Thread: B14 de+t not getting spark

Maybe you could just have the board swapped over to a different ECU? I'm not a fan of jwt ecus, blanket tuning isn't very good, but if that's all ya got then it is what it is. I'd def save up for something you can tune or have tuned in real time

Damn, that's nuts you had to go through all that to find the sources of these problems. Seems you were given red herring after red herring, and two bad ECUs makes it a miracle you figured it out.

There's going to be a way forward. Time to think...

Yeah. I wrote jwt an email to see. For now i have it running in ag20 ecu with stock maf, 370cc injectors and a safc to try and dial it in a little bit. I have an aem wideband. With no alterations it was running 10 afr. Lol.

259/370 = 70%, so i pulled 30% (28.9 to be exact) and i got the idle afr at 14.7. I know this isn't a real solution but it might be good enough to at least be able to break this motor in. I'll have to do some adjusting under load and try not to get into boost for the break in anyway.

I need to clean up the wideband sensor cause i believe i fouled it out. Started randomly going crazy lean and scared me. It won't read anymore so I'm assuming the pig rich condition fouled it out.

Motor sounds decent though, so I'm in a little better mood about the whole thing. I just wanted a fun weekend car. I don't care about how much power it makes. I honestly just wanted to run a det maf with 370 and a det ecu, but there's no such obd 2 thing. I have the obd1 ecu just sitting so i might just swap the car to obd1. It's a 95 so it's a very primitive obd2 anyway

Do you have a suggestion for an ecu i should be saving for? I'm not a tuner by any means, but I'm also on a tight budget for these types of things.

My thought process was jwt ecu with a safc to fine tune little bits here and there.

Believe it or not, stock idle A/F ratio is anywhere between 12.2:1 and 12.8:1. And it really does take this kind of rich mixture to get these engines to idle properly. So take that into consideration.

That's good info. I was just going off the math and it seemed to get me very close to stoich so i figured it was close. I'm planning on being on the rich side of things anyway. Like i said, i don't care about the hp numbers, just looking for fun.

I cleaned off the lambda and it read for a bit then went full tilt reading lean. I left the adjustment numbers where they were and let the engine get up to temp. I need to adjust the timing just a wee Lil bit and i have some other stuff i need to mess with. But it's a step in the right direction for sure.

It got up to temp pretty decently then i realized i pulled the fan relay in my trouble shooting phase(s). Shut the car down and put the relay back in. Started right back up and the fans kicked in. I'm not sure if i should make them pushers or pullers. They are in front of the rad and pulling cool air thru and then blowing onto the turbo mani seems to be better, but that's just my opinion with no data. Lol

I might need to add a restrictor in the oil feed or coolant feed. I'm not sure if it's just a decade of crud cooking off inside and out or if there is some "blowby" in the turbo itself. But it was smoking for pretty much the whole time. Cooking like a grill. A bit of excess fumage out the exhaust as well. But it had a bliwn head gasket and it's been sitting for a year.

I need to go on some actual drives before i can make any judgment calls on the "smoke".

Moving air from the front of the car through the radiator into the engine bay is certainly the desired flow direction.

No restrictor needed or desired for the coolant feed to the turbo. Conversely a restrictor for the oil feed is certainly required, and sounds like you don't have one?

I have one in the factory turbo banjo at the front of the motor. I meant i might need a smaller restrictor. I think the super long drill bit i had to make was .150" and the orifice in the banjo bolt was around 1/16"(iirc). I matched what nissan did on the avenier i stole the parts from. So now come to think of it, I should be good. Lol

I need to fab the lower bracket for the oil cooler. Decide if i want to finish the lathe work on the bump steer kit. Bleed the clutch slave. Fill the trans. Open air calibrate the lambda.
And in sure there's some other stuff i need to do.

Then Perhaps a long awaited test drive

I'm an analytical type guy, most of the time when I'm posting I'm really just thinking out loud. You guys have been very helpful in your responses to my thoughts, whether they be confirm or deny. Lol

Nismotronic is a good option, infact I think he has some new ones available. There's also Nistune and I think you can actually get obd2 nistunes