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Thread: B14 de+t not getting spark

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Posts: 11-18 of 18
2025-02-23 03:28:42
#11
That's not a bad idea. I'll give that a shot and report back on what i find.
2025-02-23 13:29:32
#12
Checked that and the 98 seems to be the same. I connected the extra dizzy (out of the motor) with the key on and spun it. Pos blk/wht & ground blue (those seem to be the signal wires after unwrapping a bit of the harness) when i spin the extra dizzy by hand i get varying voltages up and down which would tell me the cas is sending the signals out. I guess the next step is to look up the ecu pinout and see if the ecu is receiving them....

This doesn't make any sense, I've swapped many motors into this car and have never had this issue. I'm trying to narrow it down to stuff I've changed, but that's just about everything and none of them would be spark specific (i don't think)
2025-02-24 18:29:31
#13
Are the injectors firing?
2025-02-25 13:16:34
#14
So i got spark. My fuel injector plug had a bent pin. Got that fixed. I can hear the injectors clicking when i spin the dizzy by hand. I tried carb cleaner to start and still nothing.

I'm going to try some more stuff tonight. Confirm the inj are spraying, but the no nothing on even carb cleaner makes me think it's not the issue.

I'm gonna pull the vc again when i can and spin the motor by hand. What if just maybe the tappets are shit and not opening the valves, just compressing themselves? I can smell gas when I'm trying to crank, and i do have spark after all, I'm thinking it's gotta be no air.

I'll also do a compression test before i mess with anything. I put new rings in making sure to follow the oem rotation specs. It seems like it has good comp though. I initially started the motor with no plugs so i could confirm oil pressure and it launched the plug wires i was using as dust shields....
2025-02-25 21:44:52
#15
OK, so i did the comp test, got between 150 and 175 on all cylinders. I pulled the vc and confirmed the valves are opening and closing with the cam.

I did notice that there was an air moving sound when rotating the motor by hand. I'm not sure where it's coming from, if that's normal, or idk. I could smell the carb cleaner from my tests last night on the plugs. I could also smell fuel when i was doing the compression test. I'm still going to pull the rail eventually and confirm they're all spraying.

Only other test i can think of is to disconnect the intercooler pipe at the tb and just see what happens. Even without a maf it should still at least do something.
2025-02-25 22:28:21
#16
I have no clue anymore. I disconnected the intake at the tb and sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner and tried with the open tb. Still absolutely nothing. I even tried the stock ecu like that just to see. Nothing. Like it's not even trying. I confirmed mechanical timing is correct. Firing order is correct.

If it were a fuel issue the carb cleaner would have done something. If it were an air issue, disconnecting the intake should have done something. I guess I'm back to spark??? I even put the old plugs back in just to see. Not one thing.
2025-02-25 22:31:30
#17
Originally Posted by zero1dhd
OK, so i did the comp test, got between 150 and 175 on all cylinders. I pulled the vc and confirmed the valves are opening and closing with the cam.

I did notice that there was an air moving sound when rotating the motor by hand. I'm not sure where it's coming from, if that's normal, or idk. I could smell the carb cleaner from my tests last night on the plugs. I could also smell fuel when i was doing the compression test. I'm still going to pull the rail eventually and confirm they're all spraying.

Only other test i can think of is to disconnect the intercooler pipe at the tb and just see what happens. Even without a maf it should still at least do something.


the air woosh sound is pretty normal, its likely just air exiting the exhaust. have you tried holding the gas pedal all the way to the floor then turning the ignition on then crank it? basically a "clear flood" mode. and double check the firing order for shits an giggles.. if its getting air fuel an spark something should be happening
2025-02-25 23:58:46
#18
Haven't "floored" it, but I always throttle it like an old carb'd car when i start a new motor install. The pump has to fill the lines and whatnot and get it all to normal. But this motor isn't doing a single thing to try and start. Just cranks and cranks. It's honestly the healthiest crank I've put together. That's why this is so baffling.

When i get a chance, I'm going to investigate the wire harness that used to go under the upper rad support. I had to move it when i moved the heat exchanger and rad more forward to make room for the slim fans. I don't think i damaged anything and i also don't think there are any "important for starting " wires in there but who knows.

Only other thing I've found was the injector sub harness issue with the bent pin. I fixed that and confirmed continuty on both sides of the plug. I still need to remove the upper intake to get the rail out so i can confirm spray.

Mechanical timing is #1 tdc, exhaust dowel pin at 12 and intake pin at 10. #1 lobes are at about 11 and 1. 20 pins between dots on the gears. Dizzy - top is 1, bottom is 4, rad side 3' and firewall side 2. I checked it against the 98 and all the info i could find including the stamped #s on the cap.

I was able to get spark yesterday with a spare dizzy plugged in and spinning it by hand, plug grounded. I then put that dizzy in the motor and still nothing.

I agree, something should be happening. Even if it were a little something it would at least give me a clue where to investigate. So much time and money into this build
Last edited by zero1dhd on 2025-02-26 at 00-02-20.
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