Thread: B14 de+t not getting spark

I finally got my de+t all put together and it cranks just fine but isn't getting spark. I tried 2 different distributors and still nothing. If i have the dizzy plugged in but not in the engine with the key on, spinning it by hand kicks the fuel pump on so its sending some sort of a signal. With the dizzy installed (or not) and turning the motor over i don't get spark with the plug grounded.

I've gone over all my wiring and grounds but can't find anything wrong. The car started just fine before i blew the hg and decided it was time to build the turbo motor. I even tried putting the stock ecu in (instead of the jwt) to confirm the ecu isn't the issue.

I'm at a loss. It seems like it's some sort of electrical issue but i can't for the life of me figure it out. Please help.

Are you getting power to the "power transistor" or whatever it's called? The thing that switches power to the coil? It has 3 wires going to it (power, ground, and the signal from the ECU)...
That's the thing I'd look at first. And maybe use it for testing if it is properly powered and grounded. You should be able to pass it +12V (I think, but PLEASE double check me there) to the signal wire and see spark from whichever plug the ignition rotor is facing.

Otherwise, I like your checks with the distributor/CAS free-floating so you don't have to crank the engine to perform lots of good tests.

I know what you're talking about but i don't think b14s have those. I could be wrong (and maybe that's my issue) but i don't recall ever seeing one. The avenier i got the turbo stuff of had one but this is a low port with the +t stuff added on with an obd2 jwt ecu

Ahh, my bad. The B14s have this thing built into the distributor/CAS itself. I should have paid more attention to your signature.

Let me think about what else might be good diagnostics to do. In the meantime, do you have access to the FSM? That has some good diagnostics steps for no spark I'm sure.

I should also note that i had to remake the upper rad support. I needed to move the rad and friends more forward. I ended up routing the harness (that goes under the support) so it's in front of the heat exchanger for the a/c. I was careful when i moved the harness around but are there any wires in that harness that might cause this issue?

I've tried 3 different dizzys - 1 from the car when it was running, 1 i bought as a back up, and one borrowed from the running 98. There is some other "thing" causing it to not get spark.

Are the fuel injectors actuating?
I'm wondering if the ECU is getting RPM signal from the CAS...

How can i test the injectors actuating? While keeping in mind is a low port so getting the rail/ injectors out is a royal pita.

I did spin the dizzy by hand which kicked the pump on, so i would assume there is some sort of a signal being relayed

To hopefully help more....
B14 dizzy is two plugs one bigger with 6 wires and one smaller with 2. Doing this test with my probe - key ON

To to bottom
wht/ black - neg reading (no probe)
Larger black - neg reading (no probe)
Blue - neg reading (no probe)
Blk/wht - NO reading ????? Edit: came back with the key off and I'm getting a neg reading on the probe
Wht/red - pos reading - prob pos / kicks the fuel pump on
Blk? (Hard to tell) - neg reading (no probe)

Back side smaller plug
Both green and black probe pos, nothing happens when i send 12v their way...

I hope this helps you help me. It took me way too long to build this car for it to just sit here bumming me out.... lol

Also if it helps at all.... jwtOBD2 ecu tuned for n62 and 550cc cc inj. I used the maf wiring for dummies thread to wire it up. I also had to extend the o2 sensor wires. All wire connections soldered and shrink wrapped. If there were any issues with those, i don't think it would be a no spark condition, just a run like dog poopoo condition. Even if i had a "moment" and fubarred the timing, id still get spark albeit at the wrong "time" .

Didn't want to edit again... blk/wht is giving a poor reading to ground on the continuity tester. From what I've read, i think this is the signal wire, but I'm not 100% sure. If that's the case, do i get the joy of tracking down a faulty wire?

Edit: every wire gives continuity readings to ground. Some good, some not so good..... i don't think that can be right, can it?

maybe run those tests on the 98 to cross-reference ?