Originally Posted by se200
You keep saying you didn't touch anything but the title of this thread says iacv/AAC replacement. In my book replacing the iacv/AAC is touching something. So to clear things up, did you or did you not remove and replace the iacv?
If so that is the factor of change and should be the first route of correction. Like I stated above this sounds like a vacuum/boost leak. You also stated you see no vacuum while cranking the engine over, you won't see full vac(19-20) but you should see some change. Double check your map sensor and it's source of vacuum.
You keep saying you didn't touch anything but the title of this thread says iacv/AAC replacement. In my book replacing the iacv/AAC is touching something. So to clear things up, did you or did you not remove and replace the iacv?
If so that is the factor of change and should be the first route of correction. Like I stated above this sounds like a vacuum/boost leak. You also stated you see no vacuum while cranking the engine over, you won't see full vac(19-20) but you should see some change. Double check your map sensor and it's source of vacuum.
You are right, i did change the iacv and the aac valve.
however in relation to vacuum lines and boost piping, and all that, NONE of that was touched. also nothing was touched in the calibration of the tune either, not one thing. and tunes done just change and settings just dont change themselves, so that can be ruled out imo.
simply put the iacv on and aav on and pushed it off the ramps that was it.
i mean like i said and i keep saying it, it just doesnt make sense because i was driving this car but like a week ago with no issues other than the iacv and aac but it never stopped the car from starting or idling, you just had to keep your foor on the gas a little till the idle caught up.
ive been going over every aspect of this engine and its easy because i know i didnt touch this or that, those can be ruled out easily.
the thing i thinking is i dont feel im getting enough spark, and the cap and rotor button have like 2k miles on them, so they are good.
so things i went over:
vacuum lines
boost piping
couplers
clamps
connections to ignitor
connections to coil
connections to distributor
connections to Map
Vacuum Line To Map
Connections to IACV
Connections to AAC vavle
Things i went over in AEM Sensor wise:
Map sensor
AIT sensor
TPS
Coolant Temp Sensor
Made sure all fuel injectors were all getting the same voltages
i Manually checked the Distributor rotated it around and checked to see if the fuel injectors pulsed
i think about just throwing the old iacv and aac on, but i dont see how that could make a difference the engine should still start and it should still be trying to fire the gas.
its really starting to look like its going to need to go to the performance shop which sucks because in going to get charged $90.00 a hour to basicly go over things ive already went over like compression,hoses,pipes,clamps ect ect ect. and you never really know if a shop is going to be legit and try and find the problem right away or if they are going to milk you, and like i said i already spend over 1k with tuning and fabrication work, i would have to have to shell out another 400-500.00 to figure out what is wrong with it. esp if its something stupid
Last edited by GT2871RBLUBIRD
on 2014-07-11
at 16-03-43.