice!

Originally Posted by BenFenner
I'm gunna blame your JWT ECU. Or more specifically, your inability to tune ignition timing. With proper tuning on an SR20, there's no reason Andreas' guidelines can't be stretched quite a bit. He's got a great point about larger turbos though. They are your best friend.


hmmmmmmmmmmm, lets just blame good ole JWT

Originally Posted by SE-Rican
You are running way to much boost on that motor on pump gas. Like mentioned above 15 psi is more or less the max. Also you should consider a different method of fine tuning that motor.


Also a smart man! And giving sound advice

Originally Posted by Andreas
I dont feel the JWT ECU is a problem what so ever. Yes you can get a tunable ECU and it will work better but running 22 PSI on pump gas is not smart at all. Then when things go wrong instead of blaming yourself for pushing the limit lets blame the JWT ECU.

I am 100% sure at 18 PSI that JWT ECU was not having any detonation problems. I still think my guideline is a safe way to look at boost on a SR20. Again it is a guide line and not written in stone.

At some point things go south. The old saying the straw the boke the camels back. Lets say I can bench press 200 pounds I might not be able to bench press 201 pounds. There is a limit and when you go over things go bad very quick.

My firends turbo VE is making 513 WHP on a JWT ECU and has been running fine for the last 6 months or so. He runs 93 octane to 17 psi and runs 103 octane to 25 PSI when he goes out racing.

It is so much easier to keep things safe than to push the limit and pay out your nose to rebuild.


I will 100% agree and suscribe to this theory, unless Coheed you are made of money. And im not trying to be an a s s with this comment. Im assuming your not since your clutch is burning and you can't afford slicks. So quit guessing with your motor!!!!

Originally Posted by Coheed
I agree with you andreas, this tune is very safe and has proven to be reliable. I do push this motor quite a bit. Some would say I am an idiot for doing so, but there is only one way to find the limit. Hit it, then back it off a bit.

Another thing you guys must realize is this.
This is Utah. I am at 4500+ elevation. A 500whp car here is making a lot less power. I made 442whp, with a 18% correction for elevation, temp, and humidity. That means that uncorrected I only made 375whp. That is a lot less air than at sea level! 15psi at sea level is like 20psi here. It is a huge difference!

I pushed the limits, and now I found them. I will not be hitting them again. I want to be able to make 450ish on pump gas and less than 20psi of boost when I put the new manifold on. I don't see why this is not possible. But at least I didn't blow it up right? The car runs great, pulls great, and the clutch cannot keep up


Seriously??? Well yeah at least you did not blow it up, but i could forsee that in your future. Since these so- called limits were pretty much a toss up in my mind. Your clutch still sucks. You want 450 under 20lbs, yet you only hit 442 once..... at 24lbs. Please correct me if im wrong on that, with more dyno charts. And you are still using a JWT ecu, fantastic.

My reason for this ranting? Well from a tuning aspect, this whole thing seems just not good. Couple dyno days and you hit the streets burning it up (Well 13's and trapping 114 is not burning it up in my mind, but if it makes you smile who am i to stop you) on 24 lbs. Hey but you mentioned you didnt think any knock was there, sounds solid to me. Its your money and your motor so do with it as you like. I just have been having a hard time following this thread and seemingly no one really questions what your doing. So call me a dick if you like, but if we were tuning that car, it would leave rock solid with no guessing and then its your prerogative to do with as you please once you leave the tuning table.
2008-10-27 07:41:51
#245
Originally Posted by BenFenner
I'm gunna blame your JWT ECU. Or more specifically, your inability to tune ignition timing. With proper tuning on an SR20, there's no reason Andreas' guidelines can't be stretched quite a bit. He's got a great point about larger turbos though. They are your best friend.


agreed

boost doesn't kill motors damn it, i see all the time on these yank based forums where people run mail order tunes all the time and they say 18psi. 20psi or what ever is the safe limit for street fuel.

These statements are just plane wrong

now we have 98 ron here (comparable to your 93?) and we push 30psi on a street fuel. Difference is that we pretty much only run fully programmable ecu's whether it be a remap, power fc, full standalone whatever. You can run as much boost as you bloody well feel like as long as you head isnt lifting with normal fuel as long as the timing and a/f is suited!

You will make more power on race gas as you can advance the timing in certain spots, but as long as both are tuned correctly they will be just as safe as each other with one making less power!

Fricken mail order tunes suck ass!!!!! when will people get this! each car is different and needs its own fricken tune!!!!

with a proper tune you will have earlier spool and be safer
2008-10-27 07:56:09
#246
........
Originally Posted by Coheed
I agree with you andreas, this tune is very safe and has proven to be reliable. I do push this motor quite a bit. Some would say I am an idiot for doing so, but there is only one way to find the limit. Hit it, then back it off a bit.

Another thing you guys must realize is this.





















This is Utah. I am at 4500+ elevation. A 500whp car here is making a lot less power. I made 442whp, with a 18% correction for elevation, temp, and humidity. That means that uncorrected I only made 375whp. That is a lot less air than at sea level! 15psi at sea level is like 20psi here. It is a huge difference!

