How far can I drive with my turbo like this...
I'll ask my question then tell you how my lovely day has gone... lol
Would it be safe for my turbo to drive about 5 miles WITHOUT the elbow on?
As in 5 bolts for the 5 bolt flange are in my pocket, downpipe is in the trunk. I need to take it to my exhaust guy.
So today has been yet again a fun filled mini adventure of OMGWTF is going on here BIG adventure of learning the SR20 and ALSO turbo chargers lol
To recap, 2 months ago I had a full turbo back 3" exhaust installed, 3 hours later... puffs of smoke never seen before, learned about turbo seals lol... only 3 days later, exhaust leak... but no, not a gasket... not with my luck, header cracked @ collector, return to shop and then realize the flex joint that was supposed to be there WAS NOT... installer missed it (I trust the guys, miscommunication and it was missed)... flex joint added, header welded... I was on my way. Few days later the thought crossed my mind that maybe with the added weight of the 3" pipe and being the flex joint only really has so much "flex" that maybe I should add a support rod from the block to the turbo housing (my header loops up then down to the turbo)... my worry being that being FWD and so EVERY gear change (soft or hard) the inertia of the entire exhaust would transfer directly to the header (flange actually ) that weekend I changed my oil, saw how I could/would add a support, no time that day... 2 days later EXHAUST LEAK... this time, #4 cyl header tube cracked at the flange... by the end of the day full circle crack... So I'm pissed but have a GREAT IDEA... I ALSO HAVE A GTIR Exhaust manifold!!!
HOWEVER before I started pulling headers and manifolds I paused because that damn James Bond get away smoke screen whenever I decelerate! So now I really kinda have a project... so after much debate but also every days more smoke I decide to just get another T25 and get this mess all "right" first, then consider upgrades... well not so easy in reality lol. Turns out my original turbo was a TB2210 I think its called, its a infant turbo from like an 89 300x TT (but I only got 1 T lol) so now then it turns out my simple "Just get another T25" turns into a mini upgrade after all...
SO today was the day, I have my GTIR manifold all cleaned and ready, drove all over everywhere and fetched my gaskets, pulled out my tap set to mount actuator after reclocking... and it's go time, 17yo home from school... and we're off, pulled header, pulled turbo, start reassembling after a snack... everything looks good, wow this GTIR manofold puts the turbo so much closer to the block... start lining all up for reclock... OH CRAP... my New DP is not going to work at all... it's a RWD and the 3 bold flange literally is so close to the where the block and oil pan meet that pipe cannot come up to it (motor in the way)... so great... plan B, wait I dont have a plan B...
Long story shorter here's the conclusion... Now I am stuck but with these options, Still use the...
HEADER (PROs) DP literally lines up PERFECT to turn the pipe up with a 3 bolt flange to bolt to the DP... Header is drilled for my EGT guage, easier install due to spacing. (CONs) Cracked, must fab support brace.
GTIR manifold (PROs) Been told it performs well, STRONG, both in design and requiring no other support bars, easier charge pipe routing options... (CONs) harder to install due to tight spacing, DP will not work as is, no port for EGT guage.
So my current plan is as follows, Install GTIR manifold, re clock compressor, hook up all the lines, and my hopes are that the shop will be able to cut the 3 bolt flange off (because it is whats hitting the block just enough) cut off high up (close the turbo) as possible before it begins to spread to the 5 bolt... and weld a V-Band on, then from there hopefully they'll have room to drop 3" pipe and tie into the rest of the exhaust.
SO again I ask, will the turbo, or basically the exhaust propeller... be ok driving a close 3 to 5 miles? or will the fan be at risk?
and lastly... do you agree with my coice of using the GTIR manifold over the Header?
Would it be safe for my turbo to drive about 5 miles WITHOUT the elbow on?
As in 5 bolts for the 5 bolt flange are in my pocket, downpipe is in the trunk. I need to take it to my exhaust guy.
So today has been yet again a fun filled mini adventure of OMGWTF is going on here BIG adventure of learning the SR20 and ALSO turbo chargers lol
To recap, 2 months ago I had a full turbo back 3" exhaust installed, 3 hours later... puffs of smoke never seen before, learned about turbo seals lol... only 3 days later, exhaust leak... but no, not a gasket... not with my luck, header cracked @ collector, return to shop and then realize the flex joint that was supposed to be there WAS NOT... installer missed it (I trust the guys, miscommunication and it was missed)... flex joint added, header welded... I was on my way. Few days later the thought crossed my mind that maybe with the added weight of the 3" pipe and being the flex joint only really has so much "flex" that maybe I should add a support rod from the block to the turbo housing (my header loops up then down to the turbo)... my worry being that being FWD and so EVERY gear change (soft or hard) the inertia of the entire exhaust would transfer directly to the header (flange actually ) that weekend I changed my oil, saw how I could/would add a support, no time that day... 2 days later EXHAUST LEAK... this time, #4 cyl header tube cracked at the flange... by the end of the day full circle crack... So I'm pissed but have a GREAT IDEA... I ALSO HAVE A GTIR Exhaust manifold!!!
HOWEVER before I started pulling headers and manifolds I paused because that damn James Bond get away smoke screen whenever I decelerate! So now I really kinda have a project... so after much debate but also every days more smoke I decide to just get another T25 and get this mess all "right" first, then consider upgrades... well not so easy in reality lol. Turns out my original turbo was a TB2210 I think its called, its a infant turbo from like an 89 300x TT (but I only got 1 T lol) so now then it turns out my simple "Just get another T25" turns into a mini upgrade after all...
SO today was the day, I have my GTIR manifold all cleaned and ready, drove all over everywhere and fetched my gaskets, pulled out my tap set to mount actuator after reclocking... and it's go time, 17yo home from school... and we're off, pulled header, pulled turbo, start reassembling after a snack... everything looks good, wow this GTIR manofold puts the turbo so much closer to the block... start lining all up for reclock... OH CRAP... my New DP is not going to work at all... it's a RWD and the 3 bold flange literally is so close to the where the block and oil pan meet that pipe cannot come up to it (motor in the way)... so great... plan B, wait I dont have a plan B...
Long story shorter here's the conclusion... Now I am stuck but with these options, Still use the...
HEADER (PROs) DP literally lines up PERFECT to turn the pipe up with a 3 bolt flange to bolt to the DP... Header is drilled for my EGT guage, easier install due to spacing. (CONs) Cracked, must fab support brace.
GTIR manifold (PROs) Been told it performs well, STRONG, both in design and requiring no other support bars, easier charge pipe routing options... (CONs) harder to install due to tight spacing, DP will not work as is, no port for EGT guage.
So my current plan is as follows, Install GTIR manifold, re clock compressor, hook up all the lines, and my hopes are that the shop will be able to cut the 3 bolt flange off (because it is whats hitting the block just enough) cut off high up (close the turbo) as possible before it begins to spread to the 5 bolt... and weld a V-Band on, then from there hopefully they'll have room to drop 3" pipe and tie into the rest of the exhaust.
SO again I ask, will the turbo, or basically the exhaust propeller... be ok driving a close 3 to 5 miles? or will the fan be at risk?
and lastly... do you agree with my coice of using the GTIR manifold over the Header?