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Thread: VE-T blogger, dynos, movies, and pics.

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Posts: 21-30 of 277
2008-07-23 21:09:22
#21
Yes the 215* has been seen from the IAT sensor on multiple locations. But the IAT sensor is just stuffed in the engine compartment, not actually in the intake pipe. The air filter is mounted right on the compressor, and when the rad fans kick on they blow all their hot air right toward the filter. I will be adding a cold air intake very shortly in order to remedy this, but yes, the IAT are INSANE. I really want the intake air to be around 100* max. But it seems that underhood temps are really getting up there and there is no way to solve it.? I have triple wrapped the downpipe and the exhaust housing, but the manifold still puts out a lot of heat and there is no way of getting rid of it. I am thinking about cutting a hole in the hood or lifting the back of the hood with washers in order to help pull the air out of the engine bay.
2008-07-23 21:13:10
#22
Originally Posted by BenFenner

Name me one thing you can do to listen for detonation that you can do on a dyno but not on the street.


stand right next to the car whilst its at full chat with your head under the bonnet (jk)
2008-07-23 21:32:04
#23
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Coheed, I hate to do this to your thread, but excuse me while I defend my e-manhood here for a second. =/
There will be good info about inlet air temps if you read to the end.

Well, I'm not exactly sure how long the cars were that I tuned, but I've tuned four of them.

I've tuned countless hours on the street, in a typical garage complex with multiple bays with floor mounted Mustang dyno, in a warehouse building with excellent ventilation and surface mounted Dyno Dynamics machine.
The garage complex had open doors on the front and rear of the car with typical high flow fans aimed at the front of the car. The warehouse place had a dedicated exhaust fan in the ceiling along with and open bay door with typical large fans pointed at the front of the car. The street had terrific air flow, probably the best you can wish for.

I'm not really sure if you're calling me out as a novice, or if your grasp of the English language is poor. I'm guessing both?

I've used knock sensors along with Coheed's wall technique (works amazingly) as well as just listening. One could also employ the coffee can technique, or a more sophisticated electronic version of that same technique if one wished while on the street.


Yep.


I never said they were. They are, however, the big difference between driving on the street and pulling on the dyno. You can knock on the dyno, and then drive home with none. Or, let me put it another way. You can tune knock out on the dyno and then have an even larger margin of safety by driving on the street.

I don't know how to refute this. For one, it's just stupid to say. You don't think I could tune a car to avoid detonation by just street tuning? Are you serious? Also, I've done this before, as have countless other tuners. Dynos are nice, but there's nothing magical about them that removes detonation from engine operation.

Really, this is your problem here. If you'd just said it was hard to do, we'd be friends, but you've gone and said "never". I find it funny how you qualify the statement by saying "in most cases" but then go on to say "never". C'mon man, no one's buying this.



A JWT ECU is a non-tunable ECU. Of course you can't avoid detonation with it. Street vs. Dyno means nothing here.

I believe it. Ever heard Coheed's car? This is my point. Just because you cater to complete idiots (90% of dyno customers are idiots) who think they aren't detonating on the street when they are doesn't mean Coheed can't tell when his car is and isn't detonating on the street. It also doesn't mean that just because your customers' cars detonate on the dyno that they were lying or don't know what they're talking about when they say they weren't detonating on the street. The dyno is a much more stressful place for an engine than the street due to limited air flow, and can be made worse by loaded dynos (Mustang and Dyno Dynamics). Like you said, the Dyno Dynamics can put a lot of load on the car, but you failed to mention that it typically puts more load on the engine than the street. They are designed to allow the engine to accelerate at a set rate, no matter what. This means the more power a car has the more load it will place on the engine. The net effect on the street would be like doubling or tripling the mass or your car. Sorry, I'm getting way to deep into this. Let me continue.

I tune my car. Why do you ask?

Done.


It depends on how fast you're allowing the dyno/engine to accelerate. You can make it less load, the same load, or more load than the street. From what I've seen, the typical thing to do is allow for a rate of change of 200-300 rpm per second. This has the result of loading a car with more than about 300 WHP with more load than it would see on the street.