I pushed the limits, and now I found them. I will not be hitting them again. I want to be able to make 450ish on pump gas and less than 20psi of boost when I put the new manifold on. I don't see why this is not possible. But at least I didn't blow it up right? The car runs great, pulls great, and the clutch cannot keep up


Nice view, If I didn't hate snow so much and the cold I could live out there lol. Get a camera pod it will help when your alone and shooting vids.
2008-10-27 13:37:23
#247
Originally Posted by sniper571
Interesting......



Im glad it still hauls, but hauling in your little world doesn't mean something is not wrong with the motor!
motor is fine, the compression check I did earlier was not correct because the starter was faulty and not cranking the motor quickly enough. Problem solved. Compression checked out today at 155psi/cyl today. Not one bit of variance. Perfect.


These turbos do have limits my friend, push more boost all you want and add the piss outa your initial power hit. Your top end won't gain piss when your outside the efficiency range of a turbo.
Im not saying your particularly to this point, just stating what happens.



So just curious, you really trust your boost gauge that much? I have been in this business long enough to not trust my engine to a boost gauge....And what octane are you runnin???? And how are you monitoring knock??????

Knock has been monitored in a number of ways. I have used the ear, the dyno, and a knock light.

Why in gods green earth are you going to drop that kind of cash for a TS t3 mani? I think this subject has been kicked to death, but my goodness you will not gain that much spool!!!!! turn knob for .5 lbs more boost, problem solved. But hey you run 24 psi on 91 mixed with 100+ so no problem!....oh boy.
And second why are you going to drop that money in the first place, please go by a better tuning solution first.... Calum, AEM, ect.....
I like the JWT, I would prefer to use it for now. If it ain't broke don't fix it. I want to maximize what I have now, and the next step is a ts manifold. Why? Not for boost onset improvement, but for more power. A twin scroll's divided cylinders will react a lot harder and will have better response. That's what I want, better response. I have run 24psi on a couple of dyno runs with a couple gallons of 100 octane in there. The plugs were read for detonation, in which case there wasn't any. 22psi on pump alone caused some damage to cyl 4 plug. But it is hard to say whether this was caused by detonation, or my mistake. I can go into this further as to why, but the damage on the spark plug could have been there before I put it in.


And the numbers different again......

Numbers on this graph are different because I ran with no exhaust. I had a partial misfire, and 4* less timing than before. This dyno was performed for the sole purpose of seeing how the car's boost response would change. I am planning on running an exhaust cutout in the future and just wanted to see what kind of gains I could expect.

Why do I feel like this is a big guessing game with you and the dyno..... Please a get something you can tune....
It may be a guessing game, but that's where I have been during this whole build. I have done so much of my own R&D in order to find out how this motor reacts to different setups. I will continue to do so, that way people can learn from my mistakes. For example: don't run stock cams on a log manifold.


No flywheels don't add power, they just like to help your engine realize full potential...... Why have you not got a clutch that doesn't slip also????? Was it not slipping since your first dyno graph post?
Clutch still slips in 4th gear. All dyno runs are performed in 3rd. And yes, 4th yields even more power. There is speculation as to whether a lightweight fly will yield more power on a dynojet since it improves acceleration. It sure did make a huge difference on my old SE. I will be testing wheels too by the way so stay tuned.


Your power is back??? Where did it go before? I still feel this is a big guessing game.....
As said before, the power was gone because of misfire and 4* less timing. The motor reacts very very strongly to timing adjustments.

Are we still guessing, or is the seat of our pants the new standard....?



Hey we have a winner!!!!!!! You admitted to the guessing theory!!! That truly you have no idea what is detonating or not. You never heard any though, hmmmmmm, how was this done? Do you have a knock counter? Are you datalogging your rediculous street pulls at 24psi while watching your crazy accurate boost gauge???? Wait and again...I guess 22psi is the limit....Excellent And i have no idea how you came about this resolution.
Was this 2 gallons of mixed fuel with piss 91, or 3, 4, 5, ect....????
And you now propose 19 should be safe, but we don't know for sure.
Like I said before, detonation was not heard at all. Ever. I have datalogged with a nissan datascan, but it doesn't read knock counts. So I used an Apexi knock light instead. I ran 20psi all summer. Over 10K miles of very hard driving. And compression results are still perfect. Yes 19psi is perfectly safe. On 91. My setup. 4500+ elevation.

This man is smart, and is also giving sound advice!
Truly, andreas has given me plenty of suggestions.


hmmmmmmmmmmm, lets just blame good ole JWT
Nothing wrong with the JWT. I like it.


