Originally Posted by
Coheed The motor runs fine. I did a compression test 1 week ago and got 100 across the board. Not great numbers, but the numbers are higher than that. My small miata battery could barely crank the engine. So I am guessing that the real number is around 145-150psi. Still, even so the motor runs just like it did 3 weeks ago. Very very strong. I did not lose 80whp since the last time I dynod. It's just the rpm pickup didn't work and the calculation is wrong.
I was being sarcastic when I said the 2* and more fuel killed the power. There really hasn't been that big of a difference. Maybe 10-15whp on the same boost.
Interesting......
Originally Posted by
Coheed This was about 14* base. I was running 18* base before. But that doesn't show why I made so much less. it shows the graph stopping at 6800rpm or so which is incorrect. I thought the motor was blown, but after driving it there is no way. I took her out last night on 18psi and it still hauls. Nothing wrong. Just different dynos.
There is no way 5psi is only 20whp. More like 60+whp until I get over 20psi.
Im glad it still hauls, but hauling in your little world doesn't mean something is not wrong with the motor!
Originally Posted by
Coheed nope, boost drops to 23psi. I am using a bleeder boost controller. Boost spikes at 24psi and drops to 23psi. I don't think there is wheelspin at all, but I think I am running into a flow restriction somewhere. Adding more boost doesn't make any more peak hp, but adds some midrange. I think it is the log manifold and smaller turbine housing holding me back at this point.
cam switchover on this run was 6500rpm, so you can see when it hits. This cam profile is not the best, but I can tell that the cams are far from being maxxed out.
These turbos do have limits my friend, push more boost all you want and add the piss outa your initial power hit. Your top end won't gain piss when your outside the efficiency range of a turbo.
Im not saying your particularly to this point, just stating what happens.
Originally Posted by
Coheed I should also say this. I set my boost at 23psi on the bleeder on the way down to the track. The temp outside dropped as we were waiting and I only was actually putting out 20psi peak dropping to 19psi! The temp changed my boost setting. I didn't think of even looking at the guage while I was racing. I was just too busy with everything else. I don't think the extra boost would have helped anyway. I was pretty much at the limit of the tire's abilities.
I get done racing and was playing on the freeway. Car was pulling insane, but when I looked at the guage it was only reading a steady 19psi. Poop.
So just curious, you really trust your boost gauge that much? I have been in this business long enough to not trust my engine to a boost gauge....And what octane are you runnin???? And how are you monitoring knock??????
Originally Posted by
Coheed I have decided on a twin scroll T3 setup from Protech if the price is right. I am looking for a really good piece and I may even make it myself. So I am going to keep the gt3076r and make it twin scroll. It should boost really quick and make the 500whp I want.
My buddy has his all-trac that runs 10s now with a 1.8 60' @ 130mph. He made like 690awhp on a mustang dyno. I would like to have a car that can somewhat keep up. I will need to make just over 500whp and do a lil weight reduction to get into the low low 11s.
I am focused on making awesome mid-range power with this turbo and keeping the rev limit low for reliability. I have a set of the stock sr20ve cams. If they made more power than the VET cams on this "new" manifold I would be surprised. I am loving the VET cams.
I would like to do a full cam comparo, since I have a dyno real close and real cheap.
Why in gods green earth are you going to drop that kind of cash for a TS t3 mani? I think this subject has been kicked to death, but my goodness you will not gain that much spool!!!!! turn knob for .5 lbs more boost, problem solved. But hey you run 24 psi on 91 mixed with 100+ so no problem!....oh boy.
And second why are you going to drop that money in the first place, please go by a better tuning solution first.... Calum, AEM, ect.....
Originally Posted by
Coheed Well I dynod again. This time best pull was 334whp. I gained very little by removing the air filter and I took the exhaust off.
And the numbers different again......
Why do I feel like this is a big guessing game with you and the dyno..... Please a get something you can tune....
Originally Posted by
Coheed Now that I think about it, this pull was in 4th gear. I know the clutch was slipping, I really wanted to do 3rd gear but everyone there made around 15whp more by dynoing in 4th over 3rd. The supercharged caddy did 417whp in 4th and 389 in 3rd.
I will soon be switching to a pull-through setup to see what the power difference is. Also, I will be doing some pulls to determine many automotive myths. Do lightweight wheels make more power??? What about a flywheel? Should be very fun and interesting to see the results.
No flywheels don't add power, they just like to help your engine realize full potential...... Why have you not got a clutch that doesn't slip also????? Was it not slipping since your first dyno graph post?
Originally Posted by
Coheed ^^^ correct. The dynojet reads hp by how fast you accelerate the roller. Lightweight wheels increase acceleration, same as a lightweight flywheel. This should be able to be seen on the dyno. We will see.
I have done most of my pulls in 3rd gear because the clutch hates 4th on high boost. On the street it is fine, on the dyno I smell burning lol.
I put in iridium plugs last night and just got done driving her on the original timing mark. My power is back. Holy cow does it pull hard! The turbo spools much quicker than before and every boost hit in 2nd results in tons of wheel spin. 3rd still pulls hard with no traction problems. Just a load of torque steer.
Your power is back??? Where did it go before? I still feel this is a big guessing game.....
Originally Posted by
Coheed I am guessing the timing made the biggest difference. But the iridiums are gapped @ .032 and they still don't cut out at 24psi. I was amazed. Usually I have to run .028 or it will misfire under boost over 22psi. It held 24psi without a hitch today. The wastegate sounds so mean when it opens up. Car just has tons of bottom end without the exhaust. There is no doubt that the extra 4* of timing would make a huge difference in power! Maybe 25whp! Seat of the pants is night and day between yesterday and today. Unbelievable.
Are we still guessing, or is the seat of our pants the new standard....?
Originally Posted by
Coheed I took the iridium plugs out today to find cyl 4 spark plug destroyed. The insulator cracked and the only thing keeping it in the motor was the ground electrode. The very tip of the electrode looks like it has been nearly melted. I guess I could have detonated on that cyl, causing the insulator to crack. I never heard any detonation though. The car just started to cut out @ 22psi. Piston looks fine from what I can see in the bore. But this plug is toast after just one week. So I guess 22psi is the limit for pump gas eh? I think I am going to tone it down to 20 to be safe. Perhaps 19. 19psi should be safe and reliable for pump gas. 24psi on 100 octane.
I put some ngk 7s in there, just coppers, side gapped, and the car runs great. I guess iridiums are a no-go then. I don't wanna spend $8 per plug to have them do this.
Hey we have a winner!!!!!!!
You admitted to the guessing theory!!! That truly you have no idea what is detonating or not. You never heard any though, hmmmmmm, how was this done? Do you have a knock counter? Are you datalogging your rediculous street pulls at 24psi while watching your crazy accurate boost gauge????
Wait and again...I guess 22psi is the limit....Excellent
And i have no idea how you came about this resolution.
Was this 2 gallons of mixed fuel with piss 91, or 3, 4, 5, ect....????
And you now propose 19 should be safe, but we don't know for sure.
Originally Posted by
Andreas20-22 PSI is not safe on pump gas. You are pushing the upper limits of pump gas which will limit the life span of the motor. This proves nothing but in the long run will bleed your pocket to death.
Generally hard detonations will cause the top of the cylinder walls to oval out and also cause pitting around the edges or the top of the cyliner walls. The pistons generally dry out from detonation and the edges of the pistons tend to crank as the edges are the thinnest.
From my experience generally the larger the turbine rear housing and turbo turbine wheel the higher you can push the octane limit as the temps from less backpresure drop.
Please understand that there is a guide line to use to keep things safe on turbo motors.
0-15 PSI 93 octane pump
15-20 PSI 97 octane
20-25 PSI 103 octane
These numers above can be run a bit higher but again to keep things safe the limits above are a great measuring stick.
In my opinion once you have gotten to the point you are at damage hs been done and things will start to go down hill soon.
These are all my opinions and can be taken for a grain of salt.
This man is smart, and is also giving sound advice!
Originally Posted by
BenFenner I'm gunna blame your JWT ECU. Or more specifically, your inability to tune ignition timing. With proper tuning on an SR20, there's no reason Andreas' guidelines can't be stretched quite a bit. He's got a great point about larger turbos though. They are your best friend.
hmmmmmmmmmmm, lets just blame good ole JWT
Originally Posted by
SE-Rican You are running way to much boost on that motor on pump gas. Like mentioned above 15 psi is more or less the max. Also you should consider a different method of fine tuning that motor.
Also a smart man! And giving sound advice
Originally Posted by
AndreasI dont feel the JWT ECU is a problem what so ever. Yes you can get a tunable ECU and it will work better but running 22 PSI on pump gas is not smart at all. Then when things go wrong instead of blaming yourself for pushing the limit lets blame the JWT ECU.
I am 100% sure at 18 PSI that JWT ECU was not having any detonation problems. I still think my guideline is a safe way to look at boost on a SR20. Again it is a guide line and not written in stone.
At some point things go south. The old saying the straw the boke the camels back. Lets say I can bench press 200 pounds I might not be able to bench press 201 pounds. There is a limit and when you go over things go bad very quick.
My firends turbo VE is making 513 WHP on a JWT ECU and has been running fine for the last 6 months or so. He runs 93 octane to 17 psi and runs 103 octane to 25 PSI when he goes out racing.
It is so much easier to keep things safe than to push the limit and pay out your nose to rebuild.
I will 100% agree and suscribe to this theory, unless Coheed you are made of money. And im not trying to be an a s s with this comment. Im assuming your not since your clutch is burning and you can't afford slicks. So quit guessing with your motor!!!!
Seriously??? Well yeah at least you did not blow it up, but i could forsee that in your future. Since these so- called limits were pretty much a toss up in my mind. Your clutch still sucks. You want 450 under 20lbs, yet you only hit 442 once..... at 24lbs. Please correct me if im wrong on that, with more dyno charts. And you are still using a JWT ecu, fantastic.
My reason for this ranting? Well from a tuning aspect, this whole thing seems just not good. Couple dyno days and you hit the streets burning it up (Well 13's and trapping 114 is not burning it up in my mind, but if it makes you smile who am i to stop you) on 24 lbs. Hey but you mentioned you didnt think any knock was there
, sounds solid to me. Its your money and your motor so do with it as you like. I just have been having a hard time following this thread and seemingly no one really questions what your doing. So call me a dick if you like, but if we were tuning that car, it would leave rock solid with no guessing and then its your prerogative to do with as you please once you leave the tuning table.