215°F intake air temp is INSANE. When intake air temps are more than 60°F above ambient you've got major problems with compressor inefficiency, insufficient intercooler performance, etc. Pump gas can't deal with this sort of situation. Detonation will be the name of the game here. Coheed, you've got to do something about this. Is this typical of the SR20 crowd?

Name me one thing you can do to listen for detonation that you can do on a dyno but not on the street.


I will refute my comment about 215* IAT......those are not typical for any sr20 I know. If you can understand I was thinking coolant temps when I typed that, which are typical, little high but not outa the norm.

I would definitely check why your IAT are so high Coheed......Yes I know high IAT will have no good results for detonation.
And no I was not calling you out as a novice, I was asking what your experience was.....don't get to defensive, If it sounded so I apologize.

For what you can do on the dyno and not on the street.....
1) Stand next to car and listen under the hood, which is extremely helpful

2) We use a knock GIZMO device so we can listen in the car, little expensive but works really well, might be able to use on street but not recommended

I'm not really sure if you're calling me out as a novice, or if your grasp of the English language is poor. I'm guessing both?
Yeah Im certainly not trying to be rude with you as you are with me, just trying to help another fellow nissan guy and just questioning some of your statements...... Is this wrong???????
So apparently this associates me with being terrible at English......


"I don't know how to refute this. For one, it's just stupid to say. You don't think I could tune a car to avoid detonation by just street tuning? Are you serious? Also, I've done this before, as have countless other tuners. Dynos are nice, but there's nothing magical about them that removes detonation from engine operation.

Really, this is your problem here. If you'd just said it was hard to do, we'd be friends, but you've gone and said "never". I find it funny how you qualify the statement by saying "in most cases" but then go on to say "never". C'mon man, no one's buying this."

I did not say there was anything magical about them! They help alot!!!
So for instance Would you tell me that you could an AEM EMS car on the streets better than on a dyno? Im literally asking you a question and not being a dick as i ask it.....Im just wondering.......
I was referring to certain cars that have much better factory knock sensor capabilities than others....some cars ECU's are terrible at following knock, while others are better, as looking at it from a tuning standpoint.
Seriously not trying to get in a pissing match with you, Just trying to help Coheed.....later
2008-07-23 22:29:02
#24
Getting on freeway with just me in the car and 19psi. Funny thing is, my max MAF voltage was only 4.55V. I was expecting more. I hit 4.52V on 16psi. So this shows there is no real significant gain?


2008-07-23 22:46:56
#25
AC is coming out. I have blown up 3 AC hoses. I am done.





So the car will no longer keep me cool, but it looks like she is going to lose like 45 lbs.
2008-07-23 22:55:42
#26
15psi/14.7 (atmospheric pressure)=1.02
1.02 + 1 = 2.02
2.02 x NA HP (190HP??) = 383.8 HP
383.8 x .80 (to account for drivetrain loss) = 307HP

But that's standard crap. My boy man 320-330 on a GTi-R stock T28 at 18psi, so My guess is about 315-330 for you.
2008-07-23 23:11:04
#27
^^^good, except that atmospheric pressure here is only 13.0 on a good day. And you have to use the equation this way

14.7/15psi=.98

otherwise it will make more power on less than atmospheric pressure and that makes no sense.
2008-07-23 23:12:50
#28
I get about 318whp at this elevation using that calculation. Makes sense.
2008-07-23 23:19:05
#29
sucks about your a/c, but good news the car is getting weight reduction. There needs to be away to adapt or bend a ga16 line to fit the sr20 motor. That hose is father away from the exhaust so probable less chances of blowing. i can send you mine maybe you can find a away to bend it a little and make it fit. Brings my hopes down for when i get a similar set-up because i need a/c
2008-07-23 23:56:59
#30
Originally Posted by Coheed
Yes the 215* has been seen from the IAT sensor on multiple locations. But the IAT sensor is just stuffed in the engine compartment, not actually in the intake pipe.
This makes a huge difference. You have no idea what your intake air temps are then. I would bet while driving down the road you're quite a bit less than 215°F. You can't use that measurement for anything useful. 215°F underhood temps at a rest isn't the end of the world. It's not great, but nothing I would worry too much about as long as your air filter isn't sucking in air from right next to the turbine housing.
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