Also a smart man! And giving sound advice



I will 100% agree and suscribe to this theory, unless Coheed you are made of money. And im not trying to be an a s s with this comment. Im assuming your not since your clutch is burning and you can't afford slicks. So quit guessing with your motor!!!!
Well said. I found the limit and will not pass it again. But someone should at least try right


Seriously??? Well yeah at least you did not blow it up, but i could forsee that in your future. Since these so- called limits were pretty much a toss up in my mind. Your clutch still sucks. You want 450 under 20lbs, yet you only hit 442 once..... at 24lbs. Please correct me if im wrong on that, with more dyno charts. And you are still using a JWT ecu, fantastic.
I am going to guess that the tubular manifold will gain a lot of power. Who knows? Anyone document the difference in power it makes? As far as I know I will be the first to actually document it with back-to-back results.


My reason for this ranting? Well from a tuning aspect, this whole thing seems just not good. Couple dyno days and you hit the streets burning it up (Well 13's and trapping 114 is not burning it up in my mind, but if it makes you smile who am i to stop you) on 24 lbs. Hey but you mentioned you didnt think any knock was there, sounds solid to me.

The track runs on 24psi were all done on 100 octane. Running 13s is not the whole story. Trapping 114? haha. What a joke! But I will say that apparently more power doesn't make your trap speed go up. My best trap was 117 on 15psi, and guess what? 24psi yielded the same trap! So clearly slicks are needed to get the best out the the motor. More power = less traction. On 20psi the car can hang with a yzf600r and my buddy's honda cb600 from a roll. It may not be fast up here, but bring any of your cars up here and see how impressed you are then.

Its your money and your motor so do with it as you like. I just have been having a hard time following this thread and seemingly no one really questions what your doing. So call me a dick if you like, but if we were tuning that car, it would leave rock solid with no guessing and then its your prerogative to do with as you please once you leave the tuning table.


I hope I answered all of your questions, but please, do not post unless you have constructive comments or suggestions. I am open to all of your suggestions, and I don't mean to come off overly defensive, but some people here have no concept of how elevation affects a motor. There are guys up here tuning on 91 octane on evos running upwards of 24psi without issue. Stock evo X runs 23psi. This just goes to show that every motor is different, and very few people have pushed the VE. When I drive to sea level I will make sure to turn the boost down. Thanks.
2008-10-27 23:53:43
#248




There are some marks on the ground strap from me prying on it with pliers, and I rubbed the rust color off the strap so it is a different color. You can see the insulator that has cracked and been taken out. It's my fault, the spark plug was defective when I put it in. The center electrode iridium piece was in the box when I opened it, it was broken off. I just threw it in anyway after closing the gap a bit. Perhaps the insulator was already cracked when I put it in? My fault. I'm still not going to run that much boost until I get a better way of monitoring knock. Enjoy the pics.
2008-10-28 06:34:15
#249
Originally Posted by Coheed
I hope I answered all of your questions, but please, do not post unless you have constructive comments or suggestions. I am open to all of your suggestions, and I don't mean to come off overly defensive, but some people here have no concept of how elevation affects a motor. There are guys up here tuning on 91 octane on evos running upwards of 24psi without issue. Stock evo X runs 23psi. This just goes to show that every motor is different, and very few people have pushed the VE. When I drive to sea level I will make sure to turn the boost down. Thanks.


What is wrong with me questioning your methods? K So we have tuned stock EVO's here in MN on stock turbo's that push 23....and your point being that every motor is different? This I am well aware of, since time and time, car after car, same exact same mods put down 20 whp difference. Why is this? i really have no good explanation. Every motor from the factory line is different. Period. We have tuned 100+ mustangs, 100+ evo's, and we have seen literally identical set-ups with same EMS and different whp. I know every motor is different. Why am I making this point? Becuase why will one car knock at 21lbs, and another won't? One can push 23lbs (on the same gas) and not knock.....every motor is different. Trust me I get it.
Secondly you said stock EVO..... So try putting your 3071R on there and push 23lbs....probably not going to happen. Your comparing apples and oranges here. Obviously a larger turbo at that boost will cause the motor to react differently.
All I was doing was compiling your posts and questioning your method of monitoring what is happening inside your engine. I was not trying to be a dick at all. I am sorry if I came across that way. But you have obviously made quite an investment in your car and Im sure you would like to enjoy it for more than just one summer.
So as I stated before do with it as you please.....but As far as my main suggestion, get a different tuning method/ system if you want to see the full potential of what is under that bonnet.
2008-10-28 21:50:30
#250
A gt3076r is what I am using, and there is a lot less heat generated by a gt30 turbo when compared to a t28 sized turbo. It moves more air, but that doesn't mean anything. An engine will detonate at peak torque. A 300lb ft of torque engine running at 8k will have less chance of detonating than a 400lb ft of torque engine running at 6k. Higher revs, and the chance of detonation goes down. I am not revving that high, but I am also not doing that much torque. I think my max torque even on 24psi was around 350. Horsepower doesn't cause detonation. Neither does boost, or airflow. So you can't really say that I am detonating on 20psi on pump gas based on the boost I am running. Or the turbo. Or the gas.

My old SE ran a disco potato on it at 18psi daily for years. The guy I sold it too ran 87 octane in it with bkr6e plugs. That was a stock bluebird! There is a big dyno meet tonight. I am going to show up and do some pulls on 20psi to see if I can read any detonation on the plugs.
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