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Thread: VE-T blogger, dynos, movies, and pics.

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Posts: 251-260 of 277
2008-10-28 22:54:48
#251
Originally Posted by Coheed
A gt3076r is what I am using, and there is a lot less heat generated by a gt30 turbo when compared to a t28 sized turbo. It moves more air, but that doesn't mean anything. An engine will detonate at peak torque. A 300lb ft of torque engine running at 8k will have less chance of detonating than a 400lb ft of torque engine running at 6k. Higher revs, and the chance of detonation goes down. I am not revving that high, but I am also not doing that much torque. I think my max torque even on 24psi was around 350. Horsepower doesn't cause detonation. Neither does boost, or airflow. So you can't really say that I am detonating on 20psi on pump gas based on the boost I am running. Or the turbo. Or the gas.

My old SE ran a disco potato on it at 18psi daily for years. The guy I sold it too ran 87 octane in it with bkr6e plugs. That was a stock bluebird! There is a big dyno meet tonight. I am going to show up and do some pulls on 20psi to see if I can read any detonation on the plugs.


k................I never actually said boost, HP, blah blah makes your engine detonate. Why even bring up EVO's in the first place when they are built for 23lbs, the way their head are designed, piston design, ect...So lets get away from cars that don't matter. What we actually dealing with is what is going on with your tuning system and how you can manipulate it. Which you can't touch your timing on a JWT.
Side note......Dyno Altitude corrections are for naturally aspirated engines, NOT turbocharged cars.
So since you are actually making around 375whp...a 13.3 @114 makes sense..
Your 442 is using a 18% correction factor.....Why? So You are actually pushing 375 @24lbs on a VE with a GT30.....and nothing is wrong.......sounds good. I'll be done its not my car. Not my tune, Im trying to get you to think a little and check your stuff before you fall off the edge into a failed engine.
2008-10-28 23:50:45
#252
Coheed what is you best 1/4 mile time and was that time on slicks or drag radials.


My friends SER with A DET motor, S4 cams, Aluminum flywheel, JWT ECU, Z32 MAF, 740cc injs and 3 inch exhaust makes 360 WHP and 330 Lb Ft Torque at 17 PSI with a GT28RS runs 11.8 @ 122 MPH. This is done on 24.5 x 8.5 x 15 in slicks.

Alot of times slow 1/4 mile times can be the drivers error. He was running 12.3 @ 118 MPH shifting the car at 75000 RPms all the time. Then he called me from the track and I told him to shift the car @ 7000 RPMs after looking at his dyno and that got him down into the 11s.

The problem after 7000 RPMs the power was falling off so he was wating time traveling the xtra 500 RPMs in 2nd and 3ed gear. So by shifting earlier at 7000 RPMs it allowed him to get into the next gear which gave him more track to be in the meat of his power band longer where he had more torque.
2008-10-29 07:28:43
#253
.......
2008-10-29 07:51:35
#254
Originally Posted by Coheed
I hope I answered all of your questions, but please, do not post unless you have constructive comments or suggestions. I am open to all of your suggestions, and I don't mean to come off overly defensive, but some people here have no concept of how elevation affects a motor. There are guys up here tuning on 91 octane on evos running upwards of 24psi without issue. Stock evo X runs 23psi. This just goes to show that every motor is different, and very few people have pushed the VE. When I drive to sea level I will make sure to turn the boost down. Thanks.


FIRST SUGGESTION!!! GET AN AEM DUH!!!!!!!!!! SECOND!! you and Ben should tune next to a wall and listen for knock!!! WORKS GREAT I heard..

As for bringing one of our cars!?!?!??! Which one, The 600whp through an auto KA-T 240sx, 1266whp TT mustang, 880AWHP EVO, 800WHP CIVC, 700WHP GT500..... UMM got a 63 Plymonth Savoy too if you want..... YOU CHOOSE!!! Oh yea and as soon as we get the clutch back from spec the soon to be 600whp NX2000.

As for cold air making boost go down that is a pile of s h i t..... Boost always goes up because the air is more dense!! Duh you should know that being that you are using a 18% correction factor on a dyno jet!

Also FYI spark plug gaps don't get smaller with time they actually believe it or not get larger!
2008-10-29 08:07:48
#255
........
Originally Posted by boostin50
FIRST SUGGESTION!!! GET AN AEM DUH!!!!!!!!!! SECOND!! you and Ben should tune next to a wall and listen for knock!!! WORKS GREAT I heard..

As for bringing one of our cars!?!?!??! Which one, The 600whp through an auto KA-T 240sx, 1266whp TT mustang, 880AWHP EVO, 800WHP CIVC, 700WHP GT500..... UMM got a 63 Plymonth Savoy too if you want..... YOU CHOOSE!!! Oh yea and as soon as we get the clutch back from spec the soon to be 600whp NX2000.

As for cold air making boost go down that is a pile of s h i t..... Boost always goes up because the air is more dense!! Duh you should know that being that you are using a 18% correction factor on a dyno jet!

Also FYI spark plug gaps don't get smaller with time they actually believe it or not get larger!


Such anger
2008-10-29 17:37:54
#256
Originally Posted by boostin50
FIRST SUGGESTION!!! GET AN AEM DUH!!!!!!!!!! SECOND!! you and Ben should tune next to a wall and listen for knock!!! WORKS GREAT I heard..

As for bringing one of our cars!?!?!??! Which one, The 600whp through an auto KA-T 240sx, 1266whp TT mustang, 880AWHP EVO, 800WHP CIVC, 700WHP GT500..... UMM got a 63 Plymonth Savoy too if you want..... YOU CHOOSE!!! Oh yea and as soon as we get the clutch back from spec the soon to be 600whp NX2000.

As for cold air making boost go down that is a pile of s h i t..... Boost always goes up because the air is more dense!! Duh you should know that being that you are using a 18% correction factor on a dyno jet!

Also FYI spark plug gaps don't get smaller with time they actually believe it or not get larger!


The boost dropped because of the boost controller I am using. Please, if you cannot realize that a bleed-type boost controller changes boost based on temp, then don't argue about it. And don't turn my thread into a giant bash session. This is my experience with this type of boost controller. Also, the dyno is a dynojet. In which case, whatever correction factor you use, hp is hp. A ZO6 does 450+whp on a dynojet. Oh wait, I killed one from a roll. I guess That makes my 375whp 2800lb car faster than a 450+whp car that weighs 3200lbs. I guess my buddy's SS with 525 all motor hp isn't really 525 because I beat him too. So 375whp. That's fine. however you measure it, whatever the correction factor, it's faster from a roll than these cars???

You saw the video of the CTSV right? Watch it. He made 460whp last night, and his best dyno to date is 469whp. I passed him like nothing!

every car we dyno up here has standard correction. Bring your "600" whp NX2k up here and see what it does uncorrected.

As far as the plugs go, I have had the gap close up numerous times. The heating a cooling cylces of the engine cause anealing and a weakening of the metal.
2008-10-29 17:46:26
#257
Originally Posted by sniper571
k................I never actually said boost, HP, blah blah makes your engine detonate. Why even bring up EVO's in the first place when they are built for 23lbs, the way their head are designed, piston design, ect...So lets get away from cars that don't matter. What we actually dealing with is what is going on with your tuning system and how you can manipulate it. Which you can't touch your timing on a JWT.
Side note......Dyno Altitude corrections are for naturally aspirated engines, NOT turbocharged cars.
So since you are actually making around 375whp...a 13.3 @114 makes sense..
Your 442 is using a 18% correction factor.....Why? So You are actually pushing 375 @24lbs on a VE with a GT30.....and nothing is wrong.......sounds good. I'll be done its not my car. Not my tune, Im trying to get you to think a little and check your stuff before you fall off the edge into a failed engine.


You are wrong sir. Here's why. You may live at sea level and don't understand. So let me clarify it for you. The atmospheric pressure at this altitude is 12.8 psi right now. Sea level is around 14.7. That is almost 2psi right there. Your wastegate opens based on an atmospheric reference/pressure differential. If you don't know what this means, learn how a wastegate works.

Not only is pressure vastly different, but oxygen concentrations at this altitude are a lot less as well. Because Oxygen is heavy! Take a trip on pike's peak if you don't believe me. That 600whp Nx will have maybe 350whp by the time you reach the top. But elevation doesn't matter? Your argument makes no sense.

There is no tricking a dynojet. It bases its numbers on acceleration. I may only have 375whp, but I accelerate like a 440whp car? lmao. The corrections are correct! That's why dynojet rules! I can redyno in florida and get the same numbers. Or anywhere else in the country.
2008-10-29 17:52:10
#258
Originally Posted by Andreas
Coheed what is you best 1/4 mile time and was that time on slicks or drag radials.


My friends SER with A DET motor, S4 cams, Aluminum flywheel, JWT ECU, Z32 MAF, 740cc injs and 3 inch exhaust makes 360 WHP and 330 Lb Ft Torque at 17 PSI with a GT28RS runs 11.8 @ 122 MPH. This is done on 24.5 x 8.5 x 15 in slicks.

Alot of times slow 1/4 mile times can be the drivers error. He was running 12.3 @ 118 MPH shifting the car at 75000 RPms all the time. Then he called me from the track and I told him to shift the car @ 7000 RPMs after looking at his dyno and that got him down into the 11s.

The problem after 7000 RPMs the power was falling off so he was wating time traveling the xtra 500 RPMs in 2nd and 3ed gear. So by shifting earlier at 7000 RPMs it allowed him to get into the next gear which gave him more track to be in the meat of his power band longer where he had more torque.


My best 1/4 mile time is 13.3. My best trap speed is 120. I am running 205/55r15 Fuzion HRi tires. They are all-seasons. I haven't gotten to run slicks yet. I am guessing mid 11s with slicks. My powerband is really peaky too, so if I shift sooner i lose time.

Last night I made 411whp on 20psi pump. I had 3 people listening right next to the motor for any detonation and not one heard anything but a smooth pull. I made 419whp last time on 20psi with a more aggressive fuel ratio. I richened her up to be safe a couple months ago. I used to be around 12.4 or so, but now I am about 11.5, richening up to 10.8 by redline.
2008-10-29 18:11:57
#259
Originally Posted by Coheed

Last night I made 411whp on 20psi pump. I had 3 people listening right next to the motor for any detonation and not one heard anything but a smooth pull. I made 419whp last time on 20psi with a more aggressive fuel ratio. I richened her up to be safe a couple months ago. I used to be around 12.4 or so, but now I am about 11.5, richening up to 10.8 by redline.


Good Christ.
2008-10-29 19:48:24
#260
10.8 is pretty damn rich